Gobble Up Turkey

Take The Hat Off To Planning

On the advice of mine host we opted for a later start and doing todays walk in reverse.

Ample sized breakfast , quick photo snap and in the car heading for the starting point.

It’s interesting that the two hosts have had major career shifts one from Chemist and the other Film Producer to running a B and B . They definitely have the knack for the newest careers.

Heard more stories about the wild boars, wolves and savage dogs we might encounter today – I wonder if it’s their way of saying Aust is not the only country with fearful wild animals.

Again licked to death by the first 3 dogs we met on arrival, so hoping any other encounters are equally friendly.

I have always moaned about carrying a complete first aid kit, but today it worked wonders. Having left hat at home the trusty triangular bandage turned into head protection that made me look like a pirate or a Turkish housewife.

After about 20 steps we were wished well by two locals and provided with some apples and grapes to see us through. The rural people of Turkey seem to have a strong bond with those doing the walk.

 Better  trail today to start with, mainly consisting of flat uncropped fields with not a scrap of food for animals either – drought sure has affected them.

That said there were many wells  drilled into the fields and the old stone drop test proved they did have water.

Along with flatter track it was 10 degrees cooler with a light breeze, so walking was much more pleasant. Trusty GPS App also helped us find the way when markings failed.

Started to hear our first birds as we walked up amongst light cloud  which filtered our view of the coast.

The fields were mainly ringed by high stones and some old stone building were still there but obviously not used, as they were mainly filled with more stones. Why you would store rocks when thousands sit idly on the ground?

We heard about a local nomadic goat herder who often provides tea , food and  was a bit of a chatterbox We thought we spied him in a slightly tilled field , but no sign of goats only the sound of  rock breaking. 

On teaching his farm huge expanses of land had been gouged out from behind his house , rock breaking equipment was smashing huge boulders and new roads had been built – not something you would expect a nomadic herder to fund.

We walked passed without contact and on the top of the next hill came across a shelter which we assumed was his and like several other left a little thank you donation.

We were soon joined by a party of 20 British ramblers and their guide on a day walk. Guide advised the poor old herders land had been compulsorily acquired to allow a road to be built / to where nobody knows.. The tent was a workers hut, so guide scooped up the coins and promised to give them to the herder.

He had to find other accommodation for his 2000 goats with no compensation – sounds like treatment of people whose land made way for new airport in Sydney south-west.

Also joined by a couple of Russian walkers who we ate with at the B and B – they were disappointed, that what they thought to be a cafe was not open.

We continued on the dusty road getting great views off the coast of Kalkan which we had enjoyed at sea level. It is a remarkably picturesque coastline which photos don’t do justice.

After 3 hours we were back in the bush enjoying lunch on a rocky outcrop, before being back on stony paths rock hopping our way to the high point of the day., which was only an hour or so from home.

The difficult and often poorly marked trails didn’t pose as problematic to us, now we had walkers , not wooden legs, attached to our body and a new resolve.

Met a young German on our descent  who looked like a turtle with his huge pack, it must have weighed 20 kilos. He like us was headed for the finish in 20 or so days.

Again the effect of drought was shown by the gnarly old trees around the place.

After a minor navigation error we were on the final downward leg on a path covered in  pine needles or pebbles that had been laid to reduce erosion. Both great slip/ trip hazards.

Again a no fall day for both, but the last 10 metres of the track, ironically abutting the cemetery, was  the toughest part of the day- so barren of footholds it was a bum slide all the way down.

Finished walk in just on 5 hours and it was home to stand in the 1 square metre toilet /bathroom for a welcome shower.

Relaxing beer and snacks and a bit of blogging saw out a few hours in the afternoon, albeit with the regular interruption of the automated CTP from mosque amplifier and the 70 or so kids finishing school over the road.

No other guests so we dined with hosts and a friend around their dining table.

No worries all days coming up to enjoy the delights of seaside at Kas.

Quiet Start and Fiery Ending

More like holidaymakers hours today, starting with an 800 am
Terrace breakfast on an absolutely stunning day.

We decided the 1000 metre climb up out of town was for younger kegs and we walked to the bus station instead , ito take a bus to a place that looked about halfway and meant an early finish.

The struggle of the full bus up the hill immediately justified the decision and our sky high farewell to Kalkan was finished in 15 minutes.

A nasty bike and car accident slowed us down a little bit. Interestingly it’s the first we have seen in a country where frenetic driving is the norm.

To my surprise the first bus stop was about 300 metres from where we were staying this evening, which meant it was not all downhill on a supposed doddle day.

Arrived at final destination at a cute elevate village green where 8-10 locals were solving the problems of the world.

We got a few rations and started in party mode with an ice- cream at 1030am.

Wandered through a very old rural village which is starting to undergo a change with more city people building holiday houses to enjoy the mountain cool.

The rustic part of town was made up mainly of ramshackle country houses where humans and stock lived in close quarters. We came across an elderly lady walking her two goats and I decided to take a photo snap – not sure if she was hissed off at me or just keeping the goats moving with the hissing noise she made.

Next part of track , was probably fit more the goats than us as it climbed up the hill at 30 degree angle – just getting a foothold was difficult let alone making progress.

Reached about 2/3 of the way up and we lost the track. Thankfully the licals had built a new road in last few years and an over grown pathway proved an easier way forward to a juncture with a main road we needed to cross.

Looking at map we decided a road walk would take about the same time and be less of a foot slog.

We headed down an alpine way passed by a pair riding tandem on a scooter – Dad driving and coasting to save petrol and Mum on back with a bag of crops.

At the bottom we ended up at the same bus stop and headed off to find our rural B and B.

Half way we found a funky cafe with a range of different eating areas, including elevated platforms where you sat on the floor. The decor was amazing for a place in the middle of nowhere and owner was someone who would have safely fitted in at Byron Bay.

There was a table of guys who were either locals or campers eating, drinking and playing backgammon.

Decided to have lunch because it was s bit early for B and B arrival.

Put our order in and watched an elderly lady wander around collecting sticks and then a fry pan in preparation to cook our lunch of meatballs and some form of a Turkish toasted sandwich on a fuel stove. They were both delicious.

It looks as though Croc’s are the shoe of choice here, with males and females , young and old wearing them -everywhere.

Found B and B in a prime position 5 metres from roads edge and next door to Mosque and opposite quite a large school.

Operators were a couple of thirty somethings , a lovely Turkish girl and the other her French partner. Both spoke good English.

Room was small but comfortable, with bathroom being a true WC, it was a metre by metre cupboard in which you took all ablutions.

Outdoor balcony had great rural views and of mountains we would have walked down had we not trod the road. They didn’t make good viewing as a bushfire had swept through on the weekend. It was probably where those water tankers were going on weekend because it would be impossible to fight it any other way.

When booking in we ran into the same Turkish walkers we have met on other days, but that was last we saw of them.

Quiet afternoon waiting for baggage to arrive so we could change. After changing went into town and provisioned up for tomorrow. On way in we noticed kids sand pits here are a little different- they are gravel pits.

In discussion with owner in the evening he said it would be an easier walk if he drove us to finishing town and we walked it in reverse. After such a lovely dinner who could refuse.

After dinner spent a little time reconstructing yesterdays blog which I accidentally deleted.

The sunset here was amazing.















Groundhog Day

On a new regime now, walking less, stopping more, drinking more water on the way.

Another sensational breakfast filled up the tank for our first 45 minute hike up hill. Despite being full the ladder against the fig tree proved too encouraging for Jane until she took the first step.

Whilst we were climbing Turkish workers and families sped down the opposite way on scooters, often with unsecured kids pouched in front of the driver- no such thing as helmets for anyone.

Spent the next hour and a bit trying to traverse an area of massive construction where the Have’s of society are building huge villas with spectacular views and the inevitable infinity pool. Sadly they have obliterated the track and it’s markings and we spent lots of time trying to find the way forward, which even meant going through peoples backyards.

Solved the puzzle and arrived in first town of the day where we had been warned to look out for wild dogs. I had loaded all the pockets with rocks and Jane was at the ready with walking poles. After walking a further 5 Kim’s on rough bush tracks across streams that had not seen a lick of rain in recent times, we came across our first beast at s farm and promptly rolled over for a belly rub. At this point we disarmed and moved on confident the threat was over.

Got lost and did some highway walking into the next town for lunch at a local cafe with all of the locals.

Off again to find another trail which was remnants of the old aqueduct. Found it and heaps of overgrown bushes which provided a free dermabrasion as we picked our way through the rubble.

Then it happened around s bend and the rubble turned into a full blown construction 100 meters wide 25 meters of the ground and about a meter of walking area down the middle. At that point I reslisedvFrozen was not just s movie. I was rooted to the spot thinking about my fear on something 20 times smaller than this.

Jane reassured me it would be fine – if only she was in my pants. The reassurance came from the fact she saw a no entry sign and a track marker leading to the side, I was relieved but my heart was still thumping when we reached the bottom.

It was an amazing construction and was actually a giant siphon, bits has fallen off during time and made interesting viewing.

Found our way through s keyhole exit and made for the road for our rendezvous with our pack carrier who was taking us to Kalyan to stay the evening.

Took a while and in the interim we had fun picking the pricked out of our docks, accumulated along the way.

Drove into Kalyan and it’s an amazing seaside resort with villas and units adorning the hills and the main part of town on steep roads that led to the beach.
It had every conceivable store imaginable.

Found our 2nd floor apartment just above the shopping and cafe precinct and luckily mine host lugged our bags up.

Nice comfortable room with a good view to beach and offshore islands,- size wise it was smaller than last nights bathroom. It also had a very low entry door into room and the shower closet- both took off a bit of bark from head of this slow learner

After changing had tea and cake with owner on terrace rooftop dining area before heading off on a tour which included more terrace activity at s bar and then a restaurant.

Everywhere we went it was full of Pom’s and we later found out it’s a Little England which is slowly taking over from Spain and Portugal since Brexit.

Did another lap of town before bing serenaded by doof doof music from bars and drifting off to hum of the refrigerator, after a much more enjoyable day











Just Bumming Around

Found out that Mosque sending out all the noise was  built 6 months ago and only 5 families in the town. Apparently the Govt are trying to rally up support by building them everywhere and anywhere.

With a maximum temperature of 34-35 predicted today it was up very early so we could get some kilometres under the belt before it got too hot on a shorter day, but with much trickier terrain. That is including crossing a very rickety aqueduct. I had been having nightmares about it and certain Jane will publish pictures of a terrified human being on Facebook bumming their way over it.

 We met the owner who was also our tour operator and nice to put a face to someone who had been so helpful in organising.

Usual fabulous meal and snapped a good photo of Bucky the dog.

Lumped bags down the spiral staircase and soon off and away to the starting point in Cavdir.

With imminent threat of death later in day , it was appropriate we started walk in a cemetery. Not sure how they measure age here, but some people’s birth year was 1323- I know there is lots said about healthy lifestyle – but 800 years old, it will need more investigation. 

Hothouses continued to dominate the Delta below,  whilst new villas were doing likewise on the hillsides to take in sweeping views. One had that many drain holes he was likely to cause a flood down the hill if it rained.

Then it happened, the broken acqueduct bridge. I completely lost my nerve and bummed my way across, looking at the fall below.

We had been walking in full sun on a day with no breeze and some predicted shelter under Mosque failed to materialize as we went off track.

Aqueduct turned into a 50cm wide concrete dish and it was our track. Except for when the thorny bushes had us on a makeshift dirt path , close to the edge.

As predicted in the book the track was heavily overgrown and it was a battle of the scratches as we made our way along- we were bleeding like wounded soldiers. You had to be careful walking on bush lined narrow tracks as they would often be strong enough to bounce you off balance.

Dropped anchor after 2 hours and stripped off to try and get a bit of breeze on the body as clothes were saturated and had developed a massive thirst, even after taking on 2 litres of water. 

Water did not prove a problem in next 600 metres as we came across the famous water canal from the hilltop spring. Although about 50 cm wide it was a rushing torrent and we drank and filled our bottles with gay abandon- didn’t matter how wet we got. 

Came across an old fella with a set of ‘tooth’ worse than Bucky the dog. He thought we might get lost so decided to be our Sherpa  for about 500 metres leading us to walk in water about 20 centimeters deep. I think he asked for a cigarette, but I gave him what I thought was enough to buy a beer- turned out to be Euros- no wonder the quizzical  look. 

More balancing acts in the creek, but not a single fall today, maybe adoption of the military approach ie saying left right in my mind and watching every footstep land and stopping to take in the view helped.

Finally out of the creek and after a challenging uphill to the road, it was downhill for a while – 200 metres. That said we had a fabulous vista back to the way we had just walked.

Next was trying to get up a roadside cutting to get onto the track about 15 metres above. Lost the plot after 3 aborted  attempts and yelled something at Jane and stomped off looking for easier access.

Scrambled or more like crawled up and got onto the semi dirt track  and walked to within touching distance of home – looking for a track downhill.

After more than 4 hours we stopped , regrouped, ate some chocolate and read the guidebook. At the same time we took in the pleasures of a nice breeze and filled up on water to face the 50 minutes to walk around a valley and find an uphill road into town.

Timing was right and we trod the last 750 metres uphill to accommodation to be greeted by the nicest hosts to date. The son spoke perfect English.

We ended up in a first floor apartment ie lounge, bedroom and bathroom , being the only guests and to boot they lugged our cases up the stairs.

A long cold shower, some tea and fruit and then hallelujah a dip in their magnificent cold infinity pool. 

Followed that with a lay in the shade and some great conversation with the boy who is a system tester. 

Over half an hour we ran over the economy, politics ( including huge influx of Russians), Covid  pandemic , weather, education, their family situation – this is actually their summer house , his job, his Dr sister and bits about Australia. 

Unfortunately, parents speak no English but tried ever so hard to be welcoming.

They believed It was the hottest day of the year, thankfully tomorrow in only 28 and we are heading for the beach.  The smell of smoke and a couple of large firefighters flying overhead suggest they were correct and fires are nearby.

Dad was playing computer speed  chess and Mum like many Turkish women making something to eat.

I think it’s pretty much a society of have’s and have nots with little middle class. All the same they are all very welcoming.

Got internet and saw Parra’s  demise and an email from Michelle showing me a cut on Mitchell’s leg, inflicted on last school day, which makes mine look like a mossie  bite.

What a surprise another sumptuous meal. 

Over dinner we got all the fine points of Turkish wrestling being shown on Tv which Dad had his eyes glued onto right through dinner. Interesting they are thinking of duplicating the house in backyard – must be some money in B and  B’s over here

Got things organised for another early start tomorrow, then off to the Queen sized bed for a sleep.

No local rooster and it was a misoperating  automated Call to Prayer to wake us and celebrate October 1st – The National Rest Day of International Walkers.

Late breakfast and laying around the pool was about as active as we got in the morning, reflecting on our past couple of days and endlessly reviewing the guide book to see what tomorrow was to bring on a day predicted to be 35.

All that reflecting pushed us through till lunchtime and then simply more lazing thinking about the history of Turkey and realising it in its own right, since the days of liberation under Ataturk, is less than 100 years old. Little wonder when you Google up famous people the second after Ataturk is a singer from the 80’s. 

Guy fixing the announcement system  at the mosque had no luck and most of afternoon peace was filled with static and shrill noises. 

Next bit of exercise dinner and drinks, then musing over how to get suitcase down the stairs tomorrow And that was it for a tortuous day.

Feeling much better to face the up and down walk along a decrepit ancient aqueduct tomorrow. 

What a Diffetece A Day Makes.

Finally had a morning not awoken by call to prayer- the Turkish military thought artillery practice was more appropriate. It hits home when a neighbouring country is actually experiencing the noise every day.

Knee a bit sore, but strapping has done the trick and stopped bleeding not sure how the wound is going. A half day walk might tell the story.

Got a taxi ride with the former Turkish rally car champion in his car from 1980 , with flat bald tyres intact. With four of us and luggage he wheel spun up the gravel path. The next hour on alpine roads and hairpin bends had me barelnuckled by the end.  

Got let out and  walked on a mixture of roads with fabulous ocean views on tough tracks , often hard to follow. The  next bit was a a stark reminder of yesterday with a 3km walk up on a thing loosely described as a track to about 675 metres and then found our Turkish cultural family stay.

That was after a trip through the famous Sidyma ruins which consisted of two buildings and getting two lots of comtrary instructions from locals.

What innovation , two tin garden sheds converted into a bedroom and a separate shower and toilet, all overlooking the chook shed and canvas cabana. Can see why all the cats are outside- there is no room to swing one in our apartment.

Ingenious use of waste shower water it ran onto the verge garden.

Looking forward to the family dinner experience as they seem lovely people.

Dinner was healthy and plentiful and our first alcohol free night.

Went to bed and it was a bit disorientating as the floor walls and ceiling were all made of the same material. That said slept ok.

Walking into Weird Pet Land

The rooster beat the CTP in the alarm stakes and we were up for an early start to try and beat the heat

Usual fabulous healthy breakfast and we were off, albeit geographically challenged for the first 15 minutes, before finding the trail which was a surprising 3  kilometre hill walk on the road.

We probably outnumbered the cars and as for animals we heard 3 birds. 

Alas those numbers were to change at the top of the hill when we came across the ultimate mixed grill, spent with turkeys, sheep, goats and chickens, all guarded by a sleepy dog. Unlike many of the fields and farm land it was not drought stricken and had ample  food scattered around.

Next it was a road walk down into a tiny town Bel which consisted of no more than 10 houses and a mosque.

A little more road and then up onto the rocky trails and into some forests where we chatted to a couple of young Germans , with huge packs. They gave us a glimmer of hope when mentioning it was downhill for next 5 Kms – after we reached the next town.

Next town was a deserted goat farm occasionally visited by the owner, who just happened to be around herding his flock.

Left him and found the 650 foot down track and just looking from the top you wondered how the backpackers got up

It was a mix of rock scrambles, dirt , sharp rocks, soft edges and scree. Marking was abysmal and thankfully GPS guided us onto track on most occasions. 

Any wrong move, especially going down one leg at a time was fraught with danger and there was a couple of bum flops and plain old flops onto rocks to stay on or near the track. Jane suffered a few similar experiences.

It was around 33 all day in exposed heat and despite taking in plenty of water I am sure I was dehydrated or mildly sunstruck, as decision making was poor.

Reached the bottom and a welcoming little home shop where we rested and took on drinks. Just before arriving I was looking for a taxi, but because it was only 4 Kms with a couple of steep hills we went on.

First part on road was fine, but steep hills out of valley was a killer  and  emptied the tank. A bit of road walking in hot sun was ok, but once onto rocky areas with bad markings and poor balance it was a chore.

Found ruins but getting in with dicky leg was difficult and took a tumble and struggled to regain feet as all my energy was sapped.

I do recall some great beach views along the coast as we walked down to and through tne ruins.

Stumbled more than walked through ruins before coming to a dead end – in the shape of a reedy lake. Hailed a local who rowed us over for the cost of a beer, after a less than glamorous boat entry.

Walked to bus stop and waited 45 minutes for a ride, during that time engaged with a weird Russian walker whose desire to catch up later might not be our desire. 

Hothouses seemed to be the only form of agriculture  on the way back up beautiful mountain roads to our equally beautiful accommodation. 

Slight problem might be Sunday getting down winding narrow external staircase with luggage and a dicky knee.

It’s great room overlooking pool.

Jane repatched tne wound which is looking ok and hopefully a rest today will help.

Had a few drinks and got back some sense of normality before a beaut dinner – wonder if it is what the locals eat or it’s just tourist fare.

Went to bed at 830.

Hotel Rating – Sidyma

Position – off route in a rural setting on edge of village where ruins situated. 

Room –  converted garden shed with panelling top to bottom. No room for bags

Shower – good shower bit minimal hot water

Staff – friendly and helpful. Spoke some English 

Food – excellent choice, plenty of it, healthy choices 

Extras costs – none

Packed Lunch – soggy sandwich and can of cokepacked lunch taken.- got what we paid for.

It’s All Patched Up

The now familiar call to prayer had us awake at 550, ready to face the challenges of what looked like a tough Day 1 to Kabak.

The now familiar breakfast, taken with a little less eagerness fuelled us up.

Unfortunately our host forgot to pick us up and it was nearly 945 before we arrived at the gates to the walk.

The air was full of hang gliders and little did we know we would be up amongst them in a few hours.

The track signage wasn’t great and no amount of training could have prepared us for the first leg of walk.

A snaking, steep and rocky track, sometimes only a metre wide and in one place supported by a tree branch after erosion had eaten it away, took us up to 800 metres. If only we had jumped aboard the chairlift we passed under early in proceedings.

Whilst the climb was tough the scenery all the way up was amazing with the coastline dotted with resorts and strings of sailing boats. From on high it didn’t appear many were swimming.

Doof  Doof music floated up to the top of the hill and we could hear conversation of hang glider pilots and almost touch them.

The distractions did not take away the difficulty of the track and there were frequent stops to catch one’s breath and take a drink.

There were not many people heading up who passed us, but it was like Pitt St coming down with loads of fit youngsters springing down the hill.

The surrounding mountains steepled up into the sky and there was still plenty of evidence of the earthquake in 50’s with huge areas of scree and tumble down boulders sitting above newly constructed houses.

Teaching  the top was a relief but not a respite as we soon tramped uphill on dirt roads. It was extremely difficult to maintain your rhythm.

We finally found a downhill section albeit rocky which led down onto road – hallelujah flat road. 

We then fell victim to the guide book which took us off the tarmac and onto an old track littered with fallen power poles-  who knows what caused them to fall, but they made progress difficult. The final

Uphill stretch of about 300 metres on a 1:3 gradient was nigh on impossible with little or no footholds.  The galling part was it popped out onto the road we deviated from. 

This first day is probably the toughest Day 1 of any walk we have done.

Back on the road and passed 30 kids of the goat variety coming unescorted up the hill.

After some solid downhill walking we reached the halfway point of today and squatted for lunch with a couple from Israel who were walking various segments of the Lycian Way.

Our spirit of excitement was lifted when we saw the last part to our next landmark was all downhill. They were shattered when after 100 metres it was back onto steep and rocky descents for about 3 kilometres.

It was 240 and with 3-4 hours of walking left and our spirits and physical condition waning we decided to bus for the last bit to Kabak.

Local bus arrived in 30 minutes and with help of a friendly local ended up at our hotel – a no kids joint with sensational views, a pool and cute wooden bungalows as accommodation. They must have known something about our trip to Versailles because we had a 4 poster bed with the attendant curtains.

Jane whizzed down to do some washing and I managed to take a tumble getting out of spa bath on a slippery floor.

Banged a few body parts and ended up with a 20-30cm cut in my knee.

Jane applied first aid and can only hope it gets better quickly and the Steristrips and tape keep it all together. If they don’t tomorrow might be a day at the beach and a cab to the accommodation.

Had a sumptuous Turkish feast for dinner next to a tour group of 14 women doing a laid back version of the walk for 4 days.

Let’s hope tomorrow brings brighter things.

Dressed to Kill

No news overnight on the luggage and a new alarm clock in the shape of a Call to Prayer had us up at 600am 

Pulled back the curtains and got a daylight view of the Travertine cliffs which were dotted with a swag of hot air balloons and hang gliders – twas truly spectacular

A quick shower and no time wasted working out what clothes to wear.

Down to breakfast and if this is atypical , we will need to either walk further each day or insult the hosts and not eat what is served up. Then again we could simply let out the belt a notch or two.

First job today, after booking bus tickets to Fethiye, was to get some suitable clothes to explore the ruins and swim in the Ancient thermal pools.

I lucked in early with some €7.5 ‘Nike’ board shorts which were the worst copies you would see.

The proper clothes store was up the hill. It was a Gucci store in the middle of nowhere and when Jane picked up a T-Shirt the girl said ‘ that is tour bus prices you are local guests it’s half price’. Even at half price it was ridiculously expensive so we headed further up the road and bought a swimsuit , shorts and thongs for Jane and hat and thongs for me for about $60, which was probably overpriced. But we needed them.

The ever keen eyed owner spotted another opportunity and shuttled us up to the ruins in his Mercedes for $5.

The ruins site was amazing and spread over a vast area in rocky steep hills. It seems to date back to at least 3AD .

The amphitheater with seating for a 1000 was in amazing condition and the steep steps were a bit too daunting to traverse.

Apollo and his mates lived here and there was a great sculpture of Cerebus the 3 headed dog, a favourite of Freddy Dupree.

There are so many pieces of artifacts just laying around the site and archaeologists were still on active dig sites.

Greatest hit of the day was the Ancient thermal pool which was supposedly a favourite of Cleopatra.

We donned our swimmers and spent an hour in this warm thermal pool with people of all shapes and sizes just floating around, dodging the odd 2000 year old rocks and getting a foot massage from the pebbled bottom.

There were enterprising photographers in the pool rustling up customers to have pictures in a whole range of places, 

Some trying to strike the mermaid pose could have been mistaken for beached sea mammals – but who am I to judge.

Out of the pool and it was down to the white Traventine pools which were cut into the cliff face and constantly fed by thermal water. 

They were beautiful to look at but some of the rocky paths tested old Mr Tenderfoots resilience and pain tolerance. The pools wended their way for about 750 metres along the cliff faces. There was even a canal going from top to bottom with running thermal waters in which many dangled the weary feet.

The end of the pools route led into the township where we grabbed lunch and listened to a very clever parrot imitate either an incoming email alert or the cafe’s microwave alarm. He also mimicked the call to prayer when it played at 100pm.

With hearts in our mouths we headed back to the Hotel and the thumbs up from owner was a heartening sign as he led us into baggage storage – Viola the bags had arrived and the split watermelons smile appeared on our faces.

Changed into fresh clothes and took minibus to the major terminal for our 4 hour trip to Fethiye.

There is only one word for the landscape – RUGGED- the only flat spots seem to be the roads Just on the roads they are as  mountains rugged but also windy. The majority of main highways appear to be getting a major overhaul.

Where there is flat land there ate heaps of market gardens, with much of the produce sold in roadside markets. An intriguing thing on trip was driver pulling  up to one, tooting the horn and owner running out with a cuppa – the ultimate drive through restaurant ,

Stopped halfway for a toilet and drinks break. Like many European countries this Eurasian  country has picked up the trait of charging for WC use- I must say not much is churned back into maintenance.

The driver did a fantastic job navigating his way up and down dale avoiding trucks, tractors And other farm vehicles, plus people constantly overtaking, on very narrow roads. 

About an hour  out of Fethiye a lot small satellite downs with newer houses started to appear, but it didn’t sto the chickens dogs and cats wandering the streets.

Use of mobiles whilst driving and no use of seatbelts seems to be the norm in Turkiye. That said did see a pullover stop manned by several  police, so they do monitor something.

Arrived safely and took a taxi to

our  new vew hotel, The Minu,  situated very centrally in an arcade and next to an unstoppable disco, which obviously complements the call to prayer. 

This is a seething tourist spot which I imagine has become very popular with Yanks given the US centric shops and fast food outlets. It was amazing to see your groups of 50 marching up and down the streets – not too many Aussies accents to date,

We went shopping to provision up for day 1 of the walk, knocked back a pint of my now favourite EFES Pilsner and headed home to

Finalise setting up our backpacks for tomorrow. 

Getting mildly excited  about walking and exploring this amazing country. After 3 months in the planning,.

aler

Keystone Cops Adventure

Awoken early with news we were leaving an hour early because you needed to be at airport 3 hours before the flight.

Left our beaut little Air B and B which had proved to be the ideal launch pad for our daily adventures.

Onto a crowded airport train, only to be off loaded after 3 stations because it got redirected mid journey. Luckily only a short delay and we we soon doing the terminal marathon to find check-n 

All worked out ok and our luggage was being sent through to Denizli , even though we had a 2.5 hour stopover programmed.

At least we knew where our gate was because it was next to where we started our journey. Security and Customs were a breeze and we were at our gate well before the 1120 takeoff time.

Quick brekky and we were soon on board ready to head off to Istanbul.

As has been the case in Europe we were ready but plane wasn’t,’. 

It was I 2 or so hours of incessant repairs to he engine outside my window before we took off. We were a bit concerned as we had only factored in a 2.5 hour cutover.

Gods old Captain made up exactly no time and seemed to tease us even more with a never ending taxi to the gate,

We got off with 27 minutes left before flight took off with a 1500 metre gap between the two planes and needimg to go through transit, customs and security. 

Ran about 500 metres to transit area where woman waved us through saying ‘I think they will hold for you’ . Another 500 metres to Customs  where we scooted through into Security. 

After removing nearly everything I had on and shoving everything  back into the backpack and having no time to rethread the belt the next 500 metres could only be from a Keystone Cops script.

Here is a fat 70 something backpack in one hand and holding up pants with the other , ducking and weaving people on the travelator. At some stage it involved  runnig on one in the wrong direction and wondering why progress was so slow and people were waving  and pointing at me.

I can’t imagine what tailgunner Jane was thinking of her fearless leader. On top of that neither of us had run that far in years.

A last ditch sprint down the gangway and on with about 3 minutes to spare, 

Thank God we could sprawl out in the extra legroom seats. With breath caught we spent most of the flight wondering if ground staff were so nimble and got our bags on board.

Whilst getting darker we were starting to see the terrain we were likely to tread in the coming days wondering if Sherpa Tensing’s relatives might like a job.

Arrived in Denizli and found the non existent Customs or Security and  a baggage carousel full of bags except ours.

Time with airline staff established they were still in Istanbul and might come in the next couple of days . Not news we wanted but nothing we could do.

Found our shuttle and enjoyed a quiet trip with our two fellow  Russian passengers.

Arrived at our Pammukale hotel and got some great support from the hosts. Our room was great and had a perfect view of the Tramentine cliffs and the ruins of Heraklion where Apollo had resided.

A couple of beers calmed the nerves a bit and went to bed to toss and turn thinking of all the plans we could put in place if baggage did not arrive ,