Saturday 17th October 2026
Western Circuit to Dwerja Bay
With hot weather predicted for the day we were up and down to breakfast before the Starters gun had fired. Not many of yesterdays Pommy Ramblers were there after their big coastal walk yesterday, with those there ruddy faced and hobbling.
They spent an inordinate amount of time yesterday quibbling about size of coffee cups, lack of tea pots, no loose fruit and fact that couldn’t pilfer breakfast food to make lunches. They certainly qualified for the Whinging Pom moniker.
It was another bus to Victoria ( islands capital) to the start of trail and that included a 200 metre dash or at least fast waddle up the hill
to catch the bus which unlike most was early.
Even at 845 the town was buzzing with tourists. Thankfully we were quickly through the busy part of town, again where builders were already up and running with renovations. Snuck down a back street to cross a little valley which had one of the few running streams on the island.
Then it was down out into kilometres of fields, many ploughed ready for the next crop. Obviously an Italian owner in one with only crops grapes, figs and olives all protected by a pencil pine wind break.
Again there was the sound of distant gunfire and a new sound – roaring trucks – all headed out towards the coastal area renowned for quarrying limestone.
The quarries are dominated by a couple of families from what we read and are essentially operating 7 days a week.
It was a bit like the dodging on Irish roads, only difference being you jumped against dry stone fences which dominate the landscape right through Gozo.
The area is also known for cave dwellers who lived here even before those who constructed the Ggantija temple – we spotted no caves or people.
Plenty of farmers about, as well as shooters. On one of our few downward tracks near an olive grove a guy in a camouflaged roost was all set up with live lures in cages, wires to rustle the leaves, a trusty hound and an ominous looking 12 gauge shotgun. He was happy for a picture to be taken and then fire off a shot when we were a couple hundred yards down the road.
Within a kilometre or so we came across several other, not at such close range.
Headed out closer to the coast and came to the famous Roman Pond which was effectively a dam with dirty water and a few ducks.
It then went from ducks to trucks as vehicles full of crushed limestone, rubble, carved stones and even cement trucks filled the roads for next kilometre. We then reached the quarry full of all sorts of equipment mining sheer cliffs of limestone in a pit at least 100 metres deep. Most of the work was being done with huge wet saws as they chiselled out almost perfect blocks. Off cits were then crushed for fill or concrete
manufacture. There were about 4 pits with several looking to have been maxed out and in the process of rehabilitation.
Climbed our way further up the valley and worked our way towards Dwerja Bay which the book says is an ideal spot for swimming, both on the magnificent coast line or in the inland sea, which is popular with locals.
When we reached a point where it was visible the whole paradigm changed. It was not just a spot locals like to visit it was packed with tourists . Coaches, ordinary buses, minivans, zoom zoom buggies, cars and motor /push bikes – essentially every possible form of transport.
It was a tourist hotspot with restaurants, food vans , cafes and a bloke playing terrible music on an unidentifiable instrument. There must have been 1000 people there.
The coastal beach was uninhabited as it was razor sharp rocks accessible down a rusty ladder. The inland sea which looks to be fed via a cave out into the ocean had about 3 swimmers who all made very ungracious bum slide entries in and hands and knee exits- not particularly welcoming.
The only real activity was boatmen taking tourists for a 100 metre ride to the cave.
We chose to enjoy a mocktail before making our way up a steep rocky path which wound its way around the amphitheatre like cliffs surrounding the inland sea.
We were soon in the company of trucks again and peering into the biggest quarry of the lot. All across the bottom were heaps of perfectly cut stones and steepling sides with precision cut outs.
After some long hauls up we followed country roads into St Lawrence and St Lucia, villages with little or no amenities, but plenty of houses under renovation or new builds Still begs the question of whether the demand will meet supply.
A bit like in Ireland there is the occasional odd sign. We saw the same sign in villages three times ‘SLOW
CATS CROSSING’ . Still not sure if it was an instruction or description of the cats.
Reached the outskirts of Victoria and worked out where a recommended spot for lunch was located. A bit like the swimming advice our cafe was outside the most famous church in St George Square and was besieged by conga lines of walking groups led by an umbrella holding guide.
Thankfully we got the last seats and enjoyed salads in a bowl made from a taco shell which formed part of tne meal, plus tne taste sensation of the trip – a blue cheese and bacon bruschetta’. Not to
disappoint the owner we finished with a Maltese cinnamon Gelato. There might have been a couple of Cisk beers in there as well.
Lunch or more like Linner over we were back to elbows at 40 paces to secure a seat on the popular 301 bus
Thought about a swim but enjoyed a beer induced siesta after 6 hours in the hot sun.
Jane ended up with a bit of Bali Belly so no fancy dining for us, just another 930 to bed. Hoping weather and Jane’s health hold up for our last walk tomorrow- not surprisingly with 2 swimming opportunities.
