Friday 2nd October 2026
Dunquin to Place starting with F
A quick look out the window and about 100 metres was the field of vision with driving rain beating on the window. A quick check of the forecast showed 15mm of rain expected an an Irish Zephyr gusting up to 75kph.
Dropped bags downstairs and was warmly welcomed with ‘ I am not ready for you yet’. Saved a caustic response and retreated upstairs till 830. Seems 30 minutes is enough time for someone to swallow a charming pill and welcome us and yet another Canadian couple for breakfast.
The feed was plentiful and Amos The Nrw even let us knock up a takeaway lunch.
Packs on along with poncho we retraced our steps in howling wind and sideways rain. As we reached the pub our friend Amos turned into the driveway – seems he had some unfinished business.
Decided to take an alternate route early on to avoid the beach walk as it was high tide and big seas. The route was on a quiet country lane and took us out past a craggy headland which had volcanic origins. As we looked ahead we could see more features that had a similar shape. A group of 3 were ironically named the 3 sisters.
There were no real streams to cross just streams of water tumbling down the sides of more busier roads we had transitioned to. The very courteous drivers give you a wide berth other than one who pulled up directly in front of us. and ran to his boot. There he plucked out two hi viz sashes telling us it was safer with them when walking on busy roads, especially when our ponchos were black and blue.
Now looking like Postman Pat we marched along the tarmac no drier, but hopefully safer. With attitudes matching the bleak and grey conditions after 2 hours in horrendous conditions an apparition appeared before us in the shape of a hotel – on a day where Amos’ sandwich was going to be our only sustenance.
Given the nearby beach was a film set for Star Wats it was no surprise to be welcomed by two character statues. Popped in and enjoyed some cockle warming Irish Coffee and a chat before pushing on – warmet and more cheerful.
In Jane’s first interview for a job with the BOM she bravely predicted that the weather had improved. Just like a forecaster she got it wrong and for the next hour the wind howled and rain was sideways- as my irreligious golfing buddy Dougie Walters would say’ it was raining heavily enough to wash away the sins of the local priest’, apologies to my Catholic friends.
As time wandered on the pleasure of walking on the road diminished and we headed back towards the coast. With the tide on the way out the sand was our friend for a couple kilometres. At least the howling wind and driving rain dampened the sand and we didn’t have our legs exfoliated. It did still make communication difficult from ant further than 2 metres and looking into it stung the face.
The local footy field was an errant kick from the beach and you could only imagine if you won the toss you would run with the wind on a day like today.
Unfortunately the day’s normal trail finished just passed the end of the beach, but with low accommodation availability we were 4 kms past it. The bonus is we get a 4 km head start tomorrow on what is the hardest day of the walk – 26 kms including a climb over Ireland’s highest mountain – did I hear taxi.
Local lady gave us some tips on an alternate route whilst no shorter did avoid a cliff walk which might be dangerous in today’s conditions.
Chicken Little and Jane decided on the road in conditions that got no better as we seemed to go around in circles. Finally passed the last bay visible from the road and wound our way into the village and our accommodation ( winner of best country B and B last year) after 5 hours in the saddle.
Greeted by a charming young man who had nly one piece of bad news that was our baggage didn’t arrive for 30-45 minutes.
Got out of most of the wet clothes and hung around till it did arrive which we celebrated with tea and apple pie before washing up and becoming human again. Seems the weather Gods had thought we had been suitably punished and the wind stopped and the rain abated.
Got a ride to and from the local pub where we enjoyed dinner music and the craic
Ah another day in Ireland – windy one day windier and wetter the next.
