Gobble Up Turkey

Friday  19th December 2025

Oslo to Berlin

Bit of a restless night after some Reindeer Revenge, aka Bali Belly, but all ok the rest of the day.

Modicum of breakfast which included a ginger shot to calm the tummy, most hotels serve them at breakfast in Norway.

Then did a Gary Lyon and managed to tweak my hamstring or glute muscle lifting the suitcase off the floor which led to a day of hobbling.

Handled the station run smoothly and we were off on the Airport  Express with a raft of other travellers heading who knows where. 

Being the Friday before Xmas the airport was packed and we joined the queues at the self checkin. We mastered the process but the conveyor belt didn’t and it was a 10 minute wait before bags disappeared, hopefully headed for Berlin.

Up in departures we were greeted by an amazing Delorian type car and for  a mix of culture an original Munch painting – his most famous 20’s painting was The Scream.

Soon on the SAS flight accompanied by the usual gang of people who empty their wardrobe and think it will fit into carry on luggage.

Aisle seat, so not sure what sort of territory we crossed but ended up in a chilly Berlin 90 minutes later.

Baggage handlers made my bag quite easy to distinguish pulling off one of the straps, so after a little running repairs we traipsed through one terminal to another then underground to find train platform.

After a ticket machine dilemma and encountering a guard giving a family the rounds of the table for having a pram in the wrong carriage- a real welcome to Germany- it was all ahead Berlin.

The main station replicated most in the world, crowds, chaos and homeless. Not sure what the 20 police cars out the front were doing, but it did put one on edge.

We manouvered our way through ever darkening light along streets filled mainly with modern buildings. It was architect freelance school here. Interestingly Embassies were dotted along this part of town, including US which was all about security and not aesthetics. There was a meter display recording something in the billions – something, perhaps refugee intake given the multicultural make up of the people we have already passed.

Found our riverside hotel and unsurprisingly it was quirky. Room was all German efficiency which included bathroom door also opening inwards to create a toilet cubicle.

Unpacked and slaked thirst with an Aperol while doing some map orientation then headed off the dinner at recommended local restaurant. On the way passed a bunch of kids training for curling- youthful enthusiasm had them hurling the stone more.like ten pin bowling much to the chagrin of coach.

As usual the meal servings were ridiculously big with 4 pieces of snitzel the norm. Didn’t leave much room for the accompanying pint of pilsner.

An after dinner walk probably took us to the dark side of town along the river with plenty of homeless and dodgy buildings.

Managed to reach the un der linden – the huge avenue leading up to the Brandenburg Gate.

The whole area was again glitzed up for Xmas and the illuminated gate showed itself all its glory. The small market was doing a roaring trade in gluhwein and takeaway food with the big Friday night crowd.

Wound our way back along the river and passed the Berliner Ensemble with a crowd gathered outside and some early arrivals sipping champagne on the balcony below a stunning mural.

Back to the hotel with all itsartwork 

 and oddities before calling it a night.

Thursday 18th December 2025

Oslo

Afforded ourself a little sleep in with today’s itinerary driven solely by us, no packing up, no bags out etc 

It was a snow free, yet chilly day, with a light mizzle that greeted us after breakfast. ‘Feels like’ temperature was -2, so we were rugged up for our 45 minute walk out to the Vigeland which is the worlds largest Sculpture Park by one artist.

It was a chance to walk off the ‘bus bum’ accumulated after 9 days in a coach. It was a surprisingly hilly walk as we wandered through suburbs surrounded by beautiful parklands that housed the home ground of local ice hockey and football teams. The most infrequently used area, at this time of the year, the swimming pool, with 3 level diving tower, was also in the precinct.

Time passed quickly and we arrived at the ornately sculptured bridge that led to the sculpture park which extended in front of us as far as the eye could see.

Whilst they have fossil parks in the world this was a tossil park. If you were offended by men’s dangly bits and nudity generally this park was not for you. We did notice a tour group of Asians giggle and quickly pass through.

The artist deliberately  had all granite sculptures nude so they did not age and reflect  a particular era.

The major exhibit depicted life from womb to tomb and all forms of sexuality. The craftsmanship was absolutely amazing.

Jane managed to embed herself in the Secret Women’s  Business group while I realised I didn’t measure up to be a model.

After an hour we took a more circuitous route home walking through Embasdy Row where all the fancy houses and flash cars dominate the scenery. There were several police huts and cars scattered through the area. The most ironic neighbours were Russia and Ukraine. It was interesting the majority of houses facing the Russian Embassy had Ukrainian flags displayed either in windows or on external flag poles. 

Seems the majority of Scandinavia is very supportive if Ukraine and rightfully so.

Stopped outside a kids school and watched the kids enjoying school- most clad in Santa hats.  There were also plenty at childcare if the traffic jam outside was any indication.

It was then down along the harbour where huge ferries seemed to swallow semi trailers as they drove into the hold. 

Behind them were the cruise ships ready to take the passengers on an Arctic  adventure. We actually met a ln Aussie couple outside our hotel destined for a cruise who picked our brains on what to expect- we had to keep the mystery of the Northern  Lights exactly that – a mystery.

Made our way back home passing the Palace with its three diligent guards doing precise military drills out front.

Back at the hotel we were pleasantly surprised with free Glogg in the foyer.

When upstairs it was a decision between the laundromat or Oslo Trots – clean clothes won the coin toss.

Dr Google set the trail and we headed off on some more hill walking up through the University precinct and then through some quaint suburbs with beautiful wooden houses. One had the best Naitivity scene embedded in the facade of the house.

We soon crossed the river after fighting off a group of marauding ducks anxious for a feed. Either lack of feeding or in a show of male virility two put on a great wrestling match.

Soon reached the laundry which in true Nordic fashion was completely automated and charged at their rates.

Found a local parkside cafe situated inside an old cinema and enjoyed our 2 beers and a sandwich for $A75,  the only thing missing was popcorn and Choctops. 
The bridge over the stream had the obligatory European love locks attached to the sides.

‘Oslo consistently ranks as one of the most expensive cities in Europe. The reality is that Oslo’s high prices reflect its strong economy, high wages, and excellent quality of life’  – a direct quote from Dr Google who seems to forget the high tax regime.

Ventured back and collected clothes before a lovely walk through a suburb evolving from industry to residential, but not without the scourge of graffiti. Despite the graffiti this place is spotlessly clean.

Back in the city centre afternoon traffic was at a standstill despite the locals  glowing praise of the tunnel systems that cross the city.

No rest for us, after dropping off clothes and a little more Glogg we headed to the Xmas Markets and another lap. Crowds were much bigger than yesterday and more people using the attractions, including the ice skating rink and some steep metal slide which would struggle to meet safety standards, but did attract a lot of yelping teenagers.

Lived up to our promise from yesterday and got a Juicy Moosey Burger, albeit under the stare of Bullwinkle whose picture was on the back wall. Dessert was in the form of a waffle and it was an alcohol free visit.

The ‘have more kids’ incentive over here is certainly working with many a 2 and 3 kid family enjoying the market and in the streets generally.

Headed down for a quick peep at the harbour and City Hall and National Theatre before the evening chill and mizzle had us back home  across the Palace Park for our last sleep in Scandinavia.

Wednesday 17th December 2025

Tromso to Oslo

Today was our last day in the Arctic Circle and with a bit of a sad heart we packed up and prepared for our trip to Oslo.

Managed to avoid WW3 which was happening at the Reception Desk, right in middle of Breakfast Room, between 2 insistent young CRA’s who couldn’t accept there was no room to extend their stay in the hotel that evening. The abrupt ‘well what are you going to do about it’ barked at the staff member, received the politest of  replies ‘more importantly what are you going to to do about it’. That soon had them on their heels tails between the legs.

We enjoyed breakfast and the 5 minute bus ride soon had us at the airport.

Everything other than security is self check in over here and the worst fate is getting stuck behind IT illiterate people at the checking in and luggage drop area. 

We managed it and after their umpteenth try and a bit of guidance they finally worked it all out, some 10 minutes later. 

Jane automatically puts her hand up at Security and meekly succumbed  to the handsome young guard asking permission for a full body pat down.

As expected no contraband and a smile was all he found.

Jumped on a full SAS plane and grabbed my window seat which gave a Birds Eye view of the wings being hosed down to remove ice – every plane get the treatment here after the late 90’s ditching when ice formed on a plane’s wings. Thankfully it landed without injuries and started a process that lifts one’s confidence, especially when you see how much washes off.

The two hours passed quickly as we flew over snow covered mountains, then frozen lakes and rivers , before 20 minutes out from Oslo the snow disappeared and the lush green fields forming part of the 3% of farmed land in Norway started to appear.

Navigated the airport quicker than the poor driver navigated the Oslo traffic on the 40 minute  journey to our schmick hotel right near the Palace and Xmas Market.

We passed the Alfred Nobel Museum (famous for developing TNT) and the building where Prizes were awarded last week. Surprisingly, we didn’t see Donald Trump moping around out the front with a ‘What About Me’ sign.

Seems the weird decor theme is being embraced in lots of Scandinavian hotels with colourful walls and abstract paintings in foyers and rooms and this one was no different.

With little daylight left we walked town admiring the beautiful old and new buildings , before getting our bearings right for Fridays train trip to the airport.

Then it was off to the grandest Xmas  Market so far, with its glittering entrance, raft of amusement rides and stalls galore. For the punter there was a huge chocolate wheel where with one lucky spin of the wheel you could win a 2kg pack of a chocolate of your liking. Just as we arrived a fellow marched off with a giant Toblerone box under his arm. At $7 a spin and 80 numbers not sure it was a good bet.

If you had a sweet tooth there were lollies galore and a 100 different flavoured toffee apples  My confectioner Dad would have been in his element.

There were food stores aplenty with traditional hot dogs, cheese ball pasta, doughnuts, corn dogs – you  name it . I must say the most appealing was the Juicy Moosey Burger – we will be back for one of them tomorrow.

Headed back Hotel to dress for our farewell dinner which was held in a restaurant that shared the building with a library. Seemed more diners than readers with lots being turned away for tables whilst we were there.

The decorations both freestanding and incorporated into building facades are beautiful and create a real spirit of Cmad.

Dinner was the best meal on tour and we enjoyed a couple of Italian wines to boot.

The house next door was pretty unique being decorated as an Advent Calendar.

Back on the bus for a 3 minute ride home and said our goodbyes to all those with onwards journeys first thing in the morning. Then off upstairs for a farewell drink in the packed rooftop bar with the Pussycat Dolls ( Nancy and Elina) – our bus mates from the US.

There endeth our Chasing The Northern Lights tour. Next stop Berlin, Nuremberg, Munich and Heidelberg.

Tuesday 17th December 2025

Around Tromso

Looks like the late night finishes are a cure  for the sleep deprivation, as it was the alarm clock that woke us around 715.

Breakfast in the foyer restaurant was a hoot trying to find a suitable seat in a crazily furnished area of the Moxy Hotel – a joint for hipsters . Food selection was as comprehensive as usual, but we showed a bit of restraint given we had a dinner tour this evening.

No rest for the wicked and we were off for a visit to the marine centre. It was a very interesting time seeing a raft of animals, as well as hearing some concerning stories about the impact global warming is having on the Arctic region both on land and in the sea.

Got to see the training and feeding of the 6 or so seals being cared for. They were great performers and some of their entries into the pool were a bit like me flopping into the local pool.

Some in the glass walled pool were very entertaining as they interacted with people on the outside of the glass pool.

The Arctic lifestyle must be tough in the extreme seasons with either limited sun or unlimited sun. This short time we spent here has played havoc with the body clock, but has encouraged us to maximise the limited sunlight that is available.

We enjoyed a couple of hours wandering the township with its marvellous mix of the old and new architecture. Visited the small Xmas  market to enjoy a non alcoholic Glogg and a Kransky burger. Jane could not resist the cheese ball pasta.

She also couldn’t resist another visit to the trinket shops in search of just one more Xmas  decoration. We even got a ‘ride’in Santa’s Crystal sleigh.

The market was adjacent to the harbour and sat below the chairlift which was our next destination.

With 24 other brave souls we boarded the car and headed 400 odd metres to the top of the snow covered mountain. I always wonder why the operator controls the car remotely – maybe he knows the risk or effectiveness of preventative maintenance programme.

The top station was undergoing significant renovations and I am not sure what WHS conditions were in place. There was a bloke hanging off the end of a tractor arm securing a load of rubbish with no safety gear at all and a 400 metre drop below.

The top of the mountain was like the queue to reach the top of Mt Everest. In the darkness it looked like an ants nest as people spread across the hill trying to capture the ultimate shot. It seems Asia had discovered the Arctic with more than 80% making up the crowd.

Grabbed some great photos before joining the queue of 100 to head back down. It was ironic that a bunch of pushy young Japanese kids pushed in front of us and one got a bad nose bleed-who did they ask for help- the 2 old people they pushed in front off.

Stemmed the bleed and they were off without as much as a thanks.

Down on terra firma we headed for the beautifully designed Ice Cathedral. Interestingly the outside was the feature with its beautiful stained glass window. In keeping with Lutheran design it was vanilla inside aside from the organ.

After a brief stop at the hotel we were again on the bus to visit the Sami Reindeer Ranch for a feeding session and cultural show.

A little briefing session whilst sipping  hot chocolate was followed by the reindeer feeding. Armed with buckets of pellets we stood in the middle of the pen and were besieged by some of the hungry horned animals. It was a real experience as these animals nudged, kicked and poked you as a reminder it was their time to be fed. Some of the male ones even put on a head butting show.

Buckets empty we headed for the dining room for some more fish and reindeer for dinner, but not before another brief catching of the Northern Lights.

Post dinner we adjourned to a nearby tepee looking structure which is typical of the Sami people, but a bit grander in size than the normal one and not transferable,

Seems the Sami people have all of the same gripes of indigenous cultures around the world about losing their culture and identity. They are a bit luckier with their own parliament having a chance to input into policy affecting them. That’ll said they are still happy to use all the things that are not traditional to maintain their lifestyle.

Being the only Nordic people allowed to own and manage reindeer most of the talk surrounded their evolution and current day uses. 

As a reindeer you want to be born a female and capable of reproducing as the boys are only good for shooting and a word which rhymes with it.

A bit of traditional yoiking which is a means of making musical noises to praise someone or something. Interesting the Sami had an entrant in late 90’s Eurovision Competition and the appeal of the yoik was reflected in them running last.

Back in the bus and another close to midnight finish.

Monday 15th December 2025

Alta to Tromso.

Up reasonably early, after all but packing up last night, so we can meet the daily tour rituals:

Breakfast

Bags Out

Check Out

On The Bus

Seat rotation 

It’s all a bit foreign for those used to 2 person self guided walking trips where everything is self organised. There are lots on this trip who think the Tour Guide is a Nanny and I can but only admire her patience.

Managed all that perfectly and started our day of ‘follow the fjord’ sitting at the back of the bus. In such a big coach and a smaller group like ours at the back is good , as you can play seat lotto as the views change on either side of the bus.

There were plenty of amazing sights as we wound our way around the fjords which were often dwarfed by huge snow covered mountains.

Small timber cottages JK hugged the waterside of the road whilst bigger clumps of brightly coloured houses sat below the mountains. 

Again the only sign of industry was the fish  related ones, with salmon and oyster farms. Even a few little boats plied their trade on the fjord. When the wind picked up little shore breakers started to appear.

On the cliffs close to the road little stalictite like formations hugged the walls where the ice had melted and refrozen.

By 1230 the sightseeing had finished with darkness descending and the snow driven by a buffeting wind made it difficult to see particularly for the poor driver. His skillset to get us around safely has been highly commendable.

The flashing lights in the distance were not the Norther Lights, just the parade of snow ploughs that at some stages had us travelling in convoys as they forged the way ahead.

With not much to see it was over to the Tour Director to fill our head with facts about the egalitarian lifestyle of the Scandinavian countries.

Most are relatively well off with high standards of living and social security benefits fuelled by the high tax regime – almost 50%. Norway is actually 3rd most expensive country in the world for food behind Switzerland and Iceland.

Government support is a womb to tomb arrangement with

• Baby subsidies
• Maternal Leave 420 fully paid days over an 8 year period 
• Paternal Leave 3 months that must be taken in first 12 months
• You can pass your leave onto a parent or grandparent.
• Free childcare for most
• $400 per month  if you fail the means test, else free or a small food contribution.
• Free education at all levels
• Free medical
• Pension at 67 even if you’ve never worked
• Free aged care

The best is they will pay for your funeral and supply paid mourners if you cannot afford it.

It’s a haven for refugees who are entitled to the same benefits, without contributing a single Krone.

The best rort  for Syrian refugees was the family reunion entitlement where anyone under 16 (a child) could bring the entire family over. Apparently a lot of 25 year olds from Afghanistan from the Syrian War were sitting in school rooms with local 16 year olds. 

I am not going to tell my local Labour Party member about this.

After about 4 hours we ended up at a small village of Nordkjosbotn where we enjoyed an hours break to stretch the legs and ‘chill’ out, our Tour Director leading the way.

Back on the bus threading our way through more mountains in the pitch black before the lights of Tromso shone across the water.

Over the bridge for a bus orientation through a very buzzy town all lit up for Xmas, including a Market.

The town has a great mix of old and new, with old wooden buildings dating back to 1780’s and modern unit blocks with glazed balconies, often triple glazed to keep out the heat in summer and cold other times.

Again no drapes or blinds on windows, so the nude dash from bathroom to bedroom might turn into a peep show for the neighbours.

It was then back over to the other side of town into our trendy hotel – so trendy the Reception Desk is on the top floor. No bellboy’s here as it’s too hard to get staff so it was a Do It Yourself luggage drop and self tipping.

Interesting fact of the day was that 50% of Denmark GDP comes from Ozempic related businesses and town where it’s manufactured has doubled in size. Guessing after all the local field trials there are no diabetics or fat people.

Spent a couple of quiet hours doing the chores and stretching out the aches of a 7 hour bus ride before kitting up and heading off for another Northern Lights excursion, but this time on water.

Slipped and slid along the streets covered in black ice as we headed off the bus and onto the luxury cruiser. 

Knocked off the free champagne and then a couple of non happy hour drinks ( the only 2 out of 22 that had a pay for drink) and supped on the seafood based dinner -yum for some.

Enjoyed a modicum of success finding the Northern light. Only one we sighted was a mildly tinted cloud with a ghost like appearance. Not too many of the group were worried after 4 consecutive sighting nights. The brightest lights were those illuminating the ski fields on the mainland and twin ski jump on the island.

The actual highlight of the tour was the safety demonstration where a crew member tried valiantly to don a two piece safety outfit that  highlighted the fact that a one side fits all solution might not work.

Firstly she fitted a bright orange poncho with an array of safety straps and zippers that had her looking like Sammy the Seal. No respite for her when donning the actual life jacket. People with short arms might have struggled reaching and securing the beaver tail ( their terminology not mine) which went between the legs and secured around the waist.

I have a sneaking suspicion that most people would perish before suiting up.

Three hours of cruising had as back at wharf around 10 to negotiate an even slipperier walk back to the bus over the black ice.

A second late night for us, but no big bus rides tomorrow, just some sea world visit, chairlift ride ( wind dependent) and an evening visit to an indigenous settlement for dinner and entertainment. Looking out if bus in the way over there will be plenty to see in town.

Sunday 14th December 2025

Alta

Despite the post midnight bedtime the mix of body clock and wind howling on the hotel window had us awake at 600.

When checking emails we got the terrible news about the Bondi incident- it seems that we have finally lost that ‘ it’s safe in Australia’ reputation. 

Tried not to let it play too much on our mind but a bit hard when there are other Aussies here with us wanting to discuss. It was quite chilling on the same day in Berlin 5 were arrested for plotting to ram a car into a Xmas Market in downtown Berlin where we are headed. Makes you really want to live life to the fullest when but for the grace  of God  you could be an innocent victim.

Weather is pretty miserable with snow, strong winds and minus temperatures. 

Nonetheless after breakfast, with no activities planned, we walked down towards the modern new Northern Ligjts themed Cathedral. Then it was over to a supermarket before heading to a plaza park. Several little little kids were enjoying the slippery dip and ice skating rink, despite the snow and wind, giggling and getting about with little ruddy cheeks.. One little fellow and I had a fun game in the snow which lifted the spirits a bit. 

Interesting recreation equipment – a fully fledged fire pit, with chopped wood was in the park.

Narrowly missed an impromptu snowballfight  when a couple of crows dislodged packed snow off a hotel roof which bounced at my feet.

The wind was simply howling and we headed back to the hotel,with faces stinging from the snow flurries, to get prepared for our visit to the Alaskan Husky ranch to meet the dogs and enjoy a sleigh ride.

It was time to upgrade to the new ski jacket for the prolonged outing in -16.

When we got on the bus the driver advised the two roads we travelled yesterday were closed today – seems with weather up here it’s all in the timing.

We ended up at the ranch -Tradti Trinl- with its 70 Alaskan Huskies. Unlike the Siberian version they are not pure bred and that’s deliberate as they are less prone to injury and illness.

The howls of excitement were more from the dogs than the tourists when they saw us arrive.

We delayed their enjoyment slightly by having lunch and listening to a very informative briefing from the owner who is an accomplished dog sled racer. Her husband is a renowned chef and their daughter shares the dog sled passion with her Mum.

They both competed in and won the Finnmark long distance races ranging from 600 to 1200 kilometres.

Their greatest achievement was competing in an finishing the famous Alaskan sled race over 1600 called the Idaron. The daughter Hanna Lyrek is starting to prepare for next years event training her 16 dogs for the assignment.

Next it was off to the dog yard where the noise was deafening and the desire to be patted undeniable.Despite being a ragtag looking group they surely knew how to run. 

We were loaded into two people sleds and taken on a 30 minute ride with us fortunate enough to have Hannah as our driver. She was remarkably informative about the ins and outs of the Idaron and incredibly humble.

Our ride and patting session over it was back to hotel for a quick break then some shopping and search for a dinner spot. It turned out to be an American pizza place where half a pizza and a couple of beers filled our tummy and plucked $80 from the cash card.

No respite in the weather as we trudged back h the snow to pack up for an early departure to Trimso – weather permitting.

Saturday 13th December 2025

Honningsvag to Alta

No need for early rising today as we had a late kickoff, but that didn’t stop our body clock waking us up at 600.

Packed up after deciding how many layers of clothes needed to be worn on a day predicted to be well into the minus and wind gusts up to 50kmph – a lovely Arctic Circle Day.

Took a last look out the window and snapped a shot of our view to savour.

Did a quick final lap of Honningsvag after breakfast watching life go by with locals on sleds going to market, others shovelling snow and others trying to reveal their cars.

Jane continues to battle with the tour ailment and not being able to get over the counter medication that works. Even a pleading with the Chemist didn’t help things.

Today was like reading a Demis Roussous Diet Guide with pit stops for soup, a Lights Safari with soup and soupy stuff for breakfast. The positive was Saturday is candy day in Norway so we were on a balanced diet, if not on a sugar high for most of it.

We waved goodbye to beautiful Honningsvag, after visiting a quaint church and its snow covered cemetery which at the end of WW2 were the only remnants of town after the Nazi’s left their exit present.

Groups of kids and parents were tobogganing on the slope nearby in the semi darkness.

We retraced part of yesterdays journey on our way to Alta about 6 hours away, including soup drops.

Being on the ‘mountain side’ of the coach our view was of unspoilt snow covered mountains and white deserts. The sightseeing side of the bus was enjoying views out over the ocean with its salmon farms and fish drying racks.

The poor old bus driver was getting the back end view of the snow plough clearing away last nights dump.

No farming out here with only 3% of Norway land used for agriculture. Might explain the high cost of fruit and vegetables. Good news for the Irish – the weather is ok for growing potatoes.

On the long drive we got a bit of cultural and political background about Norway.

Finland nearly all nuclear and Norway hydro power.

For a country rich in oil resources the younger generation want all oil production to stop, despite revenues being preserved for betterment of their life in the future.

The Gulf Stream is weakening and rather than warming northern oceans and seas its effect is lessening means it could lead to global cooling up there.- oh the scientific views on Climate Change.

Big problems with migrant unemployment currently, after nassive intakes. Up to 40%- most don’t speak English and Norwegian is difficult to learn so it’s an impediment to employment.

No more petrol riven cars being sold.

There endeth the update on non tour events so back to the journey, where we stopped for our soup de jour and a bit of shopping in an outlet that sold everything from snow globes to stuffed polar bears.

It was back in bus on a climb through areas you could barely see as icy winds caused snow flurries limiting drivers vision to around 40 metres. With the bus getting buffeted it was a pretty nervous 90 minutes or so.  The snow ploughs were plentiful.

Bad conditions stopped us seeing the boar, bear and moose population that supposedly inhabits the area ( or was that just a story to take our minds off the conditions- one will never know)

Not much noise on the bus and quite a few steely looks.

Finally the snowy effect lessened as we got down next to the sea and we could look across to the town of Alta, about 20 kilometres away. 

Small villages turned into bigger ones and then into suburbia, but there was a pretty common theme  – everyone loved decorating houses for Xmas. It’s not a place to sell curtains or blinds, as everyone is happy to let you peer inside through uncovered windows.

Alta at 15000 is a large tourist town with a rich history in slate mining, but carries the dark history of being one of Germany’s main sea bases where the notorious destroyer  Tirpitz ( sister ship to Bismarck) was based.

Before we got to the hotel we visited the Sorrisniva resort to view the Ice Hotel being constructed and due for opening next week.

Arrived in carpark and sidled up to what looked like a giant igloo about 10 metres high and 80 metres long.

We were ushered inside for a briefing on the construction of hotel number 27 on the site. It’s built in concert with a raft of ice sculptors. 

Full of knowledge we toured the partly completed building with its 24 rooms, chapel, gallery and bar. 

It was an amazing experience to see some finished sculptures and also watch the artisans at work.

From what we understand a stay involves laying in a sleeping bag on a raised plinth with no facilities in the room at $700 a night, plus bring your own bottle to pee in.

After being immersed in all that art we were marshalled outside to sit around a bonfire -more like a small campfire- sitting on reindeer skins sipping vodka from what else but an ice glass. Good vodka, good experience and no washing up. I’m

Back in the bus and lucky me is sitting next to the bus tour lady who suffers motion sickness. Not sure what song she was singing into a paper bag, but it didn’t sound or smell great. 

All that said she is an ex Kuwi racehorse trainer and we have had lots of good chin wags about racing.

 Got to our hotel , helped her off into the foyer , played the room key lotto game and and quickly unpacked and rugged up for the evenings Northern Lights chase.

The bus took us up over the Alta River which is legendary for its salmon – up to 30kg. It’s a haven for guided fishing tours at just A$1300 a day.

Up past the ice hotel and into the slate mountains of Paeskatun where we ended up at the Light Chaser HQ. A couple of experts talked us through myth, legend and a bit of science about the lights before we were fed a tasty curry soup, dessert and some hot drinks all topped off with some cinnamon cake.

Revved up we stood in blustery conditions at the first vantage point, this time unrewarded. It was a chase so we were soon on the bus chasing lights about 50 minutes away. Suffered our second and third strikes, but undeterred we sought another spot a bit more protected from wind,  but equally affected by the minus 10 temperature. 

The Indians were getting wrestless with the wait after 3 days of simply arriving and seeing the lights and were hatching plans for a mutiny and return to warmth of the hotel. Thankfully a few brave souls who had travelled nearly 20,000 Kms to see the lights convinced the guide to persevere. 

Perseverance was rewarded with another light showing, giving us a 4 peat. The coup de grace was snapping one just as a shooting star passed by . It’s the 6th photo below- guess that is all the luck used up.

Mainly bright green they were still stunning.

Frozen fingers, numb faces and broad smiles loaded back on the bus after 20 minutes to head back home to the warmth of the hotel, sated again in the Arctic Circle.

It was on the stroke of midnight when we got home and 5 hours of fun that will be recollected many times in the future.

Friday 12th December 2025

Around Honninsvag and North Cape

Finally found a bit of relief from the tour cold and enjoyed a sleep of the dead until 530- cough free.

Cold was the operative word with graders up early piling up the snow from overnight- ideal Snow Angel depth – if one of us can summon up the courage.

Dressed only to find my new merino shirt,which Jane packed,had me looking like the Purple Wiggle. Thank God for layering.

Another nice breakfast taken quickly to give us time to make most of the slight brightness in the sky.

Continue to be mesmerised by the huge snow covered mountain, with its avalanche / rockfall barriers, that towers over town.

Last night’s  cruise ship had been joined overnight by another bigger vessel and a dribble of passengers from both ships were traipsing the streets looking for photo opportunities.

The fishing fleet, pleasure boats and jet boats sat idle, many covered in snow after last nights heavy fall. Several cars parked in the street suffered a similar fate.The ski enthusiast would be licking their lips with the cover of powdery snow.

We wandered streets taking in the scenery and the array of colourful houses built dockside. Like most towns over here there was the obligatory fill of statues.

After a couple of hours it was back to join the crew for a ‘ crab experience’ optional tour. But not before a little bit of Jamaican bobsleigh training.

A quick trip through the tunnel and down a snowy road to the harbourside Sami styled  tepee where the eating part of the tour took place. A huge platter of King Crab bits and pieces was presented and eaten with much enjoyment.

Outside we were given a comprehensive briefing on the crab fishing industry. It was interesting that these fish can be caught in only 10 metres of water..

Even had a hands on experience with a 4kg one who was sadly destined for the table at the sitting following ours. He would be one of many to be dissected to provide the 1000 pieces to be devoured by tours today.

With dwindling stocks and an increasing fleet size the quota is being reduced by 40% next year which will annoy the revenous Asian market or this luvrstive tourist spot . Guess there will be enough fishing to provide footage for the TV show The Deadliest Catch.

Took a few parting shots of the stunning surroundings before  returning to the hotel for a warm up and then more shopping and wandering around before ending up in a brewery drinking a plate of Norwegian beers.

Prior to dinner watched the only English speaking TV show- a voiced over episode of Bluey – it just ain’t the same.

A nice buffet dinner was followed by 50 minute trip to the North Cape the most Northern spot up here. Honninsvag is the most northern city and Skarsvag the most northern fishing village. Seems everyone was looking for a subtle nuance to be closest to the North Pole.

What an adventure it was getting there on a snaking snow covered road with precipitous drops on each side. For once I was happy not to be in thr front seat and also the absolute darkness.

Got all the myths about Trolls and Cliffhanger on the way up to keep us amused and possibly take our mind off the narrow road.

Arrived at Nort Capp and went into the Visitor Centre with its cinema , cafe, gift shop, chapel, museum , bird collection, and an enormous rock cave. In between visiting all of these places, including a session on the champagne and caviar, we spent most of the time at the top of Europe in search of the Northern Lights – could we get the trifecta of three nights in a row.

Didn’t have to search much they were there in all their glory right across the sky in different colours and formations. It was a real snapathon and an air full of WOW’s.

A montage is at the bottom of the blog.

It was certainly something to behold and was complemented by spotting a shooting star, one of the zillions that

shine brightly in the night sky up here.

Two hours went by pretty quickly and  we were soon snuggled back into our new spacious bus wending our way down the hill. The headlights of the bus and the snow markets made you feel like it was a slalom competition as we picked our way down. If you can imagine Bulli Pass, Mount Victoria and Macquarie Pass all united and with snow it was a bit like that.

That ended another spectacular day. Tomorrow we head to Alta which is the Red Zone for Northern alights. It will need to be at its best to top today.

Thursday 11th December 2025

Ivalo to Honningsvag

Woke up to another coolish morning with the thermometer at -8. Enjoyed the view of the morning sky- pitch black- through the glass ceiling then packed up and headed for a walk around the compound through at least 6 inches of soft powdery snow in most places off the graded road.

Warmed up next to the log fire before enjoying breakfast and then heading to the bus for our 400km trip northward to the highest point in Continental Europe – a town called Homninsvag.

Its harbour to the local king crab fleet and we are hoping for a good catch as we are touring the fishing precinct on Friday and tasting the fare.

We won the barrel draw for front seat in the bus which provided a great view, but also scary moments when snow had visibility down to 30 metres on two lane roads where driving down the middle was order of the day.

Our guide has been outstanding with great commentary, a broad brush account of history/culture/politics and herding the cats beautifully to keep the show on timetable.

With Finland having a long border with Russia, they are vigilant in protecting their border. Little things like having the worlds highest percentage of its population war ready to building giant freeways wide enough to land military planes bears witness to their proactivity. 

Back on the road, often in convoy behind road snow ploughs or passing them on rolling  roads, flanked by kilometre after kilometre of frozen over rivers and lakes.

We crossed the border into Norway and the change in landscape was immediate with rolling hills turning into higher and craggier snow covered mountains.

Got some great historical background on the local indigenous people- the Sami – who are basically the Keepers of the Reindeer’. They have their own Government, but can only make recommendations to Parliament and not enact laws. 

There are 200,000 in Norway and they have a pretty impressivenew Parliament House  which we visited in -28 temperatures- it was a whistle stop visit  to jump out and take photographs in Karasjok.

Stopped for a lunch break at Lakselv under the glow of a hazy moon, with no sun rising today – starting to feel like we are morphing into owl or bats with the dark existence. 

A bit of sloshing through deep snow to visit the chemist to get some relief for the tour cough and $A48 lighter in the pocket we got 2 things that will hopefully help. You certainly pay a high price for overstaying your parking when it’s snowing if the cars in parking lot were any indicstion

It was back in the bus again for the last 2.5 hours   snaking along the Atlantic, then Norwegian Sea  which eventually joins up with North Sea. The next stop North is the North Pole. Fishing (crab and salmon farms) and oil production, along with a bit of tourism, are the prime industries.

Lots of small clumps of houses dot the roadside, most adorned in Xmas decorations. The number of snow ploughs and strengthening snow falls didnt augur well for seeing the Northern Lights.

Norway is big on tunnels with 2 on the trip covering about 23 kilometres, including the one just before the island of Honninsvag. It runs under water at a depth of 220 metres.

The long day came to an end in the dark when we drove into the mountain ringed town, which was ablaze with lights giving it a fairy tale  look.

Shivered our way across the car park into the hotel and up to our harbour view room with a unique feature for us – a 2 person sauna in the room. We were the only ones out of 14  to be that lucky.

A little sleep deprived we grabbed an hour’s kip before another tasty dinner which was interrupted by the bus driver announcing the lights were starting to appear.

It was a charge of the Light Brigade as people ran to rug up and take endless snaps of an array of ever increasing light shows. Was definitely a tick for another bucket list item.

With cameras and minds full of amazing pictures we headed off cold and damp to finish the day with a warm sauna.

What an end to our second full day of the tour.

Wednesday 10th December 2025

Helsinki to Ivalo

Today was full of nervous expectation as we headed for the town ofIvalo –  well above the Arctic Circle.

Sleep was often interrupted by all of the people in What’s App group pinging Tour Director asking questions about tomorrow that had already been answered last night – seems listening was only an option.

We were now in tour mode with times for every activity, eating and travelling in packs and working out the likely allies. 

Tour party was a mix of people from US, Canada, NZ, Singapore , South Africa and a good smattering of Aussies.

Fed and watered we were off to a very modern Helsinki airport. No passport checks but plenty of security with Jane again setting off the metal detector with the new knee. I was subject to a full body frisk – note to fellow future travellers don’t wear boxer shorts as both the frisker and friskee can be in for a surprise – what you might call a ‘touching experience ‘.

Plenty of shops in the terminal including the very popular Moomie store and strangely a second hand clothes store.

Toilets are another trap for young players with bidet hose rather than paper being the preference. Seems the inexperienced can clean themselves and also flood the cubicle.

Got to our gate to be informed that flight was overbooked and luggage space in overhead lockers was minimal. Call for volunteers got a couple of takers  and those with excessive baggage had it involuntary checked into the hold.

Packed plane took just under 2 hours before landing in a winter wonderland- the only bit with no snow was the runway. At 1230 it was almost pitch black and a welcoming -3 temperature. The fact there was no sunrise or sunset probably contributes to that.

Soon marching across the snow to board the bus and head to our accommodation Aurora Village in Ivalo.

The town has 3000 people and was completely destroyed by Germans after WW2.

The accommodation was essentially cabins with glass roofs, all sprinkled through the forested compound , with penned reindeers as neighbours.

Got quickly acclimatised before heading off to our first optional  tour – a 2 hour snow scooter journey. Dressed in survival suits and looking like a Darth Vader convention we headed to the starting grid.

Jane won the Rock Paper Scissors draw and had first drive  initially snaking through the forest and its snow covered trees before heading out onto a frozen river. Hopefully the metre of ice was enough to support the cavalcade of scooters.

At the turnaround point we swapped drivers and i found out just how well Jane had done. I managed to miss running into the one in front when I forgot it was a handbrake not a foot brake.

I was happy to get back unscathed and avoid the $1200 repairing fee we signed up for in the Waiver document.

Must say it is the best fun you can have with your clothes on.

Off the scooter and navigated the undressing process to head back into the hut to warm up and get prepared for the next activity feeding the herd of reindeers. Pretty ironic feeding them, including one unicorn type , then having some as the entree for bc dinner.

Dinner was late so we could possibly stay up and catch our first glimpse of the Northern Lights. No luck so we headed for home passing some interesting wildlife displays

Before laying in bed peering out the glass ceiling tryimg to spot them. It’s amazing that you don’t see them clearly but when you take a night slow exposure photo they show up pretty clearly.

The ding of the What’s Apo signalled something was happening with a multiple of sightings on the other side of the village. We had to be satisfied with the photos from bed at this stage.

The tour cold had infected us both and being unable to buy cold and flu tablets without prescriptions in Finland we coughed our way through the night.

It was definitely a day to remember.