Gobble Up Turkey

Tuesday 8th September

Lovran  to Opatija to Volosko and Return

The brain must have known we didn’t have an early start or the little glass of sticky wine is the greatest sleeping aid ever, as it was 830 before the eyes saw daylight.

No rush to get out so it was a leisurely breakfast with not another soul. In fact we think there are only two others here.

Took the opportunity to give the boots a clean in the hotel garden, which was under the watchful eye of mine host who is lovely but might suffer some form of cleaning obsessive condition. They are now spic and span ready to be packed away for Italy in a week or  more.

Todays walk was along a path built clinging the coast which takes in an area often described as the Croatian Riviera. It connects Lovran with the old port town of Volosko passing through the hyped up town of Opatija, it’s somewhere between 10-12 Kms.

The seas were a bit bumpier than yesterday and swirling around the rock beaches and the man made ones outside our hotel. Not a soul swimming other than a couple of seagulls.

It’s amazing the labyrinth of stairways that just lead town to a rocky cove for swimming. Some come off the path and other from private homes and hotels have cave like entrances under the walkway.

The walkway itself was built in late 1800 and named after famed leader Franz Josef. Above the walkway are an amazing array of villas which were built during reign of Austro- Hungarian government. They are truly amazing pieces of architecture. Some are simply opulent, others well kept and sadly some have fallen into states of disrepair. Most are now used as hotels and apartments. The demise was best illustrated by the Grand Hotel Belvedere, with its disarranged sign. flapping awnings and broken windows.

Some more modern ones with fancy pools and restaurants have been or are being built, so there must still be an appetite. Had an interesting chat with a local who suggested a German industrialist had purchased up to 50 homes, hotels and villas along the coast but had not done anything to renovate them.

There are two or three major marina’s with boats ranging from dinghies, to cruisers, yachts and big boys toys. Like in Novigrad there appears to be a pecking order where you moor. At one of the marina’s was a mini submarine. Would be one brave sailor who jumped into that contraption . There are also lots of tiny boat tie up areas.

The pathway itself is beautifully flat and well maintained and today it was surprisingly busy, especially around Opatija which in Aussie terms has a Gold Coast feel about it with cafes , expensive restaurants, souvenir shops, boat trip vendors plus a pop up market, with lots of knock offs being sold. It was definitely busier with younger tourists. One had an ornate shell roof.

The coastline is alive with sculptures and statues ranging from anchors to sea nymphs to politicians and crusty old seamen. I posed next to one and Jane didn’t quite check all aspects you might say.

Along with them is a Hollywood type walk of the stars celebrating the achievements of scientists, writers, industrialist and one particularly memorable tennis player Goran Ivanisevic and Massey Park Golf Lady President.

With so many opportunities to swim, but mostly in open water wondered how young kids were taught. We found a couple of pools which might have been ideal training grounds.

The weather turned a bit windier and whilst nobody was in the water getting wet the swell was hitting the path with a bit more strength and giving people a surprise shower.

There was a huge botanical garden getting lit up for the festive season and adjacent to it was an open air theatre / opera venue. Along the outside wall were paintings of famous people where a unique effect had been created by painting their eyes on smooth tiles and the rest on a roughened texture.

Most beaches had areas for chairs and umbrellas to be used, obviously at a cost. There was a little bit of price gouging going on with rates increasing fourfold as you moved along towards the ritzy areas. An umbrella and two chairs set you back about $A110 for the day. I might have gone for the towel on one of the few pebbly beaches.

Finally rounded the corner into Volosko and found a harbourside cafe where a nice squid ink pasta was washed down with another different Croatian beer.

Considered a return walk for at least 30 seconds before climbing several sets of stairs up into the old town and catch a very full and rapid bus back to Lovran, beating the rain by about 5 minutes.

Whilst sitting at the bus stop a military fighter proceeded to do a series of very low level aerobatics – not sure who he was trying to impress.

The rain did not stop so we did a bit of work on next few days plans and rested some weary bones.

Our evening stroll for a snack was in bucketing rain which continued until our head hit the pillow. Forecast say 50-70 mm over next few days whilst we are in Rijeka and Split.

Monday 7th October 2024

Buzet to Lovran

Today was essentially our last walk in the mountains as we finished by the sea and walk a coastal concrete path tomorrow to finish the Istrian part of our journey.

The same great breakfast was on offer, but unfortunately shared it with a rude and self indulgent Indian businessman who treated the staff disgracefully. I guess I lowered myself when I called him a pompous p…k and told his associate to teach him some manners.

I managed to console the staff and confirm they were doing a wonderful job and to ignore his comments.

Sadly breakfast left a sour taste in my mouth.

We packed up, lugged our bags downstairs for 3 flights and tossed them into the back of the transporter. Still trying to work out why bags are feeling heavier.

Then off we went down the one-way cobbled street squeezing past buildings and all of the small sedans parked at crazy angles to maximise space utilisation. There is no room for a local to have a people mover up in these top of the hill castle towns.

We headed off on a very windy highway to start with and then along an expressway( won’t ever complain about Sydney tolls again) before finding a snakes and ladders route to the top of the hill in the National Park at 1500 metres, with an amazing view down to and along the Croatian coast and over the island of Krk.

The walk started pretty serenely through some beech and fir forests on a wide track, above the clouds. Within about 10 minutes we saw two other hikers, who inevitably ended up the only humans we saw during the entire forest part of the walk. In fact other than them and a few birds the only other living thing we passed was a wild Shetland pony

With detailed walking notes and a myriad of directional signs navigation was pretty good- essentially read the book and look for the red dots.

Strangely for a walk that was described as flowing down through the forest, we spent most of first 30 minutes going up, until we reached a memorial for where partisan fighters had established a hospital during the war.

It turned out to be the turning point in elevation and signage as we levelled off through thick forest on very faint trails. Vasco with notes and old faithful GPS in hand and me as forward scout managed to keep us going in the right direction and downhill.

The track underfoot was pretty tough, with steep rocky patches ready to twist the ankle of the unwatchful and slippery to boot. We both managed to stay upright.

The thing about walking up here is the silence, as often the only thing you can hear is the beat of your heart. It’s a great place to clear the headspace.

We came across an amazing little country retreat on one of the rare patches of flat ground. It was a beautiful little hut with everything a city slicker could want- BBQ, hot water, outside dining, woodshed and even TV.

Started off again on some stony tracks which followed stone walls for quite a way- what reason they were there is anyone’s guess.

The trail got a bit steeper and there were some skinny paths with pretty severe drop offs, so not much time to look up and take in the view. As the track levelled a little after about 2.5 hours we got our first view of the sea.

Down some very steep rocky steps and out of the forest we came to our first bit of civilisation a town called Lovranska Draga. The first real flat spot for lunch was the local Bocce centre with what looked like its own bar and betting ring. Lunch was interspersed with an impromptu game of bocce using prickly Chestnut husks.

We thought that might have ended the steep part, but we’re wrong on several counts.

After a little geographical misadventure, resulting in us doing a lap of the town, the route took us uphill for more than a kilometre , albeit on a tarmac lane with great views of sea, mountains we had trodden and the old terraces of this once rural area.

There was a lovely hotel where you could lunch and soak in the view.

From there it was all downhill, geographically and physically. The trail essentially traversed the mountainside on old Roman footpaths, often between peoples houses. The houses were a mixture of old, renovated and brand new villas, the latter more often than not with pools. No matter what age they enjoyed amazing views in all directions.

Looking at all of this construction work, the lack of many old cars and the number of people with growing families, the economy is going pretty well.

Strangely we came across an abandoned school on the edge of the suburbs.

The Roman stairs turned into steep roads and concrete paths , winding between houses who all had a dog to welcome or ward you off. There was no lessening in the view and stops to take it in across all directions was frequent. It also gave the leg muscles a chance to stop twitching.

Then the miracle, flat ground and a road that stopped at the seaside. We had arrived in Lovran which is one end of the Croatian Riviera. What a quaint town with amazing grand villas, a coastal path that led to hotels , cafes and beaches which were mainly accessed by stairs.
Things were looking up with only 700 metres to go to our apartment.

Hotel was quite modern and run by the most helpful owner ever. Got the full Cook’s tour and finally found the comfort of a spacious 2 bedroom apartment, with balcony.

So some 6 hours after starting we finally had a chance to take off the boots, sit on the veranda and reflect on an amazing day and trip overall.

After a couple of hours testing we went to dinner, both doing great impressions of John Cleese’s Minister for Funny Walks. We enjoyed another great seafood meal and unlike us topped it off with a celebratory dessert- nothing like a semifredo and or a lava cake.

The one thing that has amused us here is the music. It’s a collection from the 40’s through to the 90’s all sung in English. The saving grace is you can sing along.

It was a similar wander home to finish with a slug of sticky wine and go to bed knowing – no boots, no map, no GPS, no notes and no sore muscles tomorrow.

Sunday 6th October 2024

Hum to Buzet

Woke up to get in early to wish Grandson happy 20th birthday, which he was celebrating in Bali. It seems every holiday we are now away for his birthday.

A sumptuous breakfast was served up in the gourmet restaurant, which was a bit of a waste on me with my hunger level still down. Good news is I haven’t lost my thirst.

It was a perfect day to be different  so we decided to do our walk in reverse which meant a 20km drive into the hills to start at the worlds smallest walled town Hum- small by size small by letters.

Arrived just as Mass for most of the 25 population finished and entered the town through two ornate brass doors. Popped into the church, which was as pretty as any visited in country Croatia. Lit a candle for two wonderful young people who are battling health issues and hoped the Big Fellow might lend a hand in their recovery.

Soon we were doing a tour of the town. It was essentially B and B’s, a souvenir shop and a rickety building for sale, with an interesting sign attached to a ‘needs work’ veranda.

The girl running the souvenir shop had the most eclectic selection of products ever,  ranging from the obligatory truffle related items ( a must in a region who produces the most white truffles in Europe)  right through to slinky ladies underwear. There again for sale was the oddly named beets, this time trying to be a little less offensive.

She must have been trained at McDonald’s with best upselling pitch we have experienced in Croatia. Went in with no intention to buy and came out with chocolates and biscuits we really didn’t need.

Finished the town visit pretty quickly with only one disappointment the bloody grafitti hooligans, I refuse to call them artists,  had ‘marked’ some wonderful old buildings. 

We decided that reading the track notes backwards might be difficult so we placed our faith in Maps.me, despite yesterday’s dilemma. 

We were soon on a stony downhill track headed for the town of Kotli, which looked very interesting having been totally abandoned in the 40’s.

The track was not used regularly by walkers, given the often thick undergrowth, and making a decision to go with a T-Shirt wasn’t the smartest. Guessing the people on bikes who had used it earlier were in leathers.

In a trip back to the road we came across a monument paying homage to St Cyril who developed the Cyrillic script which was the basis for many languages. The Russians still use it, with its numerous letters and accents over letters to give different meanings.

Back onto a wider track strewn with red and white tape and numbers. We presumed it was for cross country bike races  which are popular. Some of the spots they traverse are amazing. In a couple of spots our track had tapes blocking access, but we realised they were crossing points. No noise so race  may already have concluded. 

The only two noises were baying hounds and pops in the distant hills – probably hunting- and water rushing down the river. Whilst no obvious hunting nearby we did come across a stand with a very rickety ladder which hopefully the hunters  scaled with rifles uncocked.

Soon back out on a tarmac road and reached Kotli. A bridge crossing had us in a town where there was only a closed restaurant and a myriad of well restored building, most being used as B and B’s. 

It was an old mill town up until 40’s, abandoned and now rediscovering itself right in a pristine forest area surrounded by waterfalls, walking tracks and rock slabs suitable for climbing.

Wandered around town before proceeding down the track and popping into a couple of water falls, both with pools suitable for a dip. I was considering taking the plunge but upon seeing a German guy go in before me I decided one shrunken pecker show was enough.

The river had calmed down considerably since recent floods, but debris well above the waterline and clogged on bridges showed the extent of flooding. It’s amazing considering the Amiens does run dry at times.

The trip continued following what was now a meandering river and there were 3 or 4 boot dipping crossings on roughly strewn rocks posing as stepping stones. We both got across them unscathed. 

The track levelled out and dropped to the floor of the gorge where both sides had climbers scaling or getting prepared to scale cliffs of varying difficulty. There were guys up about 200 meters just hanging there making no progress. They were dangling like the proverbial Xmas decoration, which bought a smile to the decoration Queen.

The cliffs had click on points scattered in all directions to cater for the different classes of climbers. They are wonderfully athletic  and you are willing them on to make the top and sharing their disappointment when they lose grip and bounce back to their latest connection.

Out of the valley on flat ground alongside the river with one destination in sight- the craft brewery. Like a pair of pit ponies the speed quickened, as did our resolve only to be disappointed by a sign – Opening Hours 4-8. At 230 we weren’t waiting around and at a much slower clip we trod the road to the top of the hill a kilometer away. 

No brewery, but two beers and a country platter later we were happy. 

I am now officially King of The Trails

After a leisurely hour or so it was off to dinner in the restaurant to not only dine but to confirm whether that in the first week of November an omelette comprising 2000 eggs and 10kg of truffles was baked in the town to celebrate St Mary. 

Twas no urban myth, they even invited us back to the carpark in the middle of town to join the festivities on the day. 

Just one more mountain walking day before hitting the coast. Will miss the country hospitality and magnificent scenery, if not the mud.

Sat 5th October 2024

Motovun to Buzet

Packed up early, but not early enough to beat the horde of bus travellers who had taken over most of the dining room.

Dining room etiquette is fascinating at breakfast with a soirée fit for a royal on offer raising the questions

• do I fill my plate with a bit of everything and not eat most of it
• Do I take the last egg
• Do I only take half of the remaining mushrooms
• Do I take enough food to feed an army and secret it into my bag to sustain me on the bus

I don’t think anyone in the queue before me said no to any of those questions. 

Perhaps it’s that mentality of I paid for breakfast so do what I want.

I dined on my cereal, toast and coffee and wasted no further energy trying to solve the conundrum.

A double ride this morning , one to the public carpark, where the breakfast bandits were straggling across the road to board their bus, oblivious to the traffic- perhaps it was a food coma.

Next trip was a 20 minute ride to thermal country where healing water bubbled out of springs and visitors soaked up the benefits. No time for soaking , we had a trail to conquer.

Our starting point was a crumbling bridge over the Mirna river for a walk along the riverside for the greater part of the day. The river was still flowing  quickly after all of the recent rain, having broken its banks several weeks ago.

After seeing the crack in the bridge I will never complain about potholes again.

The track started on a Roman road but soon become grass pathways along the river. The pristine conditions didn’t stay long with the track severely impacted by the recent flood ( about 1.5  metres above top of the bank when it happened ).

It was a fair bit of puddle hopping or slopping through water, sometimes ankle deep. At least it cleaned of all of the mud from yesterday.

The riverbank had been severely eroded and most of the vehicle crossings would not be useable.

We both had a few slip and slides, but only I hit the deck. Again pride was the major injury, though a metal container in my pocket gave me a bit of thigh cork- nothing a days end drink couldn’t fix.

The area is noted for animal life, caves and rock climbing. Animal could be heard but rarely seen; caves were abundant high up in the valley and we actually came across a female climber scaling what could best be described as a slab of rock.

Did not see another walker, but shared the trail with a host of trail bike riders, who were not doing the track much good.

The nearer we got to Buzet the clearer it became we were heading for another high hill finish.

Got a bit hungry so stopped at a Pirelli rated lunch spot – effectively a bunch of painted tyres on the edge of a park.

After lunch it was the usual slog up the stairs and roads to our hilltop restaurant. Flopped at the front bar and realised all of that mud had not disappeared. Being conscious of being a bit considerate we found a town fountain and gave the boots a scrub. 

I had a stark recollection as to why my balance was bad today- why buy some dimentia proof socks when you put them on the wrong foot.

A couple of frothies allowed us to celebrate the achievment and dull the pain. It was an interesting collection of drinks as the menu illustrated.

Unpacked, cleaned up and into the unheated pool- at least one of us got beyond 2 minutes. 

Refreshed, we did a lap of town soaking up the history and getting a birdseye view of where the trail will take us tomorrow. Some crumbling buildings, others well preserved and the usual town gate and one very narrow street.

Some people might be n trouble with the Strata Committee the way washing is hung out.

A gang of kids were happy playing games with a whole lot of kit a plumber had left around on a building site- simple fun well enjoyed. The plumber might not share that view on Monday when he returns to work.

Some people were doing early preparations for Halloween.

Took a seat in local bar, sucking in the drink and sunset before a lovely dinner in our hotel.

Friday 4th October 2024

Motovun to Kaldir and Return

Today we decided on what looked like the simple cross the valley walk to a winery, enjoy a tasting and then return through the vineyards to home, albeit with a very steep walk back up to the hotel.

Still struggling with a lurgi and low appetite and energy I picked through breakfast before kitting up the the day.

The easy part was leaving hotel and main square to head out the town gate. That was the first 50 metres done.

Nothing like starting the real walk with a nice downhill run on steep cobblestones to get the ankles and toes twitching- but at least we could see the township way off in the distance.

We wend our way through the suburbs – all three streets – before heading down towards the old railway.

On the way we passed a huge dog kennel with a lot of mixed breeds laying quietly , that was until we got near them. Strange thing with dogs here is that they are rarely seen as pets – they have two purposes finding truffles or finding wildlife for the hunters. It’s probably why cats are so prolific around the streets.

If the number of truffle shops is an indication they do a bloody good job. As for the hunting side we might find out more as we make our way through the menu to see if venison is available. We could hear a few baying in the distance and also heard a few gun pops. We had general instructions of ‘ in hunting season be sure you make lots of noise in the forest’. I guess yelling “oh s..t lost again and no more bloody mud” may have sufficed as no near misses.

We didn’t stay on the railway line very long we were either on tracks or wandering through the edges of vineyards. In both cases it was through mud which caked your boots and often you had to pull them out of boggy spots with a pop- hoping they stayed on.

Reached a decision point and when Jane deferred to the note – alas a couple of pages were missing. After a mild panic they were found crumpled in the guide holder.

Having notes didn’t make the going easier and we seemed to go around and up hills in a circuitous route to finally find the town of Kaldir. If it wasn’t for the winery there was not much else going on, other than a house with a lot of ribbons tied to gates , fences and vetsndah’s – so presumed it was a wedding.

Up into the winery to be told our booking was for yesterday, but with a crowd of 2 they managed to squeeze us in. Tried about 5 different wines,including the award winning Teran blend, which were all nice. Bought a sticky to have something to drink as an after dinner pleasure.

They were a small winery selling 160,000 bottles, including overseas markets . Got the full tour of the operation and met the winemaker, a young woman in her 30’s.

A bit of route checking before leaving and we thought we would defer to Maps.me and go off the notes to avoid the walk through an area where it was supposedly muddier than before.

A great call it wasnt, as we wandered through tracks with landslips, walked away from home on many occasions and still ended up in the mud. At one spot Jane’s boots were completed covered. The look on her face suggested a photo wasn’t a good choice.

We eventually found our way onto some solid footing we had trod on the outward journey and plodded our way up the stairs and cobbles to home.

The lesson – probably don’t change routes after 5 wines.

Got home before dark and time to change and wander around town in search of somewhere to dine, only to end up back in our hotel.

Thursday 3rd October 2024

Novigrad to Groznjan to Motovun

The local forecasters got it right with rain all night and the whole day to have constant falls up to 45mm.

When we had breakfast and then when collected to be taken to our high hill start the quizzical look on peoples faces said it all – ‘are you sure you don’t want a taxi all the way through’.

A 30 minute trip, during which the driver gave us a quick history lesson , gave us the opportunity to reconsider. We decided to walk the 18 Kms. Even though 2 other walkers quickly jumped into a cab and bolted when we got to our starting point.

The town of Groznjan has a deep history associated with artists and of course the truffle. Other than the supermarket it was truffle shops and galleries. It was also a town serviced by the now defunct Parenzana railway and had 3 miniature trains taking pride of place in the square. The Parenzana railway was destroyed by Mussolini so he had steel for weapons manufacture. We actually walked on parts of it today and scheduled to do similarly tomorrow.

Jane plonked herself in the church door way, to check directions, though I suspect she was looking for divine intervention. The town had a great view down into the valleys   if only you could see through the rain and clouds.

A lap of town was followed by a long haul up even higher and the first of many old houses being renovated by returning expats and foreigners. It was sad to see equally as many derelict, as families can’t afford to renovate.

Real estate isn’t cheap – a penthouse in Novigrad with no views was circa A$900k.

It was a view through drips off a soaked rain hat all day that that we enjoyed as we visited every town named after a Saint who I didn’t cover in my Bible studies classes. They were all quaint with only a few houses and the obligatory church.

Tracks ranged from tarmac roads to forest trails and muddy gravel roads. Other than the short cut that Jane spied, which was basically a creek bed that took and hour and three quarters to descend. 

We did stop for lunch in the pretty town of  Portole where we enjoyed a coffee and then a picnic in a cupola with magnificent views back to where we had started . It’s amazing that it’s 10 Kms from start to finish today by car- our trip is 18.

Lots more walking, including the aforementioned short cut, with not a lot of dialogue. Mused over what different structures were and where possible looked back to reflect where we had been. We also realised it was hunting season hence dogs barking and roosts spruced up.

We kicked a couple of mushrooms along the way which appeared in the middle of the track.

Finally reached the penultimate town of today Livade, which is famous for a resident finding the biggest ever truffle. Not surprisingly there was an international gourmet festival celebrating the truffle.

High in the hills was the castle town of Motovun whose claim to fame is it being the hometown of the Andretti racing car family. If he had a rallying background you could understand as the road wound its way up the hill and then into the castle area with its narrow cobblestone roads only wide enough for one car. The gates into the castle were barely wide enough for a car and when it’s full of Japanese tourists navigation is even more difficult. Perhaps it’s appropriate to mention that we did get a ride from the bottom of the hill- only dry part of walk all day.

Montobun does also hold mantle of best preserved medieval town in Croatia.

Found a great artistic impression of the hilltop city in our hotel.

The Kastel hotel is also a Wellness centre and hopefully after our walk tomorrow we will get a chance to use the facilities.

Room looked like a Chinese laundry after we hung everything out to dry and we were glad for the hot shower.

Feeling the effect of the lurgi Jane had passed on meant a little kip before a nice dinner.

Wednesday 2nd October 2024

Around Novigrad

Novigrad is far from a metropolis and as the hotel owner said 20 minutes and you will see the highlights. It’s not a worry as we were using it as a seaside relax before the next walk.

This is a tourist town where people come to relax in and on the water. Water was the theme for the day, with rain starting early, along with a fairly strong wind. 

With our gortex jackets on we headed off to the seafront. What a difference from yesterday’s millpond conditions, today waves were splashing up and over the waterside path. The change and shower stations were both getting inundated. Waves were even spraying up into some of the seaside restaurant outside terraces. At one spot water was rushing up stairways to the street.

The railings down into the water were similarly going under water. 

On the water things were equally different with yachts heading into sheltered coves and also seeking protection behind the breakwater. One yacht with 5 onboard tried to head out to see but had some sort of mishap and needed towing into the inner harbour.

Another brave yacht headed out to sea under motor and was last seen bobbing around like a cork in 1 to 2 metre swell.

We left the seaside and visited the local chapel and the bell tower. Right next door was a distillery famous for its brandy. It had a shop selling anything and everything alcoholic or related to truffles,the latter is a major industry in this area. Nothing like a brandy tasting at 10am to salve a sore throat.

They even had a crate of old fashioned soda symphons out the front

It’s amazing how the new and the old sit together , with brand new cars parked under ancient sundials. Decrepit old houses with satellite dishes, all mixed in with some houses renovated or waiting to be renovated. There was even a Lavender inspired hose.

The streets around this area were adorned with umbrellas which was ironic given the weather. With none ourselves and rain increasing we headed for a local cafe for a lingering coffee.

Even the Town Hall got into the decoration theme.

Warmed up we did a bit of shopping and looking for prospective dining spots.

Another walk around the port showed that it is a harbour of three groups, the fishermen, the recreational yachties/boaters and the serious big boys toys.

Whilst the trawling fleet looks aged some boats had great aids to assist with sorting the catch, including conveyor belts with species sorting shoots. 

With seasons end coming for tourism, many business have closed down and others are operating at limited capacity. It didn’t stop us finding a nice harbour side cafe for lunch. Given 40% of residents are Italian in this region we decided a Bruschetta and frappe would suffice. 

Had an interesting lunch mate in the form of a woman in her 80’s who walked in took a table and dined on a bowl of nuts and a cigarette- perhaps it is an alternative Mediterranean Diet. 

Having done the city tour we headed home to do some more planning for the next 6 days, where walking might be a little challenging with weather and what had been described as ‘very muddy tracks and hills that may need to be crossed in a switchback method’.

At around 530 the light rain turned into torrential rain with lightning and thunder. Rethinking best laid plans already.

Managed to find a break in the weather and head for seaside restaurant. Didn’t need to look for the way the noise of crashing waves was guide enough,

Found Leonardo’s and shared a meat platter for two and a local bottle of wine. Had a bit of banter with four guys who were on a Casino visit. Thought they were all German and committed the ultimate sin when one popped over for a chat and I said ‘are you all German ‘. I was quickly put in my place when he explained he was Austrian. At that stage I guessed it was the wrong time to mention the war.

Finished dinner with a complimentary Schapps or espresso – no guessing who opted for the former.

Lingered until the weather improved and puddle hopped our way home for another pre 900pm lights out.

Tuesday 1st October 2024

Lake Bled to Novigrad in Croatia

Well today was our last in Slovenia and we leave the rivers, lakes and waterfalls and head to coastal waters of Novigrad in the Gulf of Venice which sits in the Adriatic Sea.

Had our final breakfast and after a bit of a tiff with a very belligerent young waitperson over the collection of some medicine from the freezer,  we checked out and waited for our pre booked taxi to the railway station. 

With a train leaving at 1006 and a 20 minute trip to get there,  we were edgy at 935 when taxi had not arrived. Hotel staff confirmed they would be 5-10 minutes.

We had paced a hole in the Welcome mat by the time he arrived and thankful for his lead foot that got us there before time.

A bit of platform lotto and we were on our way to Ljubljana in a very modern and spacious train.

Followed the still fast flowing river through mountain valleys now tending to cropping , mainly corn, on rich soil. Looking at weather forecast that fast flow is likely for a while with 100mm plus forecast over next few days.

The closer we got to town the more industrial it got with cement works, paper mills and insulation manufacturers the easiest to identify.

The new car industry is booming over here. A train was parked at a station with at least 100 brand new Mercedes and VW’s on board, some covered in protective suits like an injured Black Caviar.

After an hour and a bit we arrived  and dragged our cases up to the main arrival hall to meet our driver who was transporting us to Novigrad, an hour and three quarters away.

A toilet break in the railway station proved one thing – world wide it’s the same drawings on the back of the door with only the names and phone numbers changing.

Finally found our driver and we were soon vying with the convoy of trucks in our VW to get in the fast lane and do 130 kph.

We were still flanked by mountains on both sides, unless we were burrowing though them in amazing tunnels.

The trucks all appeared to be heading to Koper one of the seaports of Slovenia.

It also appeared to have a Univetsity, where the 100 kids out front smoking, obviously were not studying health science.

Out of town the countryside was littered with olive trees being harvested. There was also some small vineyards, with not particularly well maintained vines. 

Crossed the border into Croatia with no checks and before we knew it we were in town doing a Chevy Chase around the roundabout multiple times before finding the street to our hotel.

Not in the realm of Lake Bled but it was very comfortable and the owner went above and beyond to help us.

A little snack lunch whilst we sat outside the laundromat and then it was home via the inner harbour packed with yachts and fishing boats. 

Couldn’t  see dinner being anything but seafood if the first restaurant we passed on the way in had a BBQ out the front grilling sardines was any indication.

It is very different to Slovenia and things are markedly cheaper. 

Funny at the baker’s shop we noticed lamingtons on sale. Jane mentioned it was quintessential Australian – to which the reply came ‘ my mother , my grandmother and her mother had been making them for years’.

Is it a great urban myth in Australia that it was our invention?

This is essentially a great big fishing village with no train, plane or regular bus service, so tourists essentially need a car. There is a huge harbour as well as lovely beaches, often looked over by the remnants of the city wall. Water was still relatively warm and one guy was swimming with the huge gulls and a couple of kayakers as mates. 

After a lap of the beaches, we walked the harbour where fishing boats were boxing up their catches ready for collection by restaurants. The variation of the trawler catches was amazing. The local cat fraternity either smelt or saw them coming and were waiting hungrily in the park opposite for some offcuts.

After the walk we nestled in a little wine bar overlooking the harbour. Pinched the seats of an English guy who was legless, but nonetheless attempting to ride home. Unable to even throw his leg over he walked a very crooked route- hopefully towards home. After seeing the sign around the corner wasn’t too sure it was just wine he had been ingesting.

We tried an orange wine, but quickly deferred to a more pleasant local Rose. 

After an hour or so of people watching and drinking in the surroundings , including a show by a flock of swallows, we headed for a nearby fish restaurant and shared a seafood platter of 2 types of fish, mussels, calamari, scampi and some potatoes garnished with chard. Washed down with a wine for Jane and a local pale ale for me.

Finished night off with a wander around the streets,which took much longer than the time it did to demolish our gelato, because of a GPS problem as there was two hotels with the same name.

Official day off tomorrow and plans are likely to be driven by weather with 60mm predicted over next couple of days.

Monday 30th September 2024

Around Lake Bled

Another stunning day greeted us and we enjoyed breakfast on the terrace overlooking the island.

No plannned hike today other than walking up some steps to the church and a circuit walk on the path around the lake, sucking in the views from every direction.

We organised our cab ride to the station for tomorrow and in doing so found the front door of the hotel obviating the need to traverse that staircase.

Worked our way down to the foreshore and picked up a ride in a gondola to the island. The gondolier pushed the craft along with relative ease despite the 20 passengers on board. As he explained it’s all about body weight – might be a chance for me yet with a second career.

The trip over gave us a different perspective of the lake and our hotel and its cafe. The latter was originally going to be a castle, which connected to the hotel, but funds dried up. It had hosted many world leaders under Tito’s rule with walls decked out in pictures, including Ethiopian leader Haile Selassie. The two countries apparently had strong diplomatic ties and similar views on leadership.

The gondola pulled into the wharf and all and sundry tackled the circa 100 stairs to the top and the church.

We soon found out that the incessant tolling of the bells had nothing to do with the time of day. Essentially everyone who reached the top of the tower had the privilege to ring the bell in acknowledgement of the feat. 

We decided we had climbed enough stairs and while I did the grand tour high and low, Santa’s Little Helper was in the Gift Shop.

Down where the hired row boats arrived there was chaos as the amateurs attempted to anchor and disembark at a less than stable platform. Rather than giggle I played boatman for a while.

Back up the hill we took in the sights with yet another perspective , including back across the lake to our hotel.

Even though its end of season it was still pretty busy and the boats were regularly criss crossing the lake ( a full boat earned around €350). Two gondoliers with boat loads of school kids were even staging their own regatta to the cheers of the kids.

Whilst on the island we ran into three English ladies doing the same trip, but a couple of days ahead.   The story  they recounted  about their trip through yesterday flooded section made us glad we were behind. 

They walked through knee to thigh deep water for a long way and several other walkers needed a lift in a camper van- thankfully the bridge was open but they faced the same dilemma on the other side.  How soft were we complaining about a few puddles.

They also mention the walk through the Soteska Vintgar  Gorge which we had thought about but declined. After their glowing reports we were off the boat, which conveniently docked at our staircase , and up kitting out for the walk.

A 20 minute cab ride had us at the entry and with a 50 minute wait before our designated entry time we had a quick bite to eat and a little thirst quencher.

For a very cheap entry fee you got the privilege to wear a brightly coloured,one size fits all, helmet. I looked like a reincarnate of Sargeant Shultz. 

On a brighter note you got to wind your way down and across this amazing gorge on wooden boardwalks and bridges above a waterway juiced up by the recent rain.

It was supposedly a one way walk, but a couple of elderly people passed us about a third of the way in, heading in the reverse direction- someone must have tipped them off about the steep walk back on another route. There was also a clueless 20 Something Yanky lass arguing  with staff that nobody told her  it was a  one way walk – perhaps reading the conditions of entry might have been a good idea  and fact she passed nobody walking in the other direction might have been a clue.

The waterway ran though a gorge  which was sometimes 20 metres wide and at its narrowest just a couple. The rapids would have had kayakers salivating, though the 15-20 metre drop at the end would have been a challenge.

At the end of the walk were stairs down to bottom of the falls and a sign to start of the longer flat track back to Bled- the latter sign read ‘ track closed for maintenance”. That meant only one thing – up a couple of hundred steps to meet the steep trail that wend its way back to the start of the walk. A 1.5 hour waddle along some nice paths halfway up the Gorge was our domain.

Read about  shuttle to Bled Central, but missed the bit about Parking 1. Hence we got dropped off at the very central parking lot and had a 4 km walk back home.

Was a nice walk passing the cliff top castle and then following the lakeside path for a fair bit of the way by the more modern hotels.

Those damn hire row boats were a challenge for a young Japanese man and his crew of 3. Trying to emulate the gondoliers is one thing, but progress is much simpler if you have the pointy end aimed at where you are going. People swimming were passing him and guessing in his hour hire he went about 200 metres. Made me think of my old mate and rowing coach Peter Staunton who could have been of assistance like he was in 86 getting his Masters rowing team a medal.

Having worked up a thirst we stopped at our now favourite hotel and dined on an ice cream concoction (shared) and a gin and tonic with that many floral garnishes you could have made a floral wreath.

At least it limited the amount of ice they could put in.

A bit more knackered than intended we headed home and got our head around tomorrow’s travel plans to Croatia’s west coast to start our next adventure across the Istrian Peninsula.

Brushed ourselves up and headed out for a late dinner . Turned out that everyone else had the same idea. As fate would have it the ‘now favourite hotel’ was the only one available. Only had a light dinner and then tried to snap some night time shots.

I was mesmerised by the lights of the castle which appeared to represent a dog on the rock face. Less than convinced Jane thought effects of walk and alcohol may have played tricks with my imagination. Only by publishing the photo might I garner some support.

Back to hotel for our last sleep in the lap of luxury.

Saturday 28th September 2024

Around Lake Bohinjska

Woke early and listened to the Swan’s demise until just after half time. Couldn’t see them coming back from such an inept performance. The inevitable commentary will come from lounge warriors pushing to sack the coach and a few players.

The rain had eased overnight but the lake was still flooded, with many of the boat moorings still under water and craft unable to be accessed.

A very large crowd of visitors filled the breakfast room ranging from hikers to bikers to the bus people. The Japanese and Americans have certainly discovered Slovenia.

Headed off on a lakeside path with the lake starting to show its best as the sun poked through the clouds. The famous golden goat statue holds pride of place at the wharf.

A few of the canoes left right side up had filled with water and were submerged on the shoreline.

If we felt inclined we could have challenged the climbing wall, but unfortunately left my chalk bag back in Australia.

The lake is dotted with lots of small hotels, all looking to have plenty of vacancies at this end of the season.

Across the lake was a huge hole in the mountains spewing water into the lake and providing a great show.

Lots of walkers and joggers on our trail and after 4 or so kilometres we reached the Vogel, otherwise known as the cable car.

With 20 others we backed our way up the hill capturing a magnificent panorama of the lake and mountains. We were able to trace our steps from top to bottom  from yesterday and it cemented in our minds that we had certainly come down from the clouds.

The top of the mountain at 1535 metres opened up onto a winter wonderland with ski runs, walking paths, all sorts of alpine adventures for the thrill seekers and even a disc golf course.

A mini zoo had a collection of alpine dwellers including a lama that looked as though it had cross bred with a panda. Thankfully all of the wild animals were wooden carvings which was heartening after reading a story about a bear devouring two people and 30 dogs somewhere in Europe.

Wandered around before an equally beautiful ride down. Wasn’t the same for a height challenged young American who spent the entire trip clinging to a pole with his eyes shut and being comforted by his girlfriend.

Met a few Aussies on way down who were touring similar territory to us albeit by bus- they were equally impressed by Slovenia from the scenery to people and food/wine/beer.

Stopped for lunch at a restaurant slightly above the flood line before making enquiries if we could complete the full circuit of the lake. The words of local campsite operator made it quite clear

‘ if waterfall flow you no go’.

Pretty timely advice as we were just about to do the return walk when a strong thunderstorm hit with pretty heavy rain, flashes of lightning and thunder that echoed through the valley.

Option was bus, so we and a crew of bikers waited in the bus shelter for 40 minutes or so.

We took the bus and they took their chances. 

We wondered what happened to those people who set off into the hills at the top of the chairlift.

That rain will only serve to top up the already swollen lake and river.

Arrived back in town and did a lap of the shops searching not for food, but more Xmas decorations.

Dinner was in a local restaurant where again the local fare and beer and wine were a nice finish to another day in a spectacular setting.

Sunday 29th September

Lake Bohinjska to Lake Bled

Another cosmopolitan breakfast and then a quick lap outside to see how the water level was and capture some pictures of the most photographed church in Slovenia and the monument to the mountaineers who first conquered  Mt Triglav- the highest point in Slovenia.

The water level had dropped a bit but it was still going under the bridge at a pretty swift rate.

We had a late pick up and transfer to our starting point, tucked into a lovely valley.

It was an interesting trip as we followed the main train line that snaked its way in the hills above the town and in spots had protective structures in the event of rockfalls.

Having read the track notes, that wasn’t a particularly good sign as we need to go up 500 metres in the first 3 kilometres.

After a map misinterpretation and some help from a local we were heading up through the meadows to a main road.

Made steady progress on a snaking hill, passed by the occasional car and biker. We both let out a collective sigh when we passed house number 5 which signified the top of the climb and delivered us in a quaint little village of about 20 houses and of course a church hidden amongst a copse of trees. The local fire station had an interest logo out the front.

It was a pretty spectacular view over to the Slovenian/Austrian border with the distant alps noticeably higher. We got our first glimpses of the castle in Lake Bled before we dropped back down into the forest and had our second encounter with a deer who had been sunning himself- oblivious to the hunters roost camouflaged in the adjacent field.

Landed on level farm ground and sloshed our way along puddled paths next to flooded field. Ran into a few families hiking up into the forests and also farmer Radic towing some freshly hewn logs down from the hills.

We then came across the biggest collection of animals in a paddock we had encountered.

They were adjacent to a bridge crossing a raging river. In a quick discussion with a guy on the bridge he explained that the river had broken its banks the day before and animals had been repositioned three times to avoid the water. Whether it was hearing or a language interpretation problem he suggested water was running with 60 times the normal volume. 

Crossed the bridge and did a bit more forest hopping before entering a quaint little village where one of the houses had a stream running through its garden- wondered what it might have been like yesterday.

Stopped for a snack under some trees on welcomed seats before meandering down the hill with ever increasing glimpses of the churches and the castle in Lake Bled. The corn drying on the racks was a bit of a tease, but we stuck with biscuits, fruit and chocolate.

Missed the recommended farm styled restaurant and ended up lunching in a hotel right on the shores of the lake with an absolutely amazing view.

The boats which ferried people to the island, using manpower, were all tied up awaiting some customers.

I always thought bees made honey, not so here we had two almost drown in the honey bowl we had as a complement to our cheese plate. Acting veterinarian Jane gently manouvered them out and let them stagger around on her plate before they fluttered away.

Then it was off to find out hotel, which came with an amazing history, having been built for the communist regime of Tito and company. Then refurbished 20 years ago.

We found a huge metal gate leading up side stairway and ended up in a hotel very reminiscent of the Hydro Majestic , but on steroids.

Staff running around dressed to the nines. Lobbies and sitting areas furnished with immaculate furniture and restaurants set up for fine dining. Our room was great with a perfect view across to the island and famous church.

The hotel had its own beach and you had access to a row boat. It also had a separate cafe higher up in the 1.5 acre estate with panoramic views, including the rowing complex where many a championship has been conducted. It was the last day of the season and we were it’s last customers.

Did a tour around the gardens before returning to the restaurant for a fine dining experience which was part of the tour. We only had to buy the matched wines with each course. 

That ended another great day and tomorrow we attack the gorge and the island and its historic church. If there is any spare time and energy we might visit the castle.