A weird experience, it’s 800 and not even out of bed – this must be what a proper tourist feels like.
A good hotel, but pretty measly breakfast offering , which was of no concern today when the rest of day was to be a culinary experience. Met a few Aussies in dining room who were doing a similar walk to ours in reverse, but with a few less hills.
First part of day was a general walk around town followed by a tour of the Albert Schweitzer Museum. He was born and lived in this town as a young man.
What an amazing human being, with degrees in Theology, Philosophy and Medicine and a survivor of two World Wars, including incarceration in prison camps, plus his Nobel Peace Prize.
His life story was well depicted in the Museum, his humanitarian work in Gabon where he set up a hospital for the underprivileged was amazing.
It is a shame his general philosophy on peace , kindness and selflessness was not embraced more in todays society.
These statements below from Martin Luther King and Barrack Obama says it all.
We wandered around a bit more and it was interesting that the very limited parking was on a PAYG basis- seems they try to preserve the cultural image of villages by keeping cars on the outskirts of town.
After a little bit of shopping we took the ‘surge price’ taxi to our luncheon engagement at the Restaurant a l’Agneau Blanc (The White Lamb) about 8kms away in Beblenheim.
It was recommended by our mate Tony Simon. When I mention his name to the owner and showed her a picture of when he ate here recently, she rolled her head back and said ‘ ahh I do remember them and the thoughts of talking about my crazy time in Australia as a young woman”.
We ate out in a garden terrace and enjoyed a game based menu of wild boar pate and deer stew. Both dishes were absolutely delicious, which belied their rustic appearance. A very different chocolate Vermicelli dessert finished off the food. On the liquid side we enjoyed a cherry aperitif , local Pinot Noir and a coffee sans whisky and cream – aka an Irish.
Sat and chatted with owner for a while taking in a few sightseeing tips and explicit instructions to deliver hugs and kisses to Tony- not sure if it was his boyish charm or extravagance that won her over.
A bit more of a wander around town before being picked up by our taxi driver and her co driver, a little Bichon cross Maltese, who was very reminiscent of Anna and James mutt at home.
The noticeable thing up until today, was a lack of kids, this changed when we passed several schools and also in Beblenheim where a few parents were pushing little tackers around in prams. Later back in Kaysersburg there were kids everywhere , you had to admire the two ‘little soldiets’ battling imaginary enemies from behind the war memorial.
Even more were two little girls outside the hospital playing dead on the road. Ironically a car whizzed around the corner not long after they sprung back to life.
The ride home was no less expensive , but after that eating experience the care factor was zero and she even got a tip.
A bit ‘tired and emotional’ or maybe slightly inebriated we slumped on the bed and dozed for a while before heading off around town for another expedition to parts not visited before.
The town was almost empty after all of the day trippers had left. The restsurants seem to have a roster for when they open – perhaps a way to share the revenue amongst the community- which might be a little bit of the Schweitzer philosophy rubbing off.
No dinner for us after that lunchtime soirée so we had an ice cream and a stroll out in the burbs before heading home.
Beat the church bell to be out of bed before 700am and get prepared for our 7km uphill walk to the high point in today’s walk. It’s almost a miniature of Christ The Redeemer in Rio.
Packed then soaked up the atmosphere, and most things on the breakfast menu, before bading farewell to a hotel which was deservedly rated as an historical monument.
The first thing we checked was whether the table napkin I inadvertently stole the other night was still tied to the door, as the restaurant was closed yesterday. Voila still there in all its glory and my clean criminal record retained.
The first 200 metres out to the town gate and over the old moat were the only flat bits we walked before 1130am.
We were immediately on a stone pathway winding up through the vineyards, slowly gaining height to give a view of city and surrounds.
As usual the hillsides were covered in vineyards and lots of handpickeers removing grapes or trimming the vines.
Towards the top we met a guy in the vines trimming and had a Franglish discussion about grape growing. He went to great lengths to explain the lot we were in housed the Grand Crus crop, which is top of the crop.
Topped the rise and then tested the thighs a bit more with a meander through more vines- cursing that last croissant I had, remembering that every extra kilo on hips multiplies 7 times in the pounding of the feet.
We struck the first instance of roses being planted at the end of vineyard rows to monitor the mildew- something much more common at home. The trellises were also planted much closer together ensuring no mechanical picking up in these hills.
Reached a semi flat spot on which another 20 person chapel was built back in the 16th century. It was one of many we would pass today. Again it was locked but you could see it’s simplicity through the window grilles.
it was onwards and upwards as we ducked into the forests where filtered sunlight was the order of the day and making an uphill walk s little less taxing, especially on stone covered tracks.
The track started to steepen and we knew we were getting higher when hot air balloons were visible in the distance. The track started to follow the outskirts of a small mountain village, it’s houses all with their own neatly stacked wood piles, probably courtesy of the guys we ran into later in the day doing a spot of log splitting.
There were some pretty impressive estates in the hillside township. Interestingly on the outskirts we sighted our first animals- a herd of well looked after angora goats which made a bit of sense when you saw the woolen products in the souvenir shops.
Once out of the town it was more pushing up hills into the forests where the local kids had built a rough shelter for either humans or the yet to be sighted ‘recently introduced fauna’.
We finally reached a bit of flat land in Galz where there was a botanical garden and picnic area and the first walkers we had encountered all day .
After navigating around them and trying to pick the right trail out of 5 on offer, we started on our zig zag route for the final kilometre of the climb.
We popped off the zig zag about half way up and we’re struck by a clinking sound behind us courtesy of 20 or so Nordic Walkers with their long poles rushing up the hill. Most of them left us in their wake but we all ended up in the same spot eventually – the high point of our walk Monument du Galz.
It was pretty impressive as was the panoramic view, which was enhanced with a winding stair climb inside to the top of the observation tower.
We stopped and took in the view, had a little snack and a chat with the ‘clinkers’ while the shirts dried out.
So after 3 or so hours of uphill and in a time just ahead of expectations we started the downhill decscent. It was on slightly rockier paths to start with, which transitioned slowly into softer forest paths as we headed downward. Passed a few more walkers who were headed up the hill and ended up at a war memorial – shrapnel included- which reflected on the losses in the 42-45 period of war as US and French turned the German forces back.
The spot was also a designated ‘view point’ with a lovely chair providing s spot for lunch, but believe it or not a well positioned tree that completely obscured the view. Planting tree was probably a good idea 10 years ago.
The seat provided a little more significance than we initially realised. After restarting our walk and making about 300 metres down the track, a plaintive call of ‘ I lost my phone’ came from Jane.
First thoughts were it was left at the monument a good hours walk back up the hill. As we returned towards the top Jane remember some squatting exercises she did to relieve the tension in her body and the phone may have popped out then. Much to our delight there it was intact sitting in the rocks.
A much relieved pair struck off down the hill and after about an hour we popped out of the forest onto a concrete path between the vines which took us into another pretty little village called Ammerschwihr. We did a little detour but found little open other than the public toilet.
Got our way back on track and followed our track signs, as well as some for the Way of St James, which goes from Canterbury to Spain. Ironically part of that walk was where we first met.
To our surprise we got a winding kilometre walk back up into the forest and then steeply into the township of Kayserberg, the birthplace of Albert Schweitzer.
The township was much bigger than the others we have visited, but just as beautiful with the different architecture, a myriad of shops, bars and restaurants and it’s own Moulin tapping into the Weiss River. There wasn’t much from a food perspective you could not buy.
Having a strong history of stork nesting, it was no surprise to find them dominant in signage etc
Wandered through to the other end of town to a hotel which was the opposite of last night – a very modern building with great facilities and no sloping roof.
The supposedly helpful mother and daughter owners were not quite up to the mark when it came to arranging dinner and a taxi for tomorrow, for a trip to an off route lunch spot recommended by our Francophile friend Tony Simon.
Got there in the end and then traversed the town before the usual routine of pre dinner drinks and another nice dinner. You could hardly jump over Jane’s serving of ham knuckle my chicken paled into insignificance.
After that meal we waddled back home, knowing tomorrow was a no walk day and a little sleep in possible.
Today we had the luxury of not having to pack our bags and run, as we have a couple of nights here.
The grandness of the building was ever present in the Breakfast Room with the quality of surroundings emulated in the breakfast menus. It would have suited people from most parts of the world.
We both managed to embrace a few cultures and enjoyed the best machine coffee so far.
Grazing over, we packed the bags and popped into the patisserie to get some lunch. I managed to break a few rules at the supermarket, with where you entered and not understanding the spend limit before you could use a card. Spent up a bit more and all was good. Also managed to return the napkin.
Todays loop walk had is up amongst the hillside vineyards and lots of forest walking.
We could have had a little feast on the way by picking from the locals vegetables gardens- one guy had tomato plants about 6 foot high, one with a lone fruit waiting to be plucked ,but temptation was resisted .
We passed the beginning of vineyards that climbed the hillside with vines reading for picking.
Navigation was a bit easier today with the notes not being so complicated. We were soon up into the forest where the only sound you could here was the buzzing of chainsaw and crashing trees.
Needless to say this is an area with a rich forestry history dating back centuries. Up until as late as 2009 timber was still being used in the paper making industry in the area.
There were plenty of stacks of hewn logs and plenty of neatly stacked locals caches along the trail.
The forests were a mix of various tree types and plenty had dropped their leaves for Autumn to provide a soft carpet on which to walk.
Jane and I were still looking for wildlife but the only thing we found was a hunters lair – perhaps that is why fauna is so scarce. It got to the stage where we were making phantom sightings,which were mainly fallen logs.
Jane saw a lynx which was the size of a Sphinx so that didnt count and my fossilized pig received similar acknowledgement.
We decided it was time to take a break in case it was dehydration delerium.
We marched on and soon reached our first official landmark. Le Chappel de Frere’s. It was as big as the average double garage and had been built for a hermit, then destroyed and rebuilt by a rich landowner. A huge crucifix stood high on the hill behind it.
The doors were locked but you could peek through the grille and see the altar and seats for about 10 people. If the Visitors Book was any indication it was a week since anybody else had visited and signed, which might indicate it’s remoteness.
After lunching here we had our first navigational error and slogged our way up a steep timber trail before deferring to the app and realising we were headed in the wrong direction.
Reset the bearings and headed off towards our destination of Zimmerbach,which other than being known as s small hamlet, had a Michelin Star restaurant – unfortunately closed on Wednesday.
This seems to be the trend here with many places closing Monday and Tuesday and or Wednesday. Being towards end of season probably doesn’t help.
Thought we had our first lynx sighting , but it turned out to be a white cat who was either feral or stayed a long way from home.
The gentle downward path was covered in boar rooting patches – they were one animal we didn’t want to encounter.
We soon reached the outskirts of Zimmerbach and it was exactly as described small with a closed restaurant. They must still be doing a great job as the Michelin status was awarded again in 2023. The menu looked amazing, but expensive.
It was quaint , in particular the school and several traditional buildings.
We were soon out of town on narrow tracks winding through the vineyards where there was plenty of hand picking going on high up the hillside. 6 or 7 pickers all in a line were filling bins which a little tractor would carry down and dump in the huge bins ready to go to the winery.
The huge spire in the distance signalled we were getting closer to home, but there was still more vineyards to cross. They must have great faith in God helping the harvest as there were crossed and crucifixes regularly through the vineyards.
We ended up on the same track for the last leg of the journey and my lone tomato had disappeared – ah the missed opportunity.
Finally reached town after 4 and a bit hours a lot fresher than when we arrived yesterday. Unlike yesterday we saw no other walkers, but did cross paths with lots of cyclists.
Booked our restaurant for dinner and checked into Tourist Office to see if the old tradition of the Night Watchman walking the streets at 1000 pm was still happening.
It was a late , long and lingering dinner to keep us up that late. The food – chicken as a main and dessert starting with a K was the best on your to date The Gouverts Traminer was equally delicious. Jane raved over her beef cheeks and Crème Brulee.
After 45 minutes of doing little we joined the French speaking Night Watchman with about 60 others for part of his rounds in cold conditions , listening to his patter all in French. Based on crowd reaction it was funny.
One street was enough, before heading to bed before facing a long and steep walk in 26 degree heat tomorrow.
We woke up to sunny skies and a 650 metre hill to climb to start our walking odyssey in the Alsace.
There was a slightly smaller mountain to climb before leaving it was the breakfast buffet and 40 ravenous Swiss tourists who lobbed before us.
The fare on offer was typical of France with more sweet than savoury to choose from, plus an added touch of champagne – who doesn’t want to drink at 730 in the morning, if your initials are JW.
As usual the bread is sensational and after 5 days I reckon I am close to a couple of metres or more.
Boots on and off we went wandering through the little village and out into the vines with the three castles an ever present beacon on the hill.
The vineyards were full of workers picking this year crop and trimming the vines. It was interesting that red and white grapes were grown in alternate rows in some fields. The slopes of vineyards made mechanical picking impossible.
It was a long steep climb up the hillside with the guide book and it’s copious instructions testing our navigation skills. Thankfully there was some divine help with several crucifixes on the trail and we only had a couple of backtracks in first hour.
There was a great view in every direction with the mist hanging over the Rhine Valley to our east and a sea of vineyards in every other direction.
Soon we were up into the beautiful forests on a mixture of stony and earthen paths, with plenty of intersecting paths making direction finding a little hazardous. The distances on the notes were a bit confusing and there were plenty of times we stood looking at each other quizzically , shrugging our shoulders and guessing a direction.
It eventually bought us undone at the bottom of the steep climb to the top, where we ended up taking a route that sounded more like a song from the 60’s – a long and winding road. It did eventually get us to a carpark near,but not at the top, which probably added a kilometer or so.
A short sharp sprint to the top and there it was – 3 dilapidated castles with views in all directions. A group of volunteers were working diligently to repair steps to enable you to scramble up to the castles.
The number of hazard signs indicate the level of amateur rebuilding and lack of safety. Jane managed a drink from the well- not champagne obviously.
In the distance atop another hill was the next castle , the renovated one. Thankfully most of the route across was on beautiful forest paths , making walking in filtered sunlight and a slight breeze very pleasant.
We had read about the abundant fauna that had been reintroduced in recent years, with regular signs explaining about each of them. They included red squirrels, wild boar, lynx and wild deer. Other than a giant carved squirrel Jane cuddled up to, we saw none. Even human life was non existent.
After a good 90 minutes we reached the castle carpark and as usual castles are all perched on a hilltop , so we slogged our way 600 metres along a steep road.
It was worth it, not only were the 360 degree views spectacular , the castle looked great from the outside. Lots of people were outside and a peep at sign on the door explained why – CLOSED FOR LUNCH OPEN 100PM.
It didn’t faze us much, so we plonked ourselves against a tank in the shade and dined on the sumptuous luch our hotel provided.
We paid our dues and spent an hour exploring a well redeveloped building which blended the old with the new. The horde of schoolkids on an excursion ran rampant on the ramparts recreating history and ignoring every KEEP OUT sign – much to the disapproval of teachers and staff.
After our fill of history we were off on a long toe busting trip to the bottom, again having a running battle with instructions. Thankfully, we loaded a non-internet dependent mapping app which got us on the straight and narrow
After a whole lot of twists and turns we could see our destination , Turkheim , and we wandered through vineyards to reach a more austere town, before crossing the river and heading through the gates into another fairyland, albeit not as pretty as Eguisheim. Through another crowded town square we found our 15century hotel.
What a step back in history with huge dining rooms and sitting rooms adorned with artworks and artifacts. Our room was furnished similarly, with the usual navigation issues with low and sloping ceilings.
We did a wander around town taking in its charm before a bit of rehydration and a trip to dinner.
While the crowd was smaller than last night the place was full and you could not jump over the Chicken Cordon Bleu I had. It was definitely a one course dinner. Jane’s veal was not far behind.
We waddled off home only to find I has somehow stolen the table napkin. Will have to go back tomorrow with an apology, as I was too knackered to head back.
Have to say it was a slightly easier first day than last years in Turkey. Tomorrow is a short 4 hours loop walk.
Today we started to get ready to move into walking mode. Headed off for the Laundromat duties early and then off to the Cathedral for one last effort.
Despite some 100 people beating us to the punch we finally got in to view the interior. Not quite as ornate as many others it was huge and beautifully decorated. The local priests would have kept fit just walking up the stairs to the altar.
The three notable features are the enormous stained glass window , organ and the astrological clock.
Whilst the first two are beautiful in their own right calling the other one a clock does it a total injustice. It is one of the times where the word unique is appropriate.
It is an invention that has to be seen to understand how many things other than the time it calculates. The clock part itself has an array of features that operate on the 15 30 45 and 60 minute marks, ranging from bell ringing figures to a full parade of 12 deciples on the hour. It also calculates , days , months, years, lunar and solar events , seasons and religious days such as Easter Sunday. To be honest there were so many features we had to buy a book to get the full gamut.
As fable has it they were so intent on preserving its uniqueness they poked out the eyes of the designer so he could not replicate it. That might a little fact checking.
Being a place of worship there is a consciousness about silence and several times when the crowd got a bit raucous they played an automated SHOOSH – which did the trick.
So all that waiting and trying was worth the effort and we happily set off to the hotel to collect the luggage and head for the train to Colmar and bade farewell to Strasbourg.
Arrived at station about 10 minutes before train departed and another swift ride in a very comfortable fast train had us there in about 25 minutes.
Into an immaculate Mercedes cab, whose driver was particularly helpful , and we soon arrived in Eguisheim. I had to pinch myself that it was not a dream and we were in some fairy tale – it was a town straight from a Grimm Brothers book.
Our hotel was able to house us immediately in a room 3 times the size of Strasbourg , but with lots of beams and a sloping ceilings. One in the bathroom was particularly challenging and required gymnastics to undertake ablutions.
The ceiling had a nice piece of artwork above the bed depicting birds and their nests. It was in stark contrast to the mural in our previous converted convent hotel depicting drunken , slobbering Monks leering at and touching up maidens. Obviously an owner with a quirky sense of humour.
We headed out into the streets to take in the wonderland in a town stuck in the middle of vineyards, with many cellars and wineries plonked in the middle of town. Again the architecture was amazing with houses dating back to the 13th century. The area is famous for storks and lots of nests were on chimneys- some so big houseowners had reinforced them in preparation for the storks annual pilgrimage to the same nest.
The town square’s bars and restaurants were filled with a mix of day trippers, bikers and walkers – all doing a great trade.
We slipped into a winery for a wine degustation sampling a few, but unable to get a glassful, as none are licenced and they rely on bottle sales.
After a bit more wandering around it was back home to prepare our walking kit for tomorrow to tackle the hills behind the town where we will visit 3 castles on route to our next village.
Ended up in a nearby bar for pre dinner drinks sampling beer, wine and cheeses before heading back to the hotel for our dinner which is part of the trip package.
Sat down to dinner with a few others in an intimate environment, until two things changed the ambiance of the room. Firstly, it seemed someone was having pre dinner coffee only to find someone had lent against the coffee machine and had coffee cascading all over the place. A bit non-plussed the offender skulked off to their table. Jane remarked ‘ I thought only you would do something like that’ .
Next it was a band of aging Swiss on a bus tour who marched in- all 40 of them.They occupied every spare seat in the place.
Dinner was an entree similar to a Caesar salad, followed by sauerkraut, portk, Frankfurt, with a couple of potatoes. The size of the serving would have fed several. Left a lot to save room for the lovely fruit pie. Hydrated with a small beer, served in a glass the size of a vase.
It was an early start for the ‘proper ‘ tourists today, with no boot walking it was a chance to take in the charm and elegance of Strasbourg and its environs.
Sunday seemed to be a little quieter, well that was until we reached the Cathedral area where both churchgoers and tourists filled the square.
The beautifully attired Church Wardens we’re making sure it was only worshippers and not sightseers who got in, so armed with the map we did a circumlocution of the town in hope of returning to get a glimpse between masses.
By the end of walk there were not many red points of interest on the map we did not get to visit, in a city where identity still remains confused after years of annexation by the French and Germans.
Even street signs bear names in both languages.
The walk around the canal with its locks and barrages and plenty of boat trippers was a great experience.
There were lots of organised tours doing the rounds but we managed to dodge and weave our way around and get an understanding of how the city evolved. Whilst we walked the route many took the oppprtunity to see things by water – a delight we experienced later in the day.
The river had a lock system made for the boat and a separate run right along side, where fish made their way down rapids.
The four pillars around the barrages were the only ones left out of the original 50 or so, which used to fortify the city.
The prettiest area was undoubtedly Little France or a touch of Venice as the locals say. Once a flourishing industrial area with abattoirs and tanneries it’s been transformed into a picture postcard setting.
Story has it that the area was named Little France after the soldiers bought the Germans an unwelcomed ptesent in the form of Syphillis ( forgive spelling it’s one disease I have never contracted) which spread rapidly in the brothels that serviced the manual workers.
The little back streets were full of quaint houses and quirky bars and restaurants , along with a park where I got a photo with one Albert Schweitzer- the Nobel Prize winner in 1952.
We gradually wend our way back to the Cathedral , but with no luck as there was a midday mass. So it was off to the boat dock to tour the city by boat. With 140 crammed on one launch and 15 different languages it was an eclectic gathering.
From the water it gave a different perspective, but we also a lot of information from the audio about the evolution of Strasbourg. The trip took us to the other more modern end of town where the unique buildings housing the European Parliament and International Court of Human Rights were.
Also down there was social housing to die for – the NIMBY’s of Sydney had better beware if it’s used as a model for the Minns Govt.
The boat trip over, it was another failed attempt on the Cathedral, so we decided on a bit of border hopping by taking the tram over the Rhine into what could only be described as an austere precinct in Germany, when compared to Strasbourg. The place was deserted and trying to find a lunch spot proved difficult.
Luckily on our way back we came across a Greek influenced restaurant with a very broad menu. Jane opted for the scampi and I went for what I thought was steak. Can’t imagine the offering ever lived the life of a bovine. We both scratched our head and I dined out on the generous helping of vegetables – chips. Sorrows of the unknown food were drowned out by a very long and cold pilsner.
Back on the trail again and we crossed the Freedom Bridge, which is a two lane construction with separate lanes for walkers and bikes, though not many people observed the directions.
Both sides of the river had huge tracts of parklands with very few people. The Rhine was a little more active with a luxury river cruiser plying it’s way southward to destinations unknown.
Hopped back on the tram, back to Cathedral for another luckless visit. Decided on some souvenir shopping with a wide selection of Brothers Grimm characters in the form of magnets and Xmas decorations. Finished it off with a visit to the gingerbread store to stock up on a few trail treats for the upcoming week.
Brief late afternoon nap was followed by a walk into town for a light snack, which ended up down near the railway station where a French flat bread pizza and a couple of Aperol Spritz finished the day.
On the way home we walked past a pretty amazing sculpture of a girl climbing a flagpole- a little 5 year old tacker walking with us unsuccessfully tried to emulate the feat.
Back home had all intentions to watch Rugby World Cup. but thankfully fell asleep.
Twas the sleep of the dead, with the alarm waking us from glorious slumber at 700am to ready us for the 2.5 hour 400 kilometre train ride from Paris to Strasbourg.
Having remastered the train system it was several Metro rides to the main terminal Gare du Est.
We filled up with the usual Jenny Craig unendorsed breakfast of pastries and coffe then sat around in a crowded concourse before boarding a train that never seemed to end.
After a minor altercation about seating we were politely told we were in the wrong carriage and with our tail between our legs headed back to the correct seats.
At 200 Kms an hour it’s difficult to take in the beauty of the countryside, which was littered with small farming communities and equally as many windmills.
Well so much for the 2.5 hours, the 398 Kms disappeared in 1.45 hours and we arrived at a very grand Strasbourg train terminal. The grandness of the terminal was matched by the buildings and square that was in front of us..
The 20 minute walk towards the hotel has us treading along a cobblestone path abutting the canal, with an amazing mix of German and French architecture.
There was surprisingly few people around , other than cyclists who politely let you know if you dared to encroach their bike lane.
Distracted by the bell tinkling we missed our hotel and after retracing our steps found the converted convent down a side road.
No luck with an early entry this time, so we toddled off towards the best landmark in town – the 152 l metre high spire of the Cathedral. Based on its burnt out cousin in Paris, the Notre Dame, it was once the tallest structure in the world and now ranks the 6th highest church in the world.
It is a magnificent gothic structure with its own echoing bell system and an ornate sundial and clock. We could not get an inside visit due to mass being celebrated.
The square in which it sat was full of old houses, bars, restaurants and souvenir shops filled to the brim with every Brothets Grimm character you could name and in every form. I am sure Jane will wander back to buy the obligatory Christmas decoration.
It was interesting that there was an informal prayer session outside the Cathedral. I had my ear tweaked by a beautiful young lady saying it was in protest at the Pope becoming too involved in political issues.
I am thinking my offhanded comment that ‘ he had plenty to deal with inside the church’ might not have been the response she was seeking and she swiftly left and took a knee with the fellow worshippers.
Hunger was getting the best of us so a late lunch nearby was the order of the day. Rain unfortunately had us head inside but we both enjoyed the lunch , drinks and dessert.
Whilst kids are frowned on in restaurants, pets are not and our neighbour shared his lunch with Fido. Dog also acted as an impromptu vacuum cleaner under all tables.
After a Nanna Nap we revisited the city and the night time version was no disappointment. After wandering the streets and soaking up the view and atmosphere we headed home down the tree covered path along the canal listening to the crowd assembled at the Opera House, all dressed in their finery.
The day has arrived and it’s off to the airport in an Uber with a clueless driver who managed to take the wrong tunnel exit and turn a 25 minute trip into 45.
A slight delay, which fortuitously reduced the layover time in Saigon -!so we thought- then it was plain sailing all the way to Saigon with an Aussie female pilot giving us a smooth ride.
As has been the experience in the past with Vietnam Air the food and service was fabulous. The 8.5 hour trip ticked away pretty quickly.
Spent next 6 hours wandering around airport and lolling in the Lounge . An old friend advised that a mate of his was on the same flight and likely in the lounge. After a few efforts to find him I sat down defeated or more appropriately fearful of being accused of stalking.
A 45 minute delay saw us head off at 11.45 and without any thought of eating it was into the sleepwear and head down for 7 of the next 12 hours.
After either cracking a few ribs or tearing rib cartleges on the Sunday before it was a painkiller assisted sleep.
The remainder of the trip was a couple of funny movies and reading trip notes for the walk- boy are we in for some glorious scenery, food and alcohol.
Arrived in Paris to a cool and cloudy 11 degrees at 630am and were surprisingly through the welcoming exercise at airport in less than an hour.
Sorted out the train tickets and we were on the commuter train for the 35 minute ride to Paris. It seems Parisian trains and us have a troubled existence. We got halfway and then 10 minutes of French announcements led to an evacuation of the train and a mass exodus to another platform.
What could only be akin to a cattle draft in Aust saw a disorganised rabble, pass a woman being treated on floor of the train, then head for a narrow stairway where 600 into 4 did not quite work. Some there would have done a World Cup rugby play proud barging their way through. How nobody got trampled is amazing.
The downward journey was followed by an equally robust climb of the stairs to the other platform. We old people with beavy suitcases were not given any guest privileges.
Now on the new platform the 600 or so joined the original throng and space was at a premium. To improve the experience it started to bucket down with rain. But wait there is more – another announcement- ALL IS WELL GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL TRAIN.
It was like hitting the replay button , only this time some lunatics added to the excitement by running across the tracks – much to the annoyance of the rail officials.
Round 2 was a little more pleasant as somebody gave us a hand up with luggage and we passed the ailing passenger sitting in a wheelchair who looked remarkably healthy.
Wet and bedraggled we got back on the train, navigated a couple of Metro changes and arrived at our hotel about 200 metres from the Arc d’Triomphe , hoping to leave our bags and return later to book in. As luck would have it the room was available and after 28 hours we were settled into our room.
We headed out for a walk and then got dolled up for our lunch with Anna and James, plus the boys. to celebrate her 40th borthday.
Lunch involved a punt ride to an island which housed an old hunting lodge now converted to restaurant in a setting to die for. That said at €100 a bottle for celebratory champagne dying may have been cheaper.
The French seem to frown upon youngsters in a restaurant, but Fred was beautifully behaved and Henry survived with some screen time and some relay walks around the gardens between courses.
Anna’s candle for her cake was more a firework imported from Canberra- there was definitely no blowing this one out. Suitably fed and watered it was a return boat trip and a 40 minute walk back to home.
A little Nanna Nap of an hour and we headed over to near the magnificently decorated Eiffel Tower to do a spot of childminding whilst Anna and James had their 3 hours of kid free birthday celebration.
The two flagging babysitters nodded their way through the 3 hours in the 31st floor hotel room with sweeping views over Paris before stumbling through the backlots to a train and home after a memorable day.
Whilst we were heading east on the train to Strasbourg the clan were headed to the south of France for a family holiday- all 5 bags and 2 kids plus stroller . We could only wish them good luck.
On a typical dreary day in London we set off from Earls Court for the City. The usual myriad of changes on the tube had us around the London Bridge and we explored the Burrough Markets which was a food lovers paradise with every conceivable fruit, cheese, meat and alcohol product in from all over the world.
It was packed and finding somewhere to sit and eat was difficult, until we found a grandstand arrangement which changed patrons every 30 minutes or so as they polished off lunch.
Looked at several museums and the usual attractions, with most full of eager tourists, despite the weather.
Wandered down past Knightsbridge and Kensington where all of the top end stores,including Harrods, sell their wares, at somewhat hefty prices.
Decided to explore the local district a bit more and walked the last 4 Kms home.
Evening was spent with a friend of Jane’s at the exclusive Hurlingham Club for a Guy Fawkes bonfire and spectacular fireworks display.
Club is pretty toffy and a member of the family virtually has to die for others to get elevated to full membership.
We had a slight hiccup with ticket numbers and had to defer to the old drive-in trick of 60-70’s of one youngster in the boot.
It was a great night with around 4,000 people in attendance.
Caught a couple of late night underground trains home and went to bed excited about tomorrow’s visit to watch Tottenham v Liverpool.
Sunday 6th
A miserable wet and rainy morning greeted us , but local streets were pretty busy early with the local derby between Arsenal and Chelsea due to kickoff around 12.
We rang to book for a Sunday Roast at a local pub and were told it would be extremely busy, but managed a seat.
Dressed for the occasion, but found my pants had shrunk or I had put on more beef than expected- that was until Jane asked if I had see her pants in the wardrobe. That said two weeks of not trekking and eating everything and anything has certainly meant any loss had been recovered with interest.
Maybe everyone went to the game or stayed at home because of the rain as there was only 6 people in the pub. Amazingly they did not have tv on and the patrons didn’t seem too worried about the result. Because of the expected crowd we were stuck at n a corner nook.
Food was just ok , but going to the big match with catering suppled it didn’t worry us.
Headed to the game about 230 in steady rain and the underground was packed with supporters. The 30 minute walk from station to stadium was a sea of white and blue, with the red of Liverpool popping up only occasionally.
Tottenham town has an interesting demographic with a swag of restaurants and food stores from most African countries. The other African centric stores were grooming centres – could only presume they did shaves or braiding.
The new stadium was magnificent and our level 3 seats gave a great view of the game. The majority of Liverpool fans were stationed just below us and be they small in numbers they were huge in voice, often drowning out the locals.
The skills of the Premier League players players was incredible. The ground was like a bowling green and hardly a mark showed, even when players clattered into each other.
The pre match practice was pretty intense and flowed over into the game. A well worked goal
and a gift from Tottenham’s defence gave the Red’s a deserved half time lead.
We deferred to the food area and offering was pretty ordinary – a small meat pie and a few potatoes, plus the smallest bottle of beer imaginable.
Back on the pitch Tottenham could have scored three goals in first five minutes, but erratic shooting and two hitting the post kept Liverpool in front.
Harry Kane reduced the margin to one, but despite a concerted blitz on goal Liverpool held on.
It was a fabulous experience to see two such prestigious clubs play a great brand of football in an amazing stadium. It was definitely a Bucket List tick off.
Hung around whilst crowd disappeared and ‘feasted’ on the dessert – a bag of popcorn.
Got the obligatory photo and then joined the throng heading to the station, with roads absolutely packed with security guards. From my observation there was no altercations, just lots of disgruntled Spurs supporters picking next weeks team based on their player assessment.
Trains were again packed on the way home and the day ended as it started wet and windy.
Laid back in bed reading the match programme and reflecting on just how skilled the players were and what a great day it was.
Monday 7th
Another wet and windy day greeted us and with lunch plans cancelled and visit to the filming of Call The Midwife called off over security concerns and secret squirrel stuff about the next few episodes, we decided on a day at Kempton Park Jumps racing.
Travel plans were slightly disrupted by a rail strike and the ineptitude of the ticket seller, but we managed to find a train and enjoy a 40 minute trip to the course.
A lovely park side course with the track disappearing behind a forest, it had grass and all weather tracks which were in great condition. The ran both hurdle and steeplechase events.
A crowd of about 700 devout punters with an average age of 60. Had plenty of punting opportunities with a band of about 10 SP bookies in the outside betting ring and inside was the Tote and several corporate betting companies.
We got in for the Senior’s price of £13 each and managed a table in public area which we shared with 2 ladies who were keen punters with a Bucket List to visit every track in UK.
The number of races was nearly matched by the number of pints we all consumed, but after 7 races , with pretty small fields it was nice to finish in front.
In between drinks we had the traditional fish and chips with mushy peas.
Jumps racing here is very popular and the jockeys definitely look after horses welfare, often pulling them up if they had no chance.
At 430 it was all over and we headed for the station- a simple platform with no staff or amenities and a ticket machine and display board advising the next few trains were cancelled. Waiting 45 minutes in cold damp conditions after our beer consumption meant a few trips to the bushes.
Back on the train and back to n town in time to grab a quick bite to eat and head to the theatre precinct. We saw Came From Away which is the play/ musical based on the little town in Newfoundland – Gander- where all the planes were diverted during the 911 incident. It was a really entertaining show put on by a talented bunch of actors.
After an exhausting day it was back home to have our last sleep overseas.
Tuesday 8th
Up early on another cold and windy day with more rain predicted.
Checked out and headed to town for our last day of sightseeing. Ended up at Big Ben, then over to the Look neon Eye for first ride of the day. Most of ride was in howling wind and rain, but you still got a birds eye view of the City.
Down through the Xmas Markets and along waterfront near Whitehall and New Scotland Yard and Westminster Cathedral. Then it was up past Green Park and Pall Mall with a distant view of the palace. It’s a pit like a human game of Monopoly. Popped our head into the Ritz Hotel and Fortnum and Mason the culinary suppliers to the late Queen.
Then we headed to Chelsea for lunch with Jane’s friend and her godson who is in Call The Midwife.
After a nice catch up it was back to the hotel to collect bags and head for tube to the airport.
Got halfway and train was stopped due a fire at the next station and then they announced it was terminating. We swapped trains about 3 times before finally getting back onto the right one and getting to the airport with about 2.5 hours to spare.
Through the customs and security with the usual holdups and then a little shopping before a visit to the Lounge.
Wednesday 9th and Thursday 10th
Plane left about an hour late and I had a repeat of my Turkish Bath oil treatment when the poor hostie dropped a bottle of salad dressing down my back when serving an adjacent customer.
Pretty ironic when the other hostess serving me asked if I wanted dressing on my salad. The little voice over my shoulder said “ he may have had enough’ and explained the position. She apologised every time she went past.
Afte 4 movies and 6 hours sleep we arrived in Singapore with me showing signs that the duck I had for lunch might be playing havoc with the tummy, so had to be careful what I ate on the leg to Sydney. it turned out to be dry bread and black tea, so no savoring the delights of Business Class.
No sleep, just a few movies on the way back, plus regular bathroom visits and we arrived back home at 700am.
Customs took exception to a couple of things we bought back from Turkey, which seemed contrary to things we had read about what was kosher.. At least the tooth brush cleaned boots and poles past muster.
So there emdeth some 50 odd days of an odyssey that won’t be forgotten.
Gobble Up Turkey 