Tuesday 23th October 2026
Ghasri Circular Walk
After looking at bus connections to the trail head and breakfast timings it was up early to prepare for our first walk and first opportunity for a plunge into the sea.
Breakfast done and dusted we were out the door heading to the bus stop for a two leg journey to our starting point.
Remarkably we hit the trifecta, bus on time, traffic light and best driver on tour which meant we hit Victoria and changed and were soon passing the national shrine as we headed for Ghasri proper.
Quiet little town with only houses, church and a supermarket plonked into middle of farmlands where vegetables and prickly pears abounded.
The 360 degree view was filled with hilltop churches representing many different religions, as did the cemetery we passed early on.
We were a bit worried by the roadworks sign saying road was closed but it was only to cars.
When reading about the area it indicated it was a popular netting and shooting area for various birds- much to the chagrin of animal cruelty lobbies. We were soon in the middle of it as a flurry of pidgeons scurried of next to us after volley of rifle shots.
Our pace quickened and that ended up being to my demise as we scurried around a corner covered in what I thought was water, but it was oil. Poles and legs in the air I slid down the concrete road covering me and my clothes in oil.
No major injuries just bumps, bruises and abrasions treated with wet wipes and the juice of the prickly pear. As luck would have it twas only day I didn’t carry the medical kit.
Rejected the help of a motor cycling local more out of pride than anything and plodded along through fields following the bloody oil leak.
Plenty of farmers about, as well as people dodging the roadworks elsewhere. Pretty appropriate when we wheeled into Marsalforn that on the hill overlooking town was a huge Jesus The Tedeemer statue which inspired me down to the beachfront.
The town appears to be just huge blocks of units and new hotels satisfying the needs of tourists- diving and boat rides seemed very popular businesses.
Thought about a swim but tide was high, wind was howling and waves coming in from the open sea were crashing against the ladders on boardwalk leading into water.
I looked and smelt like the local grease monkey with clothes covered in oil so I decided to ditch the walking shorts and change into cosies.
Walked on a kilometre or so and found a very protective bay where we both enjoyed a swim. Jane managed to use the covered bocce court as a dressing room and I found a little cave like opening to change.
Water was beautiful and many a local were drifting around in the bay, unaffected by the wind.
Off again we came across an area similar to Great Ocean Road, unfortunately the most famous of structures had collapsed into the sea.
The coastal path meandered along passing the old salt pans where locals used to harvest he salt which was s very tradable commodity.
Only a few families still ply the trade. The man made pans run for about a kilometre along the seashore.
The sea was pretty choppy and the next swimming opportunity was a pit perilous so we pushed on along the coast passing lots of tourists and a bundle of fisherman down on the waters head.
Came across a weird statue on the cliffs edge which was two conjoined horses with no head. Unfortunately the plaque explaining about it had been vandalised so it’s still a mystery.
Last chance for a swim was a murky cove, apparently a smugglers port in days gone by, which was very unattractive – especially the 100 steep steps down.
Cut back inland through more farmland on a pretty rough trail following a gorge before heading up steeply past the lighthouse and then 400 metres of resort accommodation, with more being added on. Construction is really booming over here particularly housing aimed at the tourism market.
Soon we were up past the National Shrine turnoff and almost back where we started just in time for leg one of bus trip home.
First leg started outside of a kindergarden which just let the kids out. Was amazed to see 8-10 little tackers in a mini bus, none with a seatbelt.
Trip was uneventful until we reached changeover point where 70 into a 60 seat bus didn’t work.
Elbows out we managed to grab a seat and look out window at the disappointed travellers at the stop.
Back in Mgarr and sat on balcony of Grand hotel sipping Cisk and eating a late lunch before a bit of first aid and planning which walk to do tomorrow, which had same forecast 25 and bloody windy.
Snuck out in the proper clothes for a harbourside drink before an early dinner at a seafood restaurant where we put a decent hole in the seafood platter and a bottle of local wine.
Twas a slow waddle up the hill to the toot of the car ferries as they continued to move people across the channel between Gozo and the mainland.
