Tuesday 8th September

Lovran  to Opatija to Volosko and Return

The brain must have known we didn’t have an early start or the little glass of sticky wine is the greatest sleeping aid ever, as it was 830 before the eyes saw daylight.

No rush to get out so it was a leisurely breakfast with not another soul. In fact we think there are only two others here.

Took the opportunity to give the boots a clean in the hotel garden, which was under the watchful eye of mine host who is lovely but might suffer some form of cleaning obsessive condition. They are now spic and span ready to be packed away for Italy in a week or  more.

Todays walk was along a path built clinging the coast which takes in an area often described as the Croatian Riviera. It connects Lovran with the old port town of Volosko passing through the hyped up town of Opatija, it’s somewhere between 10-12 Kms.

The seas were a bit bumpier than yesterday and swirling around the rock beaches and the man made ones outside our hotel. Not a soul swimming other than a couple of seagulls.

It’s amazing the labyrinth of stairways that just lead town to a rocky cove for swimming. Some come off the path and other from private homes and hotels have cave like entrances under the walkway.

The walkway itself was built in late 1800 and named after famed leader Franz Josef. Above the walkway are an amazing array of villas which were built during reign of Austro- Hungarian government. They are truly amazing pieces of architecture. Some are simply opulent, others well kept and sadly some have fallen into states of disrepair. Most are now used as hotels and apartments. The demise was best illustrated by the Grand Hotel Belvedere, with its disarranged sign. flapping awnings and broken windows.

Some more modern ones with fancy pools and restaurants have been or are being built, so there must still be an appetite. Had an interesting chat with a local who suggested a German industrialist had purchased up to 50 homes, hotels and villas along the coast but had not done anything to renovate them.

There are two or three major marina’s with boats ranging from dinghies, to cruisers, yachts and big boys toys. Like in Novigrad there appears to be a pecking order where you moor. At one of the marina’s was a mini submarine. Would be one brave sailor who jumped into that contraption . There are also lots of tiny boat tie up areas.

The pathway itself is beautifully flat and well maintained and today it was surprisingly busy, especially around Opatija which in Aussie terms has a Gold Coast feel about it with cafes , expensive restaurants, souvenir shops, boat trip vendors plus a pop up market, with lots of knock offs being sold. It was definitely busier with younger tourists. One had an ornate shell roof.

The coastline is alive with sculptures and statues ranging from anchors to sea nymphs to politicians and crusty old seamen. I posed next to one and Jane didn’t quite check all aspects you might say.

Along with them is a Hollywood type walk of the stars celebrating the achievements of scientists, writers, industrialist and one particularly memorable tennis player Goran Ivanisevic and Massey Park Golf Lady President.

With so many opportunities to swim, but mostly in open water wondered how young kids were taught. We found a couple of pools which might have been ideal training grounds.

The weather turned a bit windier and whilst nobody was in the water getting wet the swell was hitting the path with a bit more strength and giving people a surprise shower.

There was a huge botanical garden getting lit up for the festive season and adjacent to it was an open air theatre / opera venue. Along the outside wall were paintings of famous people where a unique effect had been created by painting their eyes on smooth tiles and the rest on a roughened texture.

Most beaches had areas for chairs and umbrellas to be used, obviously at a cost. There was a little bit of price gouging going on with rates increasing fourfold as you moved along towards the ritzy areas. An umbrella and two chairs set you back about $A110 for the day. I might have gone for the towel on one of the few pebbly beaches.

Finally rounded the corner into Volosko and found a harbourside cafe where a nice squid ink pasta was washed down with another different Croatian beer.

Considered a return walk for at least 30 seconds before climbing several sets of stairs up into the old town and catch a very full and rapid bus back to Lovran, beating the rain by about 5 minutes.

Whilst sitting at the bus stop a military fighter proceeded to do a series of very low level aerobatics – not sure who he was trying to impress.

The rain did not stop so we did a bit of work on next few days plans and rested some weary bones.

Our evening stroll for a snack was in bucketing rain which continued until our head hit the pillow. Forecast say 50-70 mm over next few days whilst we are in Rijeka and Split.