Gobble Up Turkey

Monday 28th October 2024

In Matera

For the second morning in a row it was a pea soup start with the 700 am sun a dim beacon in the sky.

Had been an interrupted sleep as Jane had woken during the night and thought she had a severe eye problem when she tried to check the time on her phone and it was a haze. After a mild panic she realised sun glasses do mute the light.

Getting used to these terrace breakfasts, albeit in the full sight of the builders doing a major renovation next door where three houses are being converted to a hotel.

No coffee as we were off on our walk down and across the valley. After 300 metres down a steep and slippery path with a big drop off, my courage failed me and we called the walk off. It wasn’t worth the risk so close to going home.

Back up the track and down the Passion   of Christ  stairway to the main square below the Rock Church. Met a couple of Aussies from Port Hesfland who were holidaying but also sussing out towns in Italy where the Government is encouraging people to take up residence and enjoy 7% tax rates on all income. 

Whilst in one square we were gobsmacked to run into two of our walking companions from Salento who had changed plans and decided a visit to Matera was a must – can’t help but second that opinion. It was a bit reminiscent of last years stay in Rocamadour.

We met them later in the morning for a coffee in a now very busy main square before they headed off to catch a train and we explored the Barisano area. 

Managed to find a restaurant for dinner and then enjoy one of the best experiences in Matera –  Cave Casa. It was an old underground quarry that had now been converted into a theatre. There was a fabulous video on its construction and the celebration of St Mary’s Day on July 2nd each year.

She is revered in the town and one of the major activities is a procession through town where a huge float carrying a paper mache religious scene is towed through the streets. It’s a magnificent piece of workmanship which experiences an unusual fate. At the end of the route hundreds of people clamber onto the float and tear it apart because a piece guarantees a year good luck , as  the story goes.  It’s a bit reminiscent of the annual event in Gubbio. Both are worth a Google.

The cave also had some interesting art.

It was back onto the streets to find a quaint lunch spot where best lunch on tour was taken. Naturally a dairy finish was necessary and this time it was flavoured yoghurt .

Found another area of town to explore where the flash 5 star hotels are housed. Most have little courtesy vans that move customers luggage around to avoid the cobblestone tango.

Interestingly many don’t have views like ours, but the price we paid was the relentless up and down on the stairs – to be honest it was worthwhile given our facilities.

Had a little siesta, wrote some blogs and caught up with news. 

The evening dinner was quite a walk. On the way we struck about 30 Japanese struggling to their 5 star hotel with luggage in tow – they must have missed the memo.

There was the great flow of locals enjoying the evening stroll and large groups of old men standing below their ‘ tree of knowledge’ solving the problems of the world. 

We ventured up into the new town with its modern high rise buildings and high end shops. Despite its history of poverty things seem to have changed.

Headed down to our cave restaurant, where US tourists seemed to dominate. Like other international tourists who don’t do the research on places they visit comments like ‘ why is the menu in Italian’ and ‘why is there so much pasta on the menu’ make you giggle.

Our waiter was the master of upselling and what we thought was an explanation of what was available ended up with three starters. It was a struggle to get through the main. With a 10 minute gap between mine and Jane’s arriving we were almost hoping they had forgotten . They hadn’t it was just assigned to the wrong table.

No room for dolci , the only space left was in the wallet.

Walked home in much quieter, but mistier , surroundings other than a bar where kids we passed on the way over who were celebrating graduation with a street opera were still at it singing and knocking back the cocktails.

Took our last look from the Doumo square before heading down the stairs, passing a sculpture of a cooper making wine barrels -(which was appropriate given amount of wine we had consumed) , for our last sleep in Matera and  penultimate sleep in Italy.

Sunday 27th September 2024

In Matera

We woke to a pea soup fog surrounding us, with the sun trying its hardest to burst through on the first day of no Summer Time in Europe.

Brekky on the terrace,courtesy of the host, where we could again take in the magnificent panorama across the valley and Sassi.

The hill on far right is where they filmed crucifiction scene in Passion of Christ

Had a walking tour booked for 1030, to visit the rock churches and a recreated cave house, plus a general walk around the town. Ended up a bit of a Keystone Cops event with no sign of the guide between 1010 and 1030. We were advised to try the square up the hill. Another miss and finally a few frantic phone calls and we were eventually connected with guide and two others.

Enjoyed a very informative tour about the towns rich old and recent history. The fact that people were still living in cave houses with no services up until 1958 was astounding, especially when you saw the conditions they and their animals lived in.

It took an act of parliament to turn Matera from a place of shame (guides words) to now attain UNESCO status. Most of the cave houses have been totally converted into hotels. B and B’s , restaurants and cafes. Some of the hospitality places tumble down three and four layers.

There is still one batch of original cave houses that will never be lived in again but will be converted to an open museum.

The churches we visited still had very visible fresco’s. No photography was allowed , so memories are all we have. The cave house was fully preserved, stuffed donkey and all. The conditions were far from ideal with high levels of infant mortality and average adult lifespan under 50.

On the tour we established that our house is about 20 metres from path where the Passion of Christ cross bearing snippet was filmed.

Tour ended at Rock Church and we were left to our own devices, so we ended up with lunch at the Stone Age ristorante where the terrace looked down onto the Nepalese swing bridge at the bottom of the valley.

Swung our way up towards the castle but were temporarily waylaid by the laundromat so we could ensure enough socks and undies for the rest of the trip.

With hundred’s heading up the hill in tour groups we agreed we had seen enough castles and headed back into town to work our way through more fascinating nooks and crannies, many filled with construction equipment as the B and B conversion continued. With 500,000 visitors a year more accommodation couldn’t go astray.

Could not miss another memory of the Camino Santiago walk when we noticed a scallop shell embedded in a wall. It was the emblem of the walk.

On our usual Xmas decoration diversion we finally solved or added another level of intrigue to the fat lady doll story. Our opera singer version could not have been further from the truth. They were actually representative of feeding mothers and were in real life made of cheese and used as a dummy for babies. Not sure what they did for the lactose intolerant kids- probably just let them scream.

Made our obligatory visit to Tourist information to enquire about the walk into the valley and other tours which were available. Early walk tomorrow looked the go.

Wanted to visit the ancient cistern – old water source for town similar to the one one Istanbul- but like everything else 130 to 330 was siesta.

The crowds were much bigger today and tour groups had swelled from 10-15 to 30+. The biggest queue for any location was the WC, where you paid 50 cents or a cent for every person on the line to trundle down three floors at a very slow rate. Even though it was 10/1 women to men there was no filtering and they of the weak bladder brigade were notably fidgety.

With 150 churches in town it was hard to avoid visiting a few. The greater number were very ornate with multiple altars, ceiling fresco’s and silver and gold artefacts to symbolise the wealth of the church. Several had front door ushers to either collect an entry fee or only let you in if you were attending a service.

Interesting to note that one of the old palaces previously owned by Malvaise family had fallen into disrepair and was for sale, with sign dated 2021. Surprising with the accommodation / construction boom it hadn’t been snapped up.

The Sassi area has very stringent vehicle access rules and the most prevalent vehicles are pushbikes, motor bikes and 3 wheeled tuk tuks. Commercial vehicles are virtually banned between 10 and 4. 

If you enjoy step walking on shiny limestone this is the place for you. It would be a nightmare in the wet. It was interesting to see  a food delivery person and a courier on foot. It would certainly keep you fit if your knees were not shot from three walking tours- crabwise is our walking style of choice.

Fell in line with the locals about 445 and had a little kip before heading across town for dinner. It was the time of day I like best in Italy when all of the family enjoy passeggiata when they stroll the streets catching up with friends. The families outnumbered the tourists. 

It’s very interesting in the morning when it’s the wise old owls who sit outside solving the problems of the world for an hour or so over a single coffee.

Basically it was only bars open, until 730, except the one we had chosen- it only served lunch . Undeterred we wander up and down passing many cave restaurants burrowing into the hillside before selecting a street level one, filled mainly with locals.

Had a great meal and was served by a Freddy Mercury lookalike who got a great kick out of the inference. The crowds had thinned a little as we walked home again trying to snap some photos to reflect what an amazing city it is by night.

Saturday 26th October2024

Alberobello to Matera

No accidents negotiating the way out of bed overnight, so we were fit and ready to have a sweet delight breakfast around at the corner cafe.

Snuck off for a final walk through the Trulli village, which was already getting busy, before we jumped in a cab for the hour or so trip to Matera.

Seems the farmers have been busy with acre after acre of ploughed fields which look far less rocky than those down south.

Passed through a couple of quite large towns including one hosting a military airfield which is probably where our blitzing jet pilot came from.

Arrived in Matera to be dropped of at what was the wrong gate but boy what a fantastic view of both the Sassi and the valley along which a lot of vacated cave houses were located. There was a touch of Cappadocia about the place.

After a bit of reconnaissance we found we could limit the haul over cobblestones and catch a mini bus to the bottom of the 400 stairs leading to our apartment.

Gave the wheels and handle of our cases a good workout as we clunked our way up the stairs looking for the white gate into  our property.

Got in and found another 20 steep steps onto a huge terrace which like our drop of point gave a magical view. It was perfect as was the oversized , interestingly decorated,  apartment and huge kitchen and dining area. The host had even left enough food to feed an army.

Unpacked and then set off on a tour around town, where going uphill on more stairs and then going down on flat surfaces was the order of the day. As usual churches dominated the scene. Although grand palaces and residences converted into luxury hotels were not far behind. The local Archbishop’s digs were pretty impressive.

The cafes and restaurants were abundant and adding ‘taxes’ for service,views, music and proximity to landmarks into menu prices. Struck an interesting banner outside on restaurant.

Crowds were modest and spruikers were doing their best to entice customers into every sort of outlet. Not as many were closed as other towns, so presuming Matera, supposedly the 3rd oldest city in the world, enjoys tourist trade year round. Think the 3rd oldest might be a bit like the ‘ Marco Polo was born here’ claims.

Stopped for lunch in a small square and watched a young guy trying the impossible in Italy- getting passer by Italians to eat pizza with pineapple on top. Even the local Carbinieri passed up a free meal.

Had the biggest glass of beer on tour with lunch before we headed for the main square looking for the Tourist Information. Foolish move at 230 –  it was closed for siesta between 130 and 330. 

Sat around for a while watching the world go by including the worlds worst street performer – a guy pretending to be a Transformer- who got no donations in 30 minutes and packed up, probably looking for an audience more appreciative of his talents.

Back at TI and found out getting from the accommodation to a train station on Tuesday will be complicated and costly, plus being another test of the luggage wheels. It was homework for later in the day to organise.

A bit more touring and taking in the history, plus a little bit of Xmas decoration shopping and search for a laundromat consumed most of the afternoon- well a little siesta of our own was included.

Dinner was all uphill,figuratively speaking, as we trod the stairs to the church square and enjoyed a typical Matera dinner. No €50 fish, but soup was €15.

All washed down with some nice wine and a comfortable downhill walk to the accommodation. The view by night was even more spectacular – as the locals say ‘ its like stars under your feet’.

Worked out all travel until the end of trip, just got to hope Italian trains run on time.

Only thing about tomorrow is Summer Time is over and we get an extra hours sleep.

Friday 25th October 2024

Lecce to Alberobello

Time to pack away the boots and sticks and enjoy the treats of Lecce, Alberobello, Matera and Salerno before heading home next Thursday.

Grand Hotel put on a namesake breakfast, but we needed to show a bit of restraint with no vigorous activity to wear off the calories.

Spent the entire morning walking the streets of Lecce. If you like Art, Architecture and Africans this is the place to come. 

There are endless art galleries and exhibitions to visit. Many of the artisan sculptors work outside their stores. There are also countless stores selling everything colorful and ceramic. There seems  to be a great fascination with the Fat Lady Singing and that may well have some association with the Opera House situated in the old castle.

The cathedral and churches are absolutely stunning. Santa Masse is almost as big as a football field and full of artefacts.

Plenty of tourists and art students near the Old Town, but relatively quiet elsewhere.

Even found our PM sidelining with a business he would be suited to.

Grabbed a takeaway lunch from the famous Giannone Rustica and watched some little kids enjoy the unique seats for toddlers at the local cafe. One of the local stores was obviously gearing up for Halloween with heaps of outfits.

Wandered over to Garibaldi Gardens ( shame about graffiti on fountain) and on the way passed the Lecce FC Supporters Merchandise tent. Jane got excited when colours were a  little like the Crows.

Whilst homelessness is not obvious the number of beggars and African people badgering you  with cheap merchandise is confronting. 

Shot down past the amphitheatre and old castle. The former undergoing renovations and the latter the home of opera. Ran into old custom of locks being attached to anything near significant artefact.

Went back to hotel and collected bags to head to railway and start our journey to Alberobello the home of the Trulli houses. They are the ones with the domed roofs. It’s a long story but my read was in days gone by there was a housing tax which they were able to avoid by changing roof shape to that of a barn which was exempt.

Anyway on a local train first to get to Monopoli where we hoped to catch a taxi to Alberorello. Arrived and no taxis. Sign said ring one of a dozen numbers . All failed. Then the Messiah arrived in the shape of a local cab driver who was waiting for another customer.

Never one to pass up and opportunity for a €50 fare he quickly fobbed of the other customer via call to a mate and had our bags on board in a jiffy.

It was a very informative ride where the story of the olive,or Oliver as he pronounced, disease was fully explained- he called it the Covid of the trees. 

After 30 minutes of agricultural education we ended up in town. We were expecting a little village with quaint houses, that it wasn’t. It was a big town with the Trulli’s only in a a very specific part of town, which was jam packed with tourists.

Our little house was on the edge and was as quaint as expected, basically one room with a domed ceiling and a shower where each leg took turns to get wet. Not too much room to squeeze into bed either width or height wise.

We did a tour of the town passing the huge church with its dual spires – one with a clock the other a sundial. There was a unique 2 storey Trulli which we visited just in front of two tourist groups of 30.

Stopped to hydrate and people watch, especially the waitress who had more work done on her than the average Kardashian.

Headed off to the area where the concentration of Trulli’s was and spent several hours wandering the streets window shopping and snapping photos galore.

Night was soon upon us and we ended up in the recommended restaurant  A very persuasive waiter was offering up Florentine steaks and snapper as the best choice on the menu. I passed , but Jane opted for the fish.

It was beautifully presented, deboned at the table side and served with lashings of baby potatoes. All I can say is they must have been expensive potatoes as the dish cost €50 when the bill arrived.  Thank God I rejected the steak.

A bit shellshocked we wandered home and shimmied our way into bed after our first day of being a tourist.

Thursday 24th October 2024

Marina Serra to Gagliano 

Last day of the walk and about 14 Kms to conquer with a lot of coastal walking on what was described as ‘sometimes difficult to follow because of heavy overgrowth’. There was also a need to finish by about 100pm to allow collection of luggage from a cafe and get to station by 200pm.

We had dined with another group of walkers last night and they beat us to the punch for a very typical Italian breakfast, with slim pickings left. 

We were in a Refuggio so 5 star digs and food was not expected. We got what we expected clean and comfortable room and food cooked as if you were part of the family, plus wonderful hospitality.

Altered the route a bit to avoid an early difficult stair start, but we had our share of hills on the road before heading into the olive groves.

Lots of smoke as farmers pulled out old trees and burnt them off, which probably explained yesterdays smoke. Also lots of cranky dogs who thankfully remained behind the fences whilst they earned their keep guarding farms.

Route took a very circuitous way around the fields and we were tempted to climb a few fences and use a farm road. Ultimately we stuck to the map and continued along, saying a few hellos to farmers picking the last of the crop.

Passed through a small town where a few Eels supporters obviously lived and there was not a soul around.

Headed back down to just above the coast  for the rest of the walk. It was for most part along very narrow pathways close to drystone walls and often beneath heavy foliage 

One section aptly named Ambush Pass had us ducking and weaving and climbing  over many piles of rocks where walls had collapsed. 

Navigational errors were aplenty with the lack of signs, overgrowth and in one instance my inability as head scout to take orders from Vasco with the map. It had us climbing through thick undergrowth and forging our own way forward before finally coming upon  a field- albeit a fenced one with no gate.

Found the lowest part of the wall and executed a very inelegant crossing, much like a tiring Grand National jumper. To add insult to injury the track was only about 30 metres away  through a patch of blackberries.

Slightly scratched we were finally back on track on a gravel road with a view to a very inviting blue sea. 

Almost on time we had our daily buzzing from the Air Force jet which was the only noise in an otherwise serene setting.

Just when the spirits were high it was back on the rocky trail for the final push towards the last seaside point of the walk. Two things to focus on in the notes were a red gate to turn up onto the tarmac  and a bar near the grotto that was always open.

After what seemed an eternity on an unusually hot day we found the gate and slogged our way to heaven- the always open bar. The area around the bar was full of cyclists all getting ready to head down the stairs to the grotto for a swim.

We chose the panini and beer option as fuel to get us up 400 feet out of the grotto, without a swim, due to time pressure.

We snapped a few end of coast pictures before heading down into the grotto and enjoying a look at a great swimming opportunity. Then we felt like people from the Land of Lilliput as we took giant strides to make our way up the wide stairs to the top. It was then all uphill for last kilometer into town. We were cheered on by Snow White and Co as we trod the last 500 metres to town.

It was another kilometre through town, which was basically closed for siesta, to reach the cafe. I thought it was a gee up when they said turn right at the traffic lights because we had not seen one in 6 days. I would have believed a 20 metre high statue .

Found the cafe at 120pm, but unfortunately not the baggage. Due to a misunderstanding ours and that of two others in our group had been swapped and placed in a car heading to a different location.  

Thankfully the owner was able to retrieve them and we were at  the station, a mere 800 metre walk away, in time for our 2 hour trip to Lecce. 

Thanks to the unreliability of Trenitalia we stopped one station short of home and waited just on an hour while a broken down train was moved.

Finally off the train and a 200 metre walk had us at the aptly named Grand Hotel. Pretty lavish inside and out and after 9 hours we didn’t care if the shower was a garden hose, as long as it was hot. As I said to Jane on the way to the train’ even I wouldn’t like to sit  next to me on the train smelling like this”.

Cleaned up we headed for a late walk around town to be accosted by beggars and Africans selling trinkets. We found the recommended restaurant next to the Duomo and enjoyed dinner firstly with an Aussie couple and then a couple of Central Americans.

Picked  our way home through streets full of gorgeous Baroque buildings before collapsing into bed to officially finish the walk.

Wednesday 23rd October 2024

Marittima to Marina Serra

Must have been zonked from yesterdays heat because the noise factor had zilch impact on sleep.

Up very early as we needed to be at accommodation before 200pm , else they were at siesta until 400pm and that might have impacted on getting a swim in.

No disappointment with breakfast it was typical Italian with juice, fruit, cheese, croissant and coffee.   It was plenty to sustain us for the morning walk.

Day was warm and the air filled with smoke from a fire , hopefully not in our direction. It was a flat walk, but not on bike smoothed tracks, which seemed to pass through nothing but olive groves.

It was a mixture of the healthy and the deserted. In the healthy ones were farmers picking up the last vestiges of the harvest and in the others unkempt groves, diseased trees and increasing For Sale signs.It was sad  to see some of the old gnarled trees now fruitless.

There was obviously some money still in olives with magnificent homes built in the groves and often supporting agrotourism as a secondary revenue source.

Came across one spic and span grove whose owner must have believed in the power of prayer, with a huge mural painted on the front fence. We heathens deduced it was Father Son and Holy Ghost.

We popped out of the groves and started doing up and down circuits on steep stony paths closer to the coast avoiding the increasing number of brand new houses built with amazing sea views. The map suggests we are directly opposite bottome of Albania and not far from the top of Greece across the Mediterranean.

Suffered a pretty nasty hit to hip pocket when my brand new sunnies fell off my hat and I trod on them. Hopefully a lens replacement is possible when I get home.

Some lovely views as we trod our way steeply up around some pretty grandiose agriturismo’s, after passing probably our last Torre which was under repair. 

Interesting on this whole tour that we have seen no livestock, despite eating plenty. Only critters ate bright green lizards and yellow butterflies. That said the girls in our group encountered a large snake today.

Started spotting more craft off shore today and our bloody persistent Air Force jet.

Paths were becoming more overgrown, probably from lack of people traffic, so a keen eye needed to be kept out for ankle buster hidden rocks. The toughness of terrain was probably reflected by the fact that when we had our first genuine rest 7.5 Kms had taken 3.5 hours.

Back on the trail we were passing large groves protected by equally large savage dogs who kept charging at the fences. Thank God there were some gates completed here in southern Italy.

Again started to strike the impressive houses high up in the hills which were the antithesis of the decrepit olive farms we had passed earlier.

We had a long road run into the town of Porta Tricase which was probably the nicest towns we had visited. It had a certain vibrancy and trendy feel about it with lots of people in cafes and on the beach. The water here was again almost transparent.

We stopped for an iced coffee as recommended by the tour booklet and it was as good as suggested. Ran into the other four people we had been staying with along the way and chatted about the day.

Took off along the port where a crowd of ducks had surrounded an old yacht tied up in the marina. The marina had an interesting sea wall which looked like ill fitting gig saw pieces, but from research is really effective and ecologically friendly.

With only about 3 Kms to home we started to get ugly camel syndrome and increased pace decidedly so we could teach the accommodation and have first dibs on rooms.

Hills plus steep up and down stairs meant nothing and we were soon heading down the road to our accommodation which was about 300 metres from the sea.

The increased pace helped and we got choice of rooms, much to the chagrin of late arrivals. 

Changed into swimming gear and had a great time in the grotto at the bottom of the street in relatively warm and perfectly clear water. We both managed a swim and then a costume change in some natural dressing room, which unknown to us was visible from on high. Apologies to all those for the unintended peep show.

Back home to drop off gear and then to scale the 100 or so steps to the only bar in town. An iced coffee and a couple of drinks later it was down the stairs for a pre dinner siesta.

Dinner was essentially a Pilgrim setting with 20 odd people all getting a yummy 3 course meal during which many a tale was spun. With €10 carafes of wine it was hardly truth serum.

Ended penultimate night with a Buona Notte to all to get to bed and sleep to ready ourselves for the trip to the most southern part of the coast.

Tuesday 22nd  October 2024

Santa Centarea Terme to Marritima

Decided on an early start to try and beat the heat, so getting to the breakfast room for an 800am dig-in was imperative.

No typical Italian breakfast here it was the full gamut and I am sure some will have smuggled some out for a lunch time smorgasbord today.

Made our way back up the steep slope we traversed yesterday and I went to check the time- oops the dreaded thought ‘did I leave the watch on the bed?’

I decided to trust the honesty of staff or find it when I rooted through my bag at days end.

It was a meandering walk through the fields of olives, again on paths flattened by the cyclists. There were plenty of derelict buildings and vacant stony fields signalling the demise of some farms. There seemed to be endless Vendesi ( for sale) signs along the way.

Some farmers obviously diversified during the tough times and planted pine, for their nuts not timber. One planting had high fences which went for 850 metres down one side. It also had the obligatory fancy gate.

Much to our surprise we came across a large footy stadium, not more than 5kms from the deserted one. It was the new home ground for the Serie D local team. 

We eventually got back onto the coast and entered the outskirts of Castro. It was the town where the bike race concluded. There was obviously money in this town with huge mansions and strings of new apartment buildings, many with panoramic ocean views. That said there were still very few people around.

Passed a recommended lunch stop restaurant which opened 80 years ago – unfortunately it was closed, but outside was a cute little Bambino car with a luggage rack to boot. 

There was also a cute little kid Jane gave a kangaroo pin to, along with a pretty poor impression of one. The bemused kid wandered off into the supermarket quizzing her Mum. Not sure she even had the answer to what a hopping adult was.

Stopped for coffee in the old town with a beautiful view before setting off down some rickety stairs, behind what was declared to be Minerva’s  chapel, to the harbour where the cycle race finished. It was pretty quiet other than a lone fishing boat coming in with its catch. 

The town was a bit more lively, but again more closed shops than open ones. It was a pretty harbour with crystal clear water.

Whilst there we were buzzed by a Police helicopter and then a low flying Air Force jet fighter like one we had seen yesterday.

Then after leaving the harbour and heading into the suburbs there was a miracle, Jane decided against buying a handmade Xmas decoration from a lady who invited us into her backyard.

After more road walking we reached what was one of the highlights of the day – Aquaviva- which unlike yesterdays hot thermal springs was a seaside beach where sea water was infused with freezing spring water. Not sure of the curative powers but as my Dad would’ve said- cold enough to tighten your nuts- and he was right.

Aside from being cold it was an awkward entry into the water with swirling water disguising the rocks below. I was not the  only one toppling over in knee deep water.

Jane needed a bit of cajoling to get in, but did so and was able to tick off another activity on her daily to do list.

The beach was pretty busy and made even busier when a bike group of 20 or so arrived. Not many went for a swim but they commandeered all of the chairs at the cafe and ate their own food without spending a cent.

Changerooms, if you could call them that, were up the hill. Outside the facility Jane instead of doing a kangaroo impression, did one of a felled tree, when she missed a step and came a cropper. Despite the heavy fall it was almost harmless other than skin off the knees and embarsssment.

Thankfully we were only two or three kilometres down the hill from town and were able to have a soft run home.

Home was Marittima which has to be one of the weirdest towns we have come across. It’s huge, lots of narrow streets with old houses, hardly a shop to be seen, full of cats and a castle.

Guess accommodation was scant for the tour operator and twas the castle where we stayed. The castle itself had seen better days and was in need of a revamp and probably a more committed and interested operator. Rooms were at least clean and quite large but everywhere else indicated a distinct disinterest. Positive news was my watch was in my suitcase.

We were only staying there so looked for a restaurant for dinner, bar for a drink and ATM. It was slim pickings all round one restaurant that was closed from 15/9 /24, going by the sign and one cafe and one bar. We did find an ATM.

We went back to the bar and it was an hours entertainment you could not buy, as all of the over 65 men converged to play cards. Play might be an overstatement as 4 played and 9 hovered around watching providing plenty of sideline advice. We got the evil eye taking up a table with 4 chairs and despite offering two up there was no takers- just lingering glances.  Interestingly Jane was the only female. 

The barman was full of advice and actually told us that the closed restaurant was the best in town and opened at 730. We mentioned the sign and he dismissed us and said – just go it will be ok.

Go we did, after sprucing up, and as we passed the bar all of the men were heading off home – obviously Mumma had given them strict instructions. The change of guard changed the demographic with younger people, including women filling the seats.

The ‘now open’ restaurant was well patronised and served good wholesome food at a reasonable price. 

We wandered home to bed in our room which could best be described as close to transport. 

Monday 21 October 2024

After last nights ‘sumptuous’ dinner I was looking forward to a crack at the breakfast buffet to fuel up for a walk along the coast to Santa Cenarea Terme. It is renowned for its thermal hot spa treatments which supposedly fix everything from arthritis to mental illness. Jesus somebody had read my medical bio.

The first assignment was getting untangled from the curtains around the four poster bed. That was followed by a 400 metre hike from the garden to the restaurant, via the series of caves.

Must say all efforts were worthwhile with a best on tour offering including my now favourite sweet start  to the day – the Lecce Cake.

Well fed it was off on what started as an almost circular walk through the olive groves,most healthy new growth stock, to to reacquaint ourselves with the narrow path steamrolled flat by yesterdays cycle race.

It made for easy passsge with the mud flattened, only disappointing thing was the rubbish left by cyclists as they dropped their empty packaging along the way – so much for cycling being environmentally friendly,

The track followed a huge fissure in the ground which finished at a bridge under where a weir / dam structure was built.  Too bad about the lack of water. 

The track dropped down into the gully, which required a 3 metre bumdlife due to track erosion.

The track turned into a road as we wound our way up past a not particularly appealing little beach and onto the coast where we had a great view back down the coast. 

Found a Supermarket  and then a cafe where we managed a coffee and cake plus a panini for lunch. It was no easy walk with 7.5 Kms taking 3 hours. Only downside was the horde of cats sitting around as we had coffee.

The next few kilometres were a tough slog, albeit with great views, along the rocky shoreline. It was a bit reminiscent of Turkey where every step needed to be measured to avoid an appointment with the sharp rocks.

The torre’s continued to dot the coast line and were a great landmark, though keeping hills on the right and sea on the left was about as technical as directions got. Played some tortoise and harr with three other couples doing the walk, with us tortoises eventually winning as the others lost their way.

Left the coast at a sunbathing deck perched on the coast below a ritzy resort and again ended up following the narrow trail shaped  by the bikers. 

It was again stony fields with sparse olive groves and in many cases just piles of rocks where farmers tried to clear areas for use.

The last thing you expect to see in the middle of nowhere is an abandoned sports stadium intact with lighting, parking areas and next door a huge building also abandoned. The Balmain Tigers would have drooled at such amenities. A  scamper through some blackberries  to a peep hole showed the ground completely grown over. Later we found out it was built 10 years ago and never used, with nobody able to explain why.

Soon we turned back to the sea and caught our first glimpses of Santa Cesarea Terme. What a sight with modern and old houses and hotels perched along the coastline. One in particular would not have been out of place in Istanbul. Sadly we didn’t get to visit as it was under renovation.

It was a very steep run down roads and stone paths to reach our modern hotel with stunning views from the terrace. The track was littered with burnt trees courtesy of a recent bushfire which threatened the town and needed aerial bombing to douse.

It was probably the hottest day of the walk and with luggage not arriving till later we had nothing to do but hydrate on the terrace

Once luggage did arrive we spruced up and did a lap of town. It was showing signs of end of season with very few tourists, other than those at a huge thermal spa , and many shops closed.

With these amazing views and plentiful sea water it’s a bit of a disappointment that there are few if any swimming spots. 

Complete a lap of town before drinking with the locals at the ‘Disco Bar’ which had a very eclectic collection of customers from bikers to business men to a bloke wandering around aimlessly outside clutching two unopened bottles of beer having animated phone discussions.

A little stair climb back to the hotel where the ‘swimming opportunity was a cuddle puddle ( spa for two) which was occupied.

We enjoyed  dinner on the terrace with a very small crowd and retired early.

Sunday 20th October 2024

Otranto to Porto Badisco

Woke to grey skies, drizzle and a howling wind, but the forecast was looking positive.

Another cracking breakfast that we lingered over hoping for improved  weather for what was a 13 km walk. Notes indicated it’s essentially along the coast on muddy and rocky paths, with a bit of knee high Mediterranean vegetation to boot. On that description I donned the long  trekking strides for the first time on tour.

Lingering breakfast did the trick with drizzle disappearing, probably courtesy of the increased wind which we walked into all day. At times felt like the dog with its head out the car window with the jowls flapping.

It was our last goodbye to the castle, old town and port as we snuck onto the coast where the sea was quite angry and wind too much for a hat.

Despite the grey skies we could see a string of cargo ships heading south and a shadowy outline of the Albanian coast.

It sure was rocky terrain and an ideal landscape for the protective bunkers that were built during WW2. There were bunkers and observation towers consistently along the coast.

Unlike previous days there were plenty of other walkers including a guided group of about 20 who remained at our rear.

The signage was good if you simply followed the orange arrow.  Though the next bit of signage wasn’t as helpful, as the owners and Council had decided to remove right of way because of environmental damage being done on the trail.

That meant a diversion through some muddy fields where we were confronted with different signs pointing  generally in the same direction, but at other times down rocky paths.

We ignored them for a while and then on closer inspection found they had something to do with cycling.  We thought there must have been a race at some time 

We were soon to get more information from a photographer when our track swung onto the bitumen. Our path for the day was to be shared with 800 mountain bike riders competing in the international event called the Legend of Castro over 80 kilometres along the coast.

Just as he finished his explanation the trail clearing motor cycle came racing through, ignored the huge puddle and drenched him. He mumbled something like F..k Y.. is the same in any language.

Within minutes the World Champions in several classes came whizzing through and then it was a procession. We walked the road – no other option- to a nearby drinks station and took a rest watching a conga line of cyclists pass by. 

The drinks station was plonked near the lighthouse at the most easterly point of the coast and opposite some Secret Squirrel Military establishment protected by several layers of razor and barbed wire.

Also along the coast are strategically placed Torre or ancient lookout towers.

The walk is also part of the Camino trails this one is the Salemto. Like many it is rocky and here particularly open to the wind.

We set off again trying to share a slightly wider path, but it was impossible so we bush bashed back onto the road which would be our trail all the way to our accommodation.k

As we walked we could see the cyclists heading out to the coast. As they faded into the distance we detoured up a gravel road to our accommodation . What a find it was a working farm with accommodation and reception centre .

We got a bottom of the gardenroom which had a four poster bed and its own outdoor sitting area – we could understand why the host said it was their favourite room. 

Unfortunately we arrived earlier than the bags so wiled away the time until they were delivered and then changed into proper clothes and enjoyed an apperitivo.

Dinner was a fixed menu nouveau cuisine arrangement. The main was pork chops served with potato. The picture tells the story.

To be honest without the bread bag and dessert I would have gone to bed hungry. We managed to complement the food with a nice 2021 Malvasia blend.

Thankfully all the steps home were downhill.

A little bit of post dinner Google research revealed the hotel was built from an old ruin in the late 90’s and in 2007 won hotel of the year.

Saturday 19th October

Around Otranto

Up early to try and dodge the rain and enjoyed a hearty breakfast before donning the walking gear for a limber up walk of around 8 Kms.

The town was still hardly populated as we made our way down through the old town, where many shops had put up the shutters for the year and gone on holidays.

Jane started day poorly when she recognised she had one of her poles and one of mine, the latter could not adjust low enough for her so most of the day she was like a drunken sailor.

The town  has a beautiful beach and port as well as a castle and old town full of shops of the usual variety. Cafes were doing a bit of early business as we walked the canal and headed out into the valley which was primarily olives and vegetables.

The majority of olive trees had been dramatically affected by the disease and growers were trying to remedy things by giving trees a super hard prune or alternatively replanting.

Struck up a conversation in mixed dialect with an old grower and he explained that the disease and drought had affected him and  other locals badly. The ‘For sale’ sign painted on his fence said it all. He was laboriously pruning / shaping low  growing healthier  branches- gave me one as a gift  ie an olive branch of hope and good luck from what  we could glean.

Further down the road another farmer was tidying up acres of grove with just a whipper snipper.

There were many deserted farms with the only splash of wealth being a farm selling truffles and running a restaurant.

On the floor of the valley we came across a rock church over which a protective awning had been installed. There was a huge rock altar that dominated it and a very faded fresco in one of the holes carved into the wall.

In the cultivated areas there was an enormous amount of rock in the ploughed fields, not sure what would be grown in such soil.

Being close to coast it was affected by wind and the farmers used bamboo plantings as windbreaks.

Soon we were walking along a big channel, basically waterless,  that led us back to town. Close to the end we ran into a couple of local walkers and traded stories about walks we had all completed.

It was an amazing duplication.

Got back  home just before it started to bucket down, but we needed to head into town to do the laundry. So it was on with ponchos and armed with a prawn roll from local cafe we splashed our way to the laundromat sharing machines with an eclectic bunch. 

Imteresting sign on all of the washers and dryers with a Red Cross over a cat and dog. Not sure if you couldn’t put them in the appliances or they could not come inside. 

Did a bit of window shopping and general sightseeing before heading home to dry out , cleaned up and then popped up to the bar for an afternoon tipple. Worst beer, but best nibbles and Italian gin on tour.

Listened to the falling rain and pawed over forecasts for tomorrow’s coastal walk, before finding another hidden gem restaurant for dinner. The pasta was great and plenty of sauce left for a bit of scapetta ( soaking it up with bread).

Twas a lonely walk back home at 900pm with the only company being other diners leaving restaurants and doing likewise.

More rain tomorrow, but that can be dealt with then.