Gobble Up Turkey

Thursday 19th October 2023

Soulliac to Rouffhilac to Sarlat

A late start today with sunrise about 800 and not due to be briefed until 900, so it was a pack up, leisurely breakfast and a cheerio to the crew we met last night, before a transfer to Rouffhilac.

Starting point was right near the swift flowing Dordogne River which we got a great view of from a bridge decorated for Breast Cancer Week. It also provided a peek at the hill we were to traverse for the first hour or so of the morning through beautiful forests.

Luckily the rain predicted for today did not materialise and walking conditions were perfect. A bit of bird life and got buzzed by a very big bird in the shape of a Police helicopter. We mustn’t have looked too threatening and it continued it’s low sweep of the valley.

We passed some majestic homes, old farm buildings and large farm houses sitting on the mountain tops and in valleys as we ‘undulated “ our way forward.

Worked our way down into Carlux where there was a pretty and well preserved ruin of an old castle.

We spent a fair bit of time on paths cutting in and out of pastures and forests , often passing close to the barns of farms, many full of recently gathered fodder for winter- neat stacking was not a necessity.

Whilst there were still heaps of beautifully preserved houses it was tragic to come across a grand chateau which was razed by Nazi’s in WW2.

Thankfully as part of a national pro to restore many historical buildings, this one is earmarked for renovation.

Lots more forests to negotiate and a log in the middle of one proved an ideal lunch spot. Lunch caused a little bit of brain fade and along with little or no markings we spent a while testing paths to find the right way forward. Even after a 45 minute push up hill to a road we were still uncertain – thankfully the app , not the notes, confirmed our location.

We were soon back in the forest where major logging of small trees was clearly evident by the swathes of denuded slopes and stockpiles of timber destined for a logburner.

As we worked our way out of forests Sarlat came into view and it was very different to towns we had visited , it was as though the world stood still in the 1500’s, with little sign of modern buildings.

That said there were new buildings but built in the old style.

We were soon making our way down a steep roads and avoiding oncoming cars, unlike the car which backed out into traffic and got collected by one just adjacent to us. We didn’t bother to stay and wait for the discussion of who was at fault.

Soon arrived in town and it was magnificent – you were waiting for a knight to ride up the street on a white steed. Even the light outside Gendarmerie had a chandelier.

Aftet 6.5 hours and 19 kilometers in our proverbial saddle we arrived at yet another great hotel, with a lift.

Typical small but well presented room, adjacent to a lovely sunroom looking out into the square.

Left early for dinner and the ambiance of the medieval town was simply amazing. Cobblestone paths, little alleys leading to quaint houses and restaurants and enough restaurants to satisfy the needs of anyone visiting the town to test it’s “food”heaven reputation. A quiet drink in a local bar was a nice entree.

It was no surprise that the food at our restaurant was superb yet different- who could imagine a foie gras spring roll. The fish and pork mains were yummy.

The recommended wine was pretty good as well, along with fabulous service. Interesting one waiter was born and bred here and never travelled- guess that happens when you live in a time cspsule.

Walked home past a few art shops and reckon I found the next cup for The Everest – will need to send PV a note and he can organize a Research Tour for ATC and NRL executive.

Home to check out weather for tomorrow and looks mildly positive with rain not predicted until noon.

Wednesday 18th October 2023

Toulouse to Souilliac

From the news received late this afternoon we got out of the big towns at the right time with both Toulouse and Strasbourg airports , along with other airports and train stations across the country, locked down over bomb threats.

It might have explained the presence of police on our train this morning, all after me helping a Muslim woman put her bag up onto the luggage rack.

A bit of a slow morning before heading to the train station and hopping on the fast train to Soulliac. Thankfully the platform steps dropped us right at our carriage , the last one on a 12 carriage train.

Pretty sparse crowd, including the 2 police who eyed off every traveller and piece of baggage before jumping off as we left.

Train was quickly out of the city and burbs into the counter dry ploughed fields were the order of the day. Mostly crops, with the odd vineyard. Interesting that apple orchards were planted in exactly the same fashion as grapes.

Up until a major industrial town of Montuban the train tracked a canal which had the odd boat plying it’s way towards the harbour in that town.

The train rattled along stopping several times without dropping off passengers – why I don’t know. We stopped at Cahors a town familiar to me , as on a walk across France we stopped there and I was selected to do the pilgrims reading at the Cathedral.

The on again off again stopping continued the last one with an announcement about a security incident – sure it was just another fare evader like we had in our carriage, not a bomb threat.

After about 15 minutes we were off again and finally arrived at Souilliac , in the pouring rain- with exit right at the front end of station. A couple of wet and bedraggled walkers fell into the back of the tour company van for the short trip to our hotel.

Winners again a lovely place with a nice room and only one set of stairs to haul our bags up.

Another mix up with 1600 and 600 pm saw us miss the briefing with guide, as we left around 430 not knowing she was late.

Despite the rain we did a quick wander around town which was basically deserted probably being mid afternoon closure and end of tourist season. Again the Cathedral and cute houses were the picks of the tour, though we will get a chance to revisit when we finish tour here and use it as s base for a couple of days. Our hotel was right on the river which used to drive the now abandoned huge mill.

Went for a drink and ran into an Aussie and US couple who had finished the last day of the tour and they created great expectations for the next week.

The Dordogne region is renowned for the food and wine and the 3 course meal with realistic sized portions and great taste was to die for.

Off to bed pretty excited about tomorrows trip through the forests snd hsmlets, hopefully with less rain than predicted.

Tuesday 17th October 2023

Toulouse Town

Hard to handle these days without a backpack and some dirt under your feet, but there is always good food and drink and today was no exception.

French breakfast, bread, croissant and coffee was plenty on a day where our main activity was a 3 hour food tour of the Victor Hugo Covered Market, which was a 1000 start.

Did a bit of a wander around the area and ran across parents taking kids to school in there various contraptions – there was no line- up here of SUV’s and traffic wardens.

Worked our way over to the starting point and met the lady with the wicker basket who would be our guide.

She was an American and its a sideline for her as she and her American husband both work in jobs associated with aerospace – not unusual in the city which is Capital of the industry.

Five others on the tour, 4 Americans and a German vegan who was unlikely to get fat on what she could consume at the market. The market is huge with one market floor, a second floor full of restaurants and several floors of paid parking atop.

Got a good rundown on the history of the market and one particular qualification people who work with their hands can earn. It’s pretty tough going to earn one and failed participants have to wait a further 4 years before applying. It was called the MOF or Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

It’s a title which goes with an individual and they take it with them wherever they work – it’s not like a a Michelin Star earned by restaurants.

The operator of the boulangerie whete we tasted bread and a chocolate infused croisssnt had one. Both samples were nice and a good starter for the day. We passed several other bakeries where amazing varieties of bread were sold including huge loaves that would last a week. Interestingly law says traditional baguettes must be sold for €1.30. You can charge what you want for others.

Next section was the fresh meat which was sectioned off into animal type and cuts, including every limb, ear and gizzards. Onebshop specialised in offal. Tomahawk steaks sold for near on €70 per kilo.

Next we were off to the pastry outlet which specialised in infusing crystallised violets into their products – it was a delightful taste in crystal form and as an additive in the cakes designed especially for the famous local cycle race – hence the shape of the cake. We sampled a couple more later in the tour.

Next we had a breeze through of the seafood area , which we did not sample. It had a great array of oysters and other fish.

The French are big on cured meets and the next stop was a third generation producer of aged hams. He was a MOF and after assuring himself we were neither South African or Kiwi rugby referees ,after France’s demise the other night.

He proudly talked his way through his process, array of famous customers (including Lionel Messi and King of Spain) , plus skited about being European champion producer.

When a guy can sell ham that has been cured for up to 4 years for €270 a kilo who was not prepared to listen. Some hams sold whole for €1025- can’t imagine taking one of those home from the Xmas raffle.

We got to taste a bit the size of your finger nail and it was delicious.

Next it was off to the cheese producers. What a selection. We were fortunate enough to taste 5 later in the tour.
Their selection and presentation was amazing.

Aforementioned oysters below.

Ran into a few Aussies staying in Toulouse for the entire World Cup – the market had become their favourite haunt.

Next it was outside to fruit and vegetables. The mushrooms were plentiful and even at €22 a kilo had heaps of people carefully running their eye over each one before buying.

The tour culminated with a wine tasting complemented by the fare the guide had collected along the way.

There was a group of 3 men who apparently frequent the bar everyday to eat, drink and solve the problems of the world. I am sure I spied Tony Simon’s twin nearby

Tour over we did a bit more sightseeing, including booking tonight’s restaurant – a 1 Michelin Star joint famous for producing the best version of the local favourite cassoulet.

Nearing home we passed the same old man from yesterday, must be in his 80’s or 90’s.He was sitting in the middle of path on a rickety old chair in a dishevelled state – but still breathing. Today he was in the shade yesterday the sunlight. Must be a pretty lousy existence.

After a little siesta we went in search of the railway station where we leave from tomorrow heading to our next walking destination Soulliac. Looking at weather forecast we are in for wet bums for the next week or so.

Walked through an area where many shops had Sex in the title and footpaths had a few girls standing around looking glamorous – not sure we haven’t been living in the equivalent of Kings Cross.

We found station and then embarked on another canal walk which again meant playing ‘dodge the bike’.

Still not much boating activity just a few moored and a punt mowing edges and pruning trees. The canal experience is still a bit underwhelming- other than an enormous fish mural. A few more of these might enhance the experience.

Ventured off the water into a beautiful park which had been themed for the Rugby World Cup with team plaques around a fountain and a statue of guys doing the kaka- could not help but to join in.

We wandered further through town where they are extending the Metro, with one station directly underneath a monument they have gone to great lengths to protect. The statuen next door looks to have averted the rail route.

Nearing home we got closer to Jane fulfilling her dream of a carousel ride – only to find it closed for the day.

We headed to the bar where we watched the RWC the other night and there is not a sign of televisions, posters or bunting- seems with France out it is now a non event- except the whining about refereeing.

Later in the evening we went to Emerley restaurant and enjoyed the famous cassoulet and a nice little Rose. The place was packed with locals and a few tourists and business people.

Was then home to bed for the last sleep in Toulouse which is a town that seems to have lost a bit of its soul – not too many smiling people, streets are dirty and not much love with buildings- was a bit surprising given it was one of the RWC host cities.

Monday 16th October 2023

Toulouse Town

Pretty quiet here in Toulouse this morning compared to the festivities of last night – before the final result.

Had our first meagre French breakfast offering, which we probably needed after nearly four weeks of eating and drinking.

Today was about sightseeing in France’s fifth biggest city, with a population of Adelaide. It has a young feel about it with all of the Uni students around the place. Sadly there is also a lot of homeless people strewn around the streets.

We headed down to the Capitol building , where it’s main square was being cleaned up after a weekend expo of some sort. The building is pretty grand outside and on the inside it houses some wonderful art.

Got some sagely advice from the Toutist Information people and walked the old city for a while, where many of the old houses had been converted to high end outlets. Interestingly most closed on Monday.

Still having the occasional Oop’s with cyclists who spend a lot of time on footpaths – most are very forgiving. Lots of quaint town squares with coffee shops doing a roaring trade.

We did find one non-drinker looking a little bit disinterested in what was happening around him.

Three notable differences here than in other places we have visited, is dogs shit everywhere and it’s not picked up, men piss on more posts than dogs and rubbish bins are used less frequently.

Worked our way down to the Gascogne River which has hardly any flow when compared to the Rhine. It does have a lovely asymmetrical bridge with some unique designs to deal with strong flood flows. One area below the flood level has a huge metal flood gate to protect the houses.

There is nowhere near the boat traffic, with only one cruise boat about. On the other hand the riverside was quite busy with runners, walkers and people taking in the world. Quite a few little school kids on excursions who were more enjoying the pirate ship in the park than the scenery.

There are two notable canals that run off the river and they are not only lovely tree coveted walks, but home to canal dwellers who use the lock system to potter around the canals.

We walked about 4-5 kilometres along the canals before popping out beside the huge Airbus Head Office , which is a city in itself. Yesterday when we flew in we noticed 6 planes shaped like dolphins and Dr Google tells us they are transport planes used to move plane componentry around before final assembly.

Heaps of people flowing out of there through some lovely Chinese Gardens towards a huge area full of takeaway food. Seems as though sushi and poke bowls have taken over from Macca’s here.

We grabbed a salad for lunch, much to Jane’s chagrin. She had her eyes on a scallop risotto, but adjacent table got the last one.

Did some more wandering around town where we noticed a huge number of damaged window fronts , but were not sure if it was in response to last nights result in rugby or recent riots.

Got home and then headed to the laundromat where every customer other than us was a Uni student- bright but not street smart as they asked us how to use the coin operated equipment.

Dinner tonight was at a recommended restaurant where you knew it was going to be pricey just based on staff attire.

Jane got her scallops and me some duck, all served by the friendliest wait person on tour.

Headed home for some rest to build up for the coveted market food tour tomorrow.

Sunday 15th October 2023

Freiburg to Toulouse

Up a little late, despite being woken by the Sunday church bells a few hours earlier.

We popped out of hotel to head to breakfast room around the corner and there was not a soul around.

Gave the champagne breakfast a miss and had a healthy start to a day on which we would see very little except from the window of buses, trams, trains and planes as we transitioned from Freiburg via Strasbourg to Toulouse.

At least the rain had disappeared and we walked around town in 9 degree temperatures, with the only people out being those at church or on organised City Tours , with the funny hat brigade. Despite all of the rain the canals remained water free.

Headed to station for 12 o’clock bus and we were soon on board for the 90 minute ride to Strasbourg. Lots of traffic and lots of cropping along both sides of road , with distant views of mountains. A few vineyards were pushed up against some very lsrge processing plants, but generally grapes have disappeared.

Arrived on time in Strasbourg , it was amazing that from about 15 Kms out of town the spire of the Gothic Cathedral could be spotted.

We mastered both the tram and train terminals to get ourselves out to the airport, here in a city which is home to the European Government.

It’s hard to imagine 900 delegates arriving at the airport which is somewhere between the size of Darwin and Canberra and only seems to have the cheap airlines fly in. There were 6 check in gates and 2 lines for Customs/Security checks. There were 6 flights scheduled to fly out between 1600 and 2100, so that might illustrate its size.

We wiled away the 3 hours doing laps of the terminal and catching up on blogs. Tried to make conversation over a crowd of about 15 Spanish women, supporting a home airline, who had enough carry on luggage to fill the hold let alone overhead lockers.

Despite being in Row 1 the overhead luggage hogs had claimed the first 5 or 6. The pert little Miss next to us was far from happy and chucked a hissy fit and then sat down and grumbled without any affect on staff- shrug of the shoulders and a wry grin was all she got.

Take off was delayed a little whilst staff decided whether they should let a very drunk guy, with an open bottle of rum in his hand, come on board. After a little bit of negotiation they did and he was no problem.

A pretty smooth and uneventful flight with views over rural eastern France which looked to have experienced little recent rain.

Getting bags from lockers was s feat of international co-operation , with the exception of miss sour puss who made everybody wait whilst she readied herself to disembark.

Seems our transport hub management has improved markedly and after a while we were on a slow bus to Toulouse with signs saying ‘expect traffic delays due to Rugby World Cup’ whch was surprising given the France V Springbok game was in Paris. Must have been everybody making their way to pubs snd restaurants to watch on TV.

The 19 minute trip took more like 39, but blessed by fact that bus pulled up virtually outside our hotel.

Jane noticed a prominent duck sculpture , which turned out to be a lounging woman – another Specsavers moment.

Found hotel run by a jovial Frenchman who showed us to our elevator free first floor room, with strict instruction to limit use of air con. We nodded in agreement until finding out none of the windows opened.

Unpacked and headed out for a beer and burger dinner before watching the rugby in one of many venues with people hanging out the doors and cheering loudly at every positive French play.

I now have a favourite rugby play-#2 for the French unlike most players with that number he actually has a neck and runs like the wind.

Headed home at half time to watch second half on TV, cheering loudly for the French, only to be disappointed by the result and the over zealous refereeing by Kiwi whistleblower.

Saturday 14th October 2023

Freiburg

The hottest town in Germany showed its other side today with a wet and windy start to the day.

Shook off the early morning woes with a champagne breakfast followed by a walk through the huge market being set up in the surrounds of the Munster.

There was not much you could not get from farm produce, including the biggest and priciest selection of mushrooms, to flowers to six caravans in a row selling sausages of all flavours.

After that sensory delight we popped into the Munster and it was as big as a football field, but not as ornate as many we had seen. It did have a penchant for ringing bells from 500am.

We then slipped down the skinniest street in town to find the bus station and also a shop to get some walking gear to replace some we lost on previous two walks. We passed the beautiful former market hall on the way.

The light rain was not dampening the spirits of either tourists or locals, with the latter out on their bikes, again in all configurations. The little kids are on bikes at a young age and like everyone here are very polite with bike etiquette. Similarly the dogs are marvellously behaved- perhaps learning that restaurant etiquette helps.

We found both bus stop and a well stocked trekking shop and in increasing rain walked our way back to get more appropriate rain gear. Interesting that the clean and tidy disappeared here , with plenty of remnants of the students previous night going on’s littering the street.

A bit sad to see a fair bit of homelessness- guess it goes with big cities and a town where accommodation is stretched by an influx of students at this time of year.

The little canals were filling up and kids were sailing their little boats. Found the spot where the armada docks on our way around town.

More appropriately dressed we pulled out the guide book and did a City Tour. Retraced a few steps from yesterday and there was no feet dangling drinkers, nor was the students bar heaving like the previous night. We also found why students jumped into the river – it was to decorate a statue of a crocodile with chestnuts.

There was the usual swag of lovely buildings and tour guides with weird hats leading groups around the streets. Led to believe a red hat means you are single.

The towns famous 3 Hat Michelin restaurant named after the wolves was offering a degustation lunch for around €160 a head- we were heading for a €3 sausage later in the walk.

We walked back around the former tannery and fish market area which had a great mini brewery and at 11 in the morning who could resist a beer.

Walked through more areas where the students and lecturers hang out, including the equivalent of the Spanish Steps in Rome. There is also a coloured pattern that goes from green to red when it’s time for drinkers to go home – if you believe what locals tell you.

Ran into a family on a trip into town with their 3 kids on bikes – nothing like a 10 km cycle because it’s more convenient than driving.

The area was particularly popular with students for drinking and eating, so Jane slipped back into her Uni day behaviour.

After all that drinking we were looking for a toilet , forgetting we were not in Spain where it’s called a banyo , I mistakenly walked into a Vietnamese restaurant, fortunately it was next door to the WC- will need a trip to Specsavers when we return.

We toured the covered market which is effectively a food court and again it sold everything except German food- it’s apparently a popular cheap eats spot for students.

Oops Jane’s second trip to the bar.

Gradually headed back towards the markets to get our sausage on a roll and all 6 carts were doing a fine trade. Just as we got served a torrential downpour caught us out and we finished our soggy sandwich under the cover of a fruit stall,.

We dashed through the main gate passing a statue of the monk who invented gunpowder to reach the hotel and dry off. It was sad that McDonalds had placed a sign on such a significant building,

Did a bit of research on Toulouse where we are headed, indirectly through Strasbourg, with some Spanish airline we have never heard off – hope it’s still flying.

Also watched the Eurobowl final of the Gridiron which saw the reigning premiers get a flogging, before heading off on a very early dinner date. Must say football was little less extravagant than the US version and standard likewise.

Finally got the pork knuckle and apple strudel before a wander around town, which was now flush with tourists and more drunk students.

Plenty of fashion shops and I spied a pair of shoes that might double as dancing and golf attire – all mine for €300. Also found the ultimate chocolate Advent Calendar in a Haig’s Chocolates like store for a similar price- it would have been hard to squeeze in a back pack.

That rounded off another great day in Germany and it’s back to the land of croissants tomorrow.

Kirschzaten to Freiberg

Friday 13 October 2023

Our time has flown in the Black Forest and today it’s a chance to experience the last vestiges of walking up and down hills to reach Freiburg. It’s supposedly the hottest place in Germany and todays 30 degree forecast might help cement that factor.

Breakfast over we headed up into town and came across the locals setting up the markets in a tiny town square, with a great selection of local fare. I am sure Jane would have stayed longer had we not still had 6 hours to go and we hadn’t snapped a shot with the odd town fountain.

After dropping into a cafe to stock up for the day, it was some lovely walking in farmlands and small hamlets. Ran into a group of little kits going to a nature farm which we passed with its herd of goats and their own fun park, including a trampoline.

It was a strong animal focus as we passed a big dog training school with all of the agility equipment.

The local apartments dwellers in a nearby town had about 500 metres of community gardens established along the side of a babbling brook. One had some weird paraphernalia on his wall and gate right next to his very neat wood pile.

The local farmers are nearing the season end harvesting, with only small paddocks of sunflowers and pumpkins left over. There was a huge co-op that looked like a rural Bunnings store.

The flat ground and soft tracks made it easy walking as we neared the first hilly bit- 2 kilometres up to 420 metres. Before reaching it we passed a sign on a fence which translated into ‘experiential learning’. A girl sitting on a timber plinth assisted little in what really went on behind fences topped with barbed wire in places.

After that we went passed a significant horse farm where most horses were stabled- one poked his head out to ssay hello.

Reached the turnoff into the forest and it was as some friends had described ‘a hard slog to the chapel at the top”.

About 40 minutes later we reached a clearing and the 12 seat chapel of St Gwendoline, who looked after shepherds. If the cobwebs around the door were any indication she had few people taking refuge or praying.

After a time to rest up and dry out we headed back into the forest with the usual collection of signs. Again the blue and yellow scallop sign for the Way of St James, which heads through Germany and France on its way to Spain , popped up.

St Ottien was our target so we struck off on a beautiful path with filtered sunlight to eventually came to the drop off track to the village.

One slight problem, the area was being logged and we had to find an alternate route. Thankfully the Map Me app worked and we took a long route around the mountain for a couple of kilometres before finding a track we wished we had not.

Because it was rarely used it was overgrown, narrow, steep with ball bearing like stones underfoot. Forward scout Jane who had been suffering a bit with dry eyes,which affected her vision, had a couple of mishaps. One was a rough landing on her backside and the other was a need to bum her way down the last 5 metres or so as it was so slippery. I only had to emulate the latter.

A bit dusty and scratched we were strangely relieved as the restaurant above us with all of the clinking glasses was at least on the trail notes.

We still had 4-5 kilometres to go depending on the signage or our notes, but Jane’s vision was not improving even when applying drops. Thankfully it was a fairly wide and smooth path we trod towards the end of the forest, with Jane tethered to my arm. Think some passers by might have thought I was the lead for a blind athlete, given the polite smiles.

For the last 2 kilometres of the walk, towards the path into town, we ignored the notes, as they bore little resemblance to the trail. We simply followed what was now a regular group of daywalkers going both ways.

We broke out of the forest for the last time and gazed upon Freiburg which was dominated by churches, the Munster (cathedral) and town gate towers.
After a slow descent on a winding cobble stone path we entered the gate known as the entrance to the Black Forest ( if you are going the other way).

What an amazing town packed with tourists and being a Univetsity town, droves of young people. We walked towards the gothic Munster , along streets whete mini canals served as watercourses, gutters, places for people to cool off their feet while having a drink and for kids to sail toy boats.

I still can’t get over the different variations of kid transport here and the size of little kids on cycles.

Reached our hotel and again not disappointed with a large third floor room and a lift.

After cleaning up we headed off on a walk around town, not as neat and tidy as many others , before we quickly found a bar next to the river .

We sat and watched the world pass by including students in great clumps carrying copious amounts of grog doing what looked like a welcome to Uni initiation.
Skulling drinks and jumping in the river were but two.

We were going to drink at the beer house opposite with a couple of hundred seats, but it was packed.

We wandered back into town to look at the Munster, nearly as impressive as the one it copied in Strasbourg, before finding an outdoor restaurant for dinner.

A bit more wandering the streets with more and more students in varying levels of sobriety, before dodging the roving musicians and beggars and heading home – might say with Black Forest done and dusted.

Thursday 12th October 2023

Kirschzaten and Surrounds

After yesterdays hot weather and even hotter forecast for today we almost beat the cook to the breakfast room in search of an early start.

Getting hard to fault any of the meals put before us at the hotels and we again enjoyed a great offering.- they even had a toaster.

We were on the 758 bus headed for the top of the mountain today, which is predominantly ski fields.

It was a 30 minute trip and for most of it we were the only passengers, as the bus went through little hamlets before snaking it’s way towards the top.

We had a little surprise in store when the bus did not go right to the top where the cable car started, we had to work our way across the mountain for 2.5 extra kilometres.

Again a camera cannot do the scenery justice , everywhere you looked there were meadows that were for grazing animals or winter ski runs. It would be a skiers heaven living up here.

A lot of the road runoffs had camper vans set up taking in the views. Some small slopes had their own ski lifts.

We were essentially the only walkers on this trail, that you didn’t want to leave- it was the ultimate alpine walking environment.

Whilst it’s farming and skiing up here the area has a rich history in mining and many of the hills are home to kilometres of mining shafts. Just near the chairlift was a Minimg Museum, which unfortunately was closed. There was a small remnant on the side of the track

Whilst the track dropped off we continued our upward journey in an area dotted with crazy wooden carvings and steel sculptures to honour the spirits of the forest. When I first read that terminology I thought we were in for a morning drink, with some local moonshine.

About 150 metres up a steep track was an observation tower with magnificent views. We took the detour and arrived to find the tower closed – the only view we got was a camper pulling up his duds after morning ablutions.

Even without a 5 storey walk to the top we enjoyed great panoramic views over the whole region. On the way down we came across a huge weather vane which was spinning in winds of about 30kph.

We started our downward journey with some forest paths ducking in and out onto meadows- could even be ski slopes with a bit of imagination.

We often spied hunters stands either secreted in small rough shelters or in tall structures resembling lifesavers towers at the beach. Maybe they had more luck than us in hunting season as fauna has been almost non existent, other than the occasional bird chirp.

Downhill progress was pretty slow , as they managed to throw a few upslopes in through some dark forests, which probably illustrated why it is called the Black Forest.

The forests look to be selectively harvested and there is often clear evidence of recent logging, but we have encountered no loggers, just lots of logs.

Took a rest on a stack of logs after a tortuous walk down a steep hill, washed away with runoff and worsened by mountain bikers who seem to be able to ride down any terrain. One confused one joined us and asked for directions – we didn’t see him again so not sure if he made it home or is still pedalling aimlessly.

It was very slow progress for the next hour or so on forest trails often running at a constant 45 degree slope,with either roots or scree which tested the balance. Signs were almost non exsistent and we used our notes and the App to stay on track. Thankfully some responsible loggers moved signs off felled trees to help guide our way.

We did find one flat bit where they were building a new weather research centre – it gave the muscles a little reprieve.

The notes for the next forest path could not have been more accurate “ zig zag steeply down hill and then very steeply down a gravel path before reaching the top of a meadow”

In the middle of a forest most views were the same, so all the concentration was on the next place to put your foot. It worked marvellously through the zig zags, but stepping off the roots onto the ball bearing like scree was not quite as successful. With no poles, due to the lingering rib injury , balancing was not easy and I took the first tumble on tour.

Aside from a few abrasions and more sore ribs, it was the ego that suffered most, especially when every attempt to right yourself on the scree meant sliding further down the hill.

With a bit of moral support from the poled up leader at the bottom of the hill, I tippytoed my way to the bottom, to take in the magnificent meadow view and apply a little first aid.

We wandered down the meadow path negotiating our way through a string contraption which we think was to deter the cows. Not so sure 5 bits of string work – shit unless they are electrified. There was a second set later, that at least had a side gate.

There was plenty of activity in the valley with local farmers doing their thing and parents on bikes with trolleys on the back going to pick up kids from kindy.

Interesting to see the level of solar power being installed right through the region. There are only a few windmills.

Happy to reach flat ground we entered the outskirts of town where a circus, not your Ringlimg Bros, wete setting up for the weekend. The camping area still had a healthy fill, but local pool was closed. We passed what must have been one of the oldest houses in town, looking for a lot of love.

We ended up back in town at about 100pm and then headed up the road with 60 odd school kids to get a Kransky on a roll for lunch.

A bit bruised and battered I had a siesta and Jane popped off for some shopping – but still remains Xmas decoration free at this point.

Had a pre dinner drink in a back street bar, where Responsible Service of Alcohol may not have been taught yet, looking at one fellows wine glass. Nothing like a pint of Reisling.

From there it was back to the hotel for dinner where we enjoyed rabbit and duck plus a nice bottle of burgundy. I just love the way beer is served here – you are guaranteed of a froth moustache.

Then off to bed to toss and turn thinking about tomorrows walk to Freiburg, a little doddle of 17 Kms to finish off our tour.

Wednesday 11th October 2023

Kirschgaten and Surrounds

It seems the summer like conditions have 3 more days to go here in the Black Forest , which see us about to head south when day time temperatures plummet by 10-12 degrees.

Kitchen kept up the high standards and we fuelled up for what was essentially a downhill run for most of the day.

It was improved even more by fact that a bus took us up into the mountains to start the 15 Kms. The area is famous for its Monastery, cuckoo clock making and being the sight of a Hitler Youth Teaining camp after the war.

Thankfully no relic of the latter exists.

Arrived at St Stephen’s Monastery, which as expected sat on top of a hill, with a double spired church that you could see from miles away.

The outside was surrounded by cloisters, which have now been converted into admin offices , residences and small business units.

Everything was pretty austere from the outside, but inside was the Catholic Church at its opulent best.

Walls were adorned with sculptures and paintings , whilst the ceiling was awash with Fresco’s

Lots of ornamental gold featured in the cordoned off altar area which was half the size of a football field. The pipe organ stood proudly over the entry way.

One quakes when you try to estimate the value of places like this.

The oversized chess set, tiny fountain and sculpture outside paled into insignificance.

Spent a bit of time wandering around before setting off for the descent. It lasted about 3 minutes before we chugged our way through the village,where houses were all neat as a pin, with many having showy flower fronts.

Then it was up and out into the meadows with the spires ever in sight when looking back, as we steadily beat our way uphill. There were plenty of walkers of our age out and about with the usual contingent of cyclists.

Reached a significant historical point – the gallows. No remnants of it other than a sign and a tree , perhaps it’s something best not celebrated when it sits right in the middle of a pilgrims way, albeit it was next to a sign about wolves.

Finally found our first bit of genuine downhill terrain and passed a few horses coming up steeply and puffing, a bit like we were on the other side, trying to manage a 35 degree ascent.

The downhill continued along the outside of the forest, which gave a great view but didn’t help the head of someone who forgot their hat.

As usual it was a myriad of signs and walking instructions we had to follow which stopped when we arrived at Lindenberg with the House of Maria and famous church.

The spot has been a visiting place of pilgrims for over 600 years and has a mantra of ‘ whatever comes with you to Lindenbetg stays here’ perhaps a modern day translation might be ‘ what happens on tour stays on tour’.

We couldn’t get into the church because a service was in progress, so we plonked for a morning break. Fed and watered we headed off, until 800 meters down the track I realized my phone was on the bench. Broke a few records on the way back but with a bit of divine intervention it was still there. As I reflected later in the day it might have been fortune used too early.

The way markers on the way down included a series of chapels which got increasingly smaller as we progressed. The second last one was a one person affair and the last was obviously a bit of German humour.

The next hour or so saw us wandering in and out of forests, up and down very narrow tracks and waiting for the first sound of a cuckoo bird- the only one to date was on a clock. We did see a field mouse as compensation who was cunningly avoiding the black eagles who frequent the area.

Such was the concentration we ended up lost and in some farmers back yard. Given our last recalled marker was a kilometer up the hill , where we chatted with a few locals, we decided to throw away the instruction book and defer to our back up app.

An hour and 3.8 kilometers later we finally reached a point where the real track and our misadventure reunited. Thankfully it was at a railway station and we decided on a 5 minute train ride instead of an hour walk.

Back in town we had a celebratory coffee and Black Forest cake before having a wander around town.

Later we ran into our Welsh pals who got lost in exactly the same place. On reflection we think some recent forestry work may have removed markers – well at least that was our defence.

We decided to have a one course meal for dinner in a pub like establishment and that was exactly what got served up.

It was home to bed with tomorrow’s challenge another ‘downhill’ walk of only 12 Kms which starts at the bottom of a chair lift.

Tuesday 10th October 2023

Hinterzaten to Kirschzaten

Greeted by a slightly cooler day and a little less challenging walk than yesterday, all augered well for a beaut day.

Breakfast was wholesome and we were told to make up our lunch and wrap it in the 3 metres of glad wrap they provided.

Day started poorly for Welsh mate Hwyll ( Hal to us) when he covered the floor with milk after his eyesight problem let him down when filling the milk jug.

Not too pleased staff member cleaned it up , mumbled something in German and then stomped back into the kitchen.

A little later start than usual, leaving at 930, but with 17 Kms to go a 3 pm finish looked achievable.

Within 30 metres of leaving we were admonished by a local driver for walking on wrong side of road – I wished her peace with a silent hand signal.

Unlike yesterday we headed upward out of town and were soon in meadows. Came across a group of ponies in a paddock and a friendly pat turned into a mini defibrillator shock from the electric fence as I leant over. We ran across several more horses in the next kilometre or so with a young girl herding a group on a push bike and another lady walking an old Iceland mate. She had left her tiny Shetland pony hanging out with mum.

We quickly gained height on pretty good minor country roads and were joined by Hal and Caroline.

The animal theme continued as we headed up the hill running into some alpacas and goats.

The higher we got the better the view with scenery a camera could not do justice to. Autumn is starting to show with trees starting to get the lovely orange tinge. We found an out of scale relaxation bench to take in the view.

After an hour and a half we had done about 4kms of undulating walk with the ups well and truly outnumbering the downs and found a lively guest house for a coffee break.

Aside from the very friendly Labrador dog, who obviously sniffed out our lunches, mine host was great with good English and knowing exactly what our tour was all about.

The cappucino was not bad and either was the panoramic view including more ski fields and distant wind farms.

We continued uphill, including 600 metre walk similar to the chairlift walk we missed the other day and ended up at a rustic war memorial honouring lost German souls from both wars. At 1300 metres it was our highest point of the day and decided to take a rest and enjoy the view.

As the band said in the sing Spinning Wheel ‘ what goes up must come down’ we spent the next couple of hours doing so. It was on a mix of grassy hills, rocky rooty forest paths and tracks only a foot width wide along meadows which tumbled down into the valley.

I didn’t complain because I realised most of the cows had to traverse the fields on a daily basis. On one of the forest paths we found a rock big enough to be our sitting spot for lunch.

The forest took a distinct change in appearance as we got lower, due to the majority of native plants being destroyed by bark bug and only recently being replanted with conifers.

There was little respite with the downhill until the 13 kilometre mark when we finally walked out of the forest into flatter meadows and into farming land. One barn had an enormous solar panel installation .

We could see our destination in the distance but with 4kms to go we got the pit pony syndrome with heads down and feet dragging.

We came across a very old farmer wandering up past his wood piles to check on the herd. Just around the corner was two 9 year old trying to sell us catapaults for 2 Euros.

The track meandered along very flat ground beside the river before reaching a mansion with huge grounds full of chestnut trees. Despite signs to the contrary lots of locals were enjoying their fill.

We made the outskirts of town just before 4pm and passed the home ground of the local football club who was sponsored by the Italian pizza restaurant.

Closer to town we crossed the river a couple of times near and old mill before falling upon our pretty smart looking hotel in Kirschzaten.

Got a 2nd floor room with balcony overlooking the main road – surprisingly accessed by an elevator.

Sat on the balcony and watched a parachutist land about 50 metres away. I swore blind he was heading our way.

We cured the dehydration with a couple of local pilsner’s before a pre dinner rest and then catching a great sunset.

Dinner was on par with the excellent meal we had on first two nights, consisting mainly of locally sourced products and in just the right sized proportions. Mixed it with a nice Kaiser Stuhl Pinot Noir.

Service and rapport with staff was first rate.
We have 3 nights here and are still tossing up the order in which to do the walks over next 2 days.