Monday 21st September 2026
Benevello to Nieve
The worries of the home tenovation had me awake at 312am, but quickly had head back on the pillow after confirmng my payment from afar had been successful and work was continuing.
A nudge in the ribs had me awake at 657, the longest sleep on tour and hoping it’s an omen for the future. Enjoyed a breakfast on the terrace looking at Monte Viso with an Aussie family at the adjacent table. Jane started the awkward moment day asking the daughters name – “Luca is his name , the length of his hair confuses many’
After that oops moment it was a bit of gagging on the wheeties and very little further conversation .
Settled up the bill and headed on our easy rated walk of about 17 kms. After the first hour we wondered whether we had the map upside down as we reached the highest point of the day about 250 metres in elevations from where we started.
The views on both sides were stunning with the Piedmont mountain ranges on one and the now familiar patchwork quilt of vineyard and nut plantations rising up the hillsides.
Again no animals other than a motley lot of mutts protecting houses- seems yesterdays barn held cows are the only we are destined to see.
The trail had a bit on an up and down state for most of the morning, but on lovely earthen which sometimes ducked into eerie forests which were dark and damp.
As the Piedmont mountains disappeared the 4600 metre big cousins in the French Alos started to fill the horizon and draw us closer to our destination.
The farmers were out in all their glory with fields being tended and barrows of picked grapes rumbling along the little country roads . Most of the wineries don’t adopt a cellar door approach and appointments need to be made to secure a tasting.
A couple of hours in we ran across a two cyclists from Switzerland and had a hilltop chat. Ironically they had family in Bundanerg and new all about Bundy rum.
Although we had a packed lunch we headed into Treiso which was just off the trail. Found a bar which was surrounded by the school, sporting fields, playground and the church which is probably the hub of the town around 5 pm. We enjoyed a couple of hydration boosting pilsner before setting of again , The bar was in a little grotto and above was a ‘believe it or not’ story about the grotto being formed to swallow up 7 irreligious brothers. I contend if they can’t name them it might just be another religious Italian myth.
Headed up out of town for some more sawtooth walking before a long downhill run to the flat spot of the day. Right at the intersection was an amazing array of sculptures made solely from wine bottle corks – you might say it came from something a bit easier to swallow.
Not sure if it was a day walking in the sun or we simply lost the plot reading the direction App, but we spent 15 minutes trying to find our way forward including walking into people’s backyards.
Finally found the way forward and beat our way along a local road passing huge yards selling everything from wooden posts to huge concrete blocks,. It was far from the picturesque scenery we had enjoyed all day.
Found our last big hill of the day that led into town and to say we laboured up it would be kind, it was more like staggered. Thankfully one turn had us at the gates of the accommodation where we were greeted by mine host who looked to have spent her life sucking lemons. She was the antithesis of the warm, bubbly and friendly staff who greeted us yesterday.
First floor room with a great view of town with its old castle taking pride of place, if only it had a lift.
The first thing we spied was the pool and for the third consecutive day we donned the swimmers and enjoyed the chilly but refreshing plunge which eased the aches and pains.
Jane left early and I lingered around before heading upstairs later. Unfortunately, I forgot whether we were in room 2 or 3. Now it was my turn for the awkward moment. I chose door 2 because it was ajar and I thought Jane may have left it open. Wasn’t the case in I marched and one of our fellow walkers was propped up in bed. Hopefully “Oops sorry” was apology enough . I spent rest of the afternoon pondering what to say if we cross paths at breakfast. Jane was very supportive saing “you won’t see her again after tomorrow stop worrying’. Fine amight just see if they do a room service breakfast tomorrow.
The best laid plans immediately when we walked out the door to go to dinner with the first person I run into is the bedroom girl- thought ‘ I didn’t know you with your clothes on ‘ might have gone flat so just smiled and moved on .
An uphill walk to the city and most bars and restaurants that were open were pretty well full.
Enjoyed a couple of aperitivo’s before going in search for our preferred restaurant and the long line outside suggested – no booking no dinner’. It was confirmed by maitre de so off a hunting we went. We drew blanks on everything bar a wine bar where a charcuterie board and hazelnut torte was to be our dinner.
Went home full bit disappointed and hopefully on our last night tomorrow we enjoy more success.
The real win of the night was the magnificent sunset -?those red sky at night shepherds should be well pleased.
Tomorrow is a short but lumpy 22 Kms to where we started in Slba snd then off to Turin.
