Gobble Up Turkey

It’s purported that Hippocrates said ’walking is man’s best medicine’, but one has to wonder whether it relates to hiking / trekking because the only medicine involved in this walk was to treat one’s injuries, aches and pains. The mind had little time to absorb the joy.

Perhaps a little more in depth research would have helped, but that doesn’t help now, we can only reflect on what a really challenging undertaking it was and take some solace and pride from the fact we made the 509 kilometres relatively unscathed..

Today started with a pre- dawn rising and early breakfast before leaving to go 30 km downhill and 20km uphill to the starting point on the other side of the valley.

Not sure if it was host’s previous pilot experience, but a check of cars breaks before going down the steep hills seemed reasonable given the outcome of any brake failure.

Got to see an amazing sunrise across the Mediterranean and then headed for the hills, evading a pack of 4 dogs who chased the car. Not sure if the thud as we passed by was a pothole or we collected one. On the way back there was no carcass visible, so they must have survived.

Given the driver often took people to the starting point his balancing the GPS  and checking it every 20 seconds was quite distracting, especially when there was only one road to follow.

As we moved up into the hills a couple of slow cars in front gave him the privilege of overtaking on a hairpin bend, probably 10 metres separated us from hitting another car caming around in the opposite direction.

I sat with my eyes closed for the next few minutes, as we weaved our way through mountain roads just wide enough for one car.

After more GPS watching came a cry from Jane in the back ‘ we will get off here, think we have missed the track start’. Driver dropped us off, headed in opposite direction and we found the steep track down, plus a mangy mutt as a guide

It was steep and rough with many traps hidden by pine needles. Bboth of us took tumbles but mainly skin off, pride hurt and no major injuries.

Wound our way down for about 4 kilometres before a quick road walk and 2 more kilometres of the steep downhill which ended with a water crossing.

Most was on a wall and then some

slippery rocks, which I deftly avoided by going ankle deep in water and giving my boots a much needed wash.

We passed another set of ruins, just for the sake of it

About 200 metres up the road  a sign signalled the start /finish of the walk, though the track went another 700 metres up on to the main road according to the trail guide.

We had officially finished ‘twice’ at 1020pm, some 28 days since we started. Took  the obligatory photos and headed back to a camping ground to wait for our ride to arrive and ferry us to  Antalya 

Where we finished is very popular with climbers and we watched people free climb up some pretty crazy slopes- made you feel a bit of a wimp complaining about slipping off trails.

Jane spent the time reflecting on the great outcome of the golf club annual meeting which saw the silly old men lose the push to eliminate fixed start times for women on Saturdays. Her contribution before leaving played a major part in the success, so happy for her to hold onto the’ cat who got the cream’ smile.

Picked up in the absolute peace of the mountains and within 40 minutes back into the mayhem of Antalya. a city of 2 million and the traffic that goes with it.

The GPS was working overtime, like the horn on driver’s car, as we weaved our way through the one lane streets of the Old City in search of our hotel.

Finally arrived and what a wonderful  finish to the trip down. A hotel spread across 4 old Ottoman buildings and reeking with charm and history. Our room was beautifully furnished and comfortable.

Took a stroll through the town which is amazing. As expected it was  tourist oriented with restsurants, bars, trinket sellers and even Turkish Rug Shops with no ‘Closing Down Soon’ signs.

The architecture was stunning as was the views across the harbour, where ships new and old ferried the tourists around to the scenic highlight spots.

Enjoyed a drink in a garden bar within the courtyard of a grand old house. Surprisingly prices were reasonable, which was maybe a sign the tourist season is winding down or competition post Covid is tough.

A bit more wandering around in a town where dogs are catching up with cat numbers. Both are everywhere you walk, drink or eat.

Then it was a  bit of a  rest  for a body which seems to have realised that the walk is over and time to release the hidden aches and pains.

Enjoyed dinner at a traditional restaurant, where two staff serviced about 60 people and we had a short burst of entertainment from the 5 piece band, before treading deserted quite streets back to the comfort of a full sized bed.

Well looks like the message got through yesterday.

After a breakfast , the same ilk

 as dinner, we were surprised that our other guest was the driver to take us up 9 Kms to the top of the mountain.

We think he was equally surprised by the role on a very narrow, rough and winding road where passing would have been difficult which he would not have done previously.

 His cautious progress did not stop him regularly checking the GPS  ( why I don’t know) , taking in the view and looking for potential rockfalls. It took almost 30 minutes to get to the top and that included a stop to let the only 3 cows we have seen in Turkey cross the road. 

At the top we were greeted by two older folks trying to sell us some provisions- ‘no thanks’  doesn’t cut the mustard up here and we had to walk away with one in pursuit.

Todays walk down on a road  was probably the first time we were able to walk lazily and soak in the amazing scenery. The mountains over here ate huge, rugged and scarred with slips and their craggy outline gives an eerie appearance. 

We could see the town we were going to walk to high on the horizon and were happy with the call to give it a miss, despite the amazing position at the top of the pass.

The hillsides were dotted with the  occasional farm and what looked like holiday houses. On top of the highest mountain behind us stood an ever present mosque.

Still an amazing shortage of animal life and the mountain streams have no water running. Mountain springs must be well disguised but at the same time well used with lots of pipes with running water heading down the hillside.

Came across an unusual garden setting perched on some fenced land on a hairpin bend  – how anybody got to them was the question.

Not too many hikers out today coming up or down the hill, with cars outnumbering them. Car drivers obviously knew the road and went up at a veritable breakneck speed compared to our first timer. That said I think I would have been the same and probably took a bit of wear out of the brakes going down.

Landslips were evident all the way down and in many places protective fencing had been built, but not sure chain wire would stop some of the huge hanging boulders we saw.

Our three hour dawdle down the hill finished near the middle of town, just in time to be serenaded by the CTP which I think I can now recite by rote. I even gave an impromptu rendition on the roadside.

About 20 metres down the road an old local ran to the fence yelling out and Jane thought he was berating me for my singing, it just turned out to be an act of kindness to give us  a pomegranate.

janebstopped for a little contemplation and I found a piece of equipment which would have been helpful days earlier.

Just up the road a car  pulled ip in the middle of the road on a curve and driver had a fine chat about how the walk was- even as traffic flew by.

Headed towards the local market but came across what looked like a cafe. Got greeted like old friends (no wonder after what he ended up charging us) and shown to a table overlooking the rubbish heap.

When asked what was on the menu. He shook his head and opened a huge refrigerator with a side of something in it.

We nodded, not knowing what we were getting, and he carved off a slab and sliced it up before disappearing into perhaps a kitchen area. We could not see because of the three empty refrigerators that were between him and us.

Ten minutes later, it was a bowl of salad and followed by something in a pan concealed under a pile of bread. The voila moment revealed a delicious looking meat concoction. Before eating we asked if it was lamb and received a ‘baa’ replied. Although a little tough it was very tasty.

Halfway through he produced ced a soup  which was basically inedible.

His profit was probably tastier when he charged us 250 Lira. 

Headed home and started the preparing and packing for the final day of the walk tomorrow, when we will finish and ask the one short question – Why?

What a luxury, no alarm, no walk and a lingering 900am breakfast.

The only walk we got was to the beach and return about 5km in total.

The walk into town twisted below the mountain and across a completely dry 30 metre wide river which led to the sea. Makes you wonder when every house, farm and town draws it water from upstream whether it has an impact.

Walking to the hum of a band of quad bikers we ended up in a completely new world. Huge modern hotels and apartments, fabulous roads and kilometre long streets filled with high end shops.

While the hotels and their private beaches were packed with guests there was hardly a soul in any of the shops or on the streets. Perhaps end of season and being a Sunday was the reason.

Access to beach was difficult as Security  Guards were stationed  at each gate making shortcuts impossible.

Finally found the Public beach and paid our fee to have a chair and shade. I asked the Cashier for my tickets in case they checked and his response was ‘ do you really’ – sounds like he might have pocketed the proceeds.

Typical stony beach,  with reef shoes making for an easy entry into slightly chilly water, which was 2.5 metres deep within 10 metres of shore. The high level of salinity certainly let you know where all your scratches were.

After some time relaxing in the sun we walked  back to town and came across and amazing hotel called the TRANSTLANTIK which is built in the shape of a ship and fitted out similarly inside. Thought we would look inside and must not have passed the ‘looks like a rich Russian ‘ test and were politely asked to leave by Security. Suppose wet cosies hanging off the backpack might have been a giveaway that we were not guests.

The town is a little Russia with most stores names displayed in both Russian and Turkish – none in English.

Found a cafe for lunch with usual band of Turkish blokes just drinking tea and eating nothing. Maybe it was because they were only serving the breakfast menu – so we had Spanish styled eggs and usual basket of bread.

We were more in the old town and it really showed that Goynuk is now a town serving the visitors rather than the locals. Along the beach it was like Surfers Paradise and five streets in you were on dirt roads.

The local taxis do a roaring trade on the flash side of town while on the other old men in converted two person mobility scooters were ferrying  people around. 

Interesting building codes here, one 3/4 storey place had all of

Made our way back to accommodation and sipped on a beer waiting to be ferried about 40 Kms back into the hills.

Interesting ride back with our driver, a former pilot,  running several red lights – guess there were no red lights in the sky.

The coastline was beautiful, lined with beaches and fantastic views in both directions. The mountains were craggy giants and we got our first sight of Antalya. It was gobsmacking, firstly there was a huge harbour and in the distance the entire peninsula looked to be occupied by multi level apartments. It was a bit like a Legoland.

The roads were great and often tunnelled through the mountains. There were plenty of police doing random checks- mainly motor bikes. Luckily not speeding vans,  else we would have been pinged more than once.

We branched off through an estate , supposedly built specifically for Russians and Ukrainians, which resembled areas around Mascot airport. Just wondering how relations are presently.

Our trip up to 1200 metres on a windy road passed dozens of cars pulled over on the side of the road with people taking advantage of the sea view and having picnics.

We ended up on a hillside B and B about a kilometre from town with great mountain views from our first floor room, accessed by a stairway which might not pass building code.

Dinner was billed as likely best on tour- it must have been self rated. Yoghurt soup, baked  beans, rice and a frozen pepper. No signs of the much written up wife, only a male guest or a close personal friend joined us for dinner.

As with 99.99% of Turkish B and B’s ,  this was no exception with 6 at one stage with one sharing our sofa seat at dinner. Poor old Lucky had been blinded by the grandson poking him in the eye with a pencil. Jane, the cat lover she is, nearly added to his tale of woe by ‘gently’nudging him under the expandable table which  thankfully did not collapse on impact. Don’t think mine host was too impressed because he picked him up and sat him on his lap while eating dinner muttering something like ‘ he is my family’.

Planned for a shortened walk tomorrow to try and save the guy a couple of 80 Kms round trips and us a ridiculous up and down. Same the next day by amending the trail we will also help both groups out and have some extra time in Antalya.. We think we negotiated the arrangement over dinner, but only time will tell- you can only rely on Google Translate so much.

If I was Lucky the cat I think I have about 4 lives left based on todays trek – I can no longer be called a walk. What an adventure walking to, into and out of a Canyon can be.

The day started off perfectly with clear blue skies and a predicted 24 degrees and finished off in one of the best set up adventure parks in a magical location with a beer hut – the middle bits were slightly less idyllic.

Looking back from a flat road early in the piece showed just what perfect spot we stayed in overnight and all around were massive mountains and a deep valley with a hardly a discernible river from above. 

Like yesterday both sides of  roads were scarred with remnants of land slips with boulders half the size of a house in crazy positions figuring out their next position when they inevitable move again.

Road walking turned into some pleasant forest paths with the map promising a drop down onto a road. Drop was the operative word . It must have been somewhere between 10-15 metres down and with no real foot or handholds. After 15 minutes of looking for and dismissing alternatives there was only one option- throw the sticks down, along with the backpack and hope it acts as an airbag if the clay you are hanging onto gives way.

Landed inelegantly, but in one piece after dusting myself off noticed a sign from the previous nights camp – ‘ accommodation and taxi available- which suggested no need to take the earlier diversion and face this slip and slide.

Followed the road which started to give a great view of the ever widening boulder filled river. Not let my after we came across an abandoned car and that signalled the end of the road. 

We paused and read trip notes – ‘very tricky and dangerous crossings which should not be attempted in wet or windy conditions’. When we peeked at it we thought they should have added ‘at all’.

With a sheer cliff face and a 150 metre drop below there was a couple of poles arranged to get across a 5 metre gap. Jane led the way and made it safely. Height challenged me followed and somehow made it across after summoning the guts.

My relief and excitement was dampened within 20 seconds when Jane said ‘ and that’s not the hard part’. Think I might have uttered at least one expletive when looking at the next 20 or 30 metres of trail which was 8-12 inches wide on loose dirt, with same drop.

Made it across with more luck than technical execution and might have shed a tear looking back- and so I should have because somewhere in the two crossings my phone became dislodged. 

It’s a horrible feeling when you realise what is in your phone and the cover , with thought it’s now 150 metres down the cliff. You also kick yourself for not thinking to put it in your pack.

God bless Jane  she shimmied her way back to find it teetering on a ledge near the log. Doing one crossing was enough for me – she did 3. How people with huge packs do it is beyond comprehension coming from a 70 year old- perhaps it’s just youth, agility and fearlessness.

After some reflective moments we headed along a track before it came to the river and first of three what you might call challenging or exciting crossing.

First up it was some climbing through and then up and over huge boulders and sliding onto the next one- ticked that off with a few scratches. 

Bit more wending the way across more boulders in semi upright positions and it was a roughly made log bridge, which thankfully had a rock to steady you.

Next was a bit more challenging descent down  a log ladder for about 10 metres. It wasn’t your store bought ladder with the rungs irregular in step size. It was basically laying pretty flat and looking between your legs for the next step, all under guidance of GI Jane and our old mate the hare who had caught us up.

Another deep breath and time for regaining a regular heart beat, unclenching the scphincter and some happy snaps of we three.

Standing in the boulder filled river you ponder on how people manage when there is a decent flow of water.

Up onto the bank and ran into another Russian who raised spirits with news their was a cafe a kilometre along the track. Were not sure if it was a joke or reality.

Another bit of rocky track hopping for 30 odd minutes and there it was a cafe. We found out a few things.

• the abandoned car was cafe owners 
• He brings in all provisions from where we just walked
• He has the right to charge 10 times the local price for a can of Coke 
• we still had 4 kilometres up and 4 kilometres down before track ended

The track weaved it’s way up to 800 odd metres and there were plenty of breaks, including lunch,before any hint of a downslope. Plenty of wild roses along the track waiting to inflict another scratch and tough underfoot conditions tested the resolve.

About 100 square metres of flat stuff up the top provided a nice rough camping spot and a chance to regain composure for way down.

Just as we set off downhill a crew of 10 hikers – yes you guessed it they were Russian- huffed their way to the top. Looking at their faces several were already spent and dejected and they still had the trials and tribulations we had experienced. Can assure the conversation between Boris and Natasha who were pushing 60 would have been intriguing to interpret.

The two hour descent was rocky, but when you did get s chance to stop and take in the scenery it was breathtaking, with the canyon and high surrounding mountains.

At about 300 as we were getting lower it was getting quite dark and you wondered where the people we were just passing were spending the evening.

Came to an uncommon flat spot with the best view and three,dressed for partying not walking, Russians drinking a bottle of wine. We shared a bit of a chat and some photo opportunities before leaving and wondering what the last kilometre downhill for them might be like.

Thirty minutes later we heard more voices and a whirring noise and took the last steps off the hill onto a flat surface. 

We were in a wonderful setting on the river and whirring was two zip lines. There was also a rope bridge, we did not have to cross- much to my delight. Lots if people wandering around and coming up to a water crossing. 

At six inches deep I was not changing into reef shoes , so splashed the boots whilst Jane tried unduccessfully to use the Ill spacd stepping stones.

The other side was a bustling area full of people eating and drinking and heading off to engage in the various activities. We grabbed a beer and Gozleme and sat in one of the booths along the side of the river, watching people fly by on the zip line.

It was not the end for us as we had a 2km plod to our fabulous accommodation. It was best on tour and resembled an Aussie motel. Only slight problem was our luggage had not moved.

As we lingered over a couple of beers the various owners worked out the problem and it was about an hour and a half later when it arrived.

The best on tour theme continued with a great soup, salmon and baclava dinner, without the need for another drink as an extremely tough day finished on a really great note.

No walk tomorrow, we decided that another 1500 metre up over the mountain pass was for younger legs,. Instead we are heading for the beach and getting picked up later in the afternoon to head back into the mountains to ready ourselves for another mountain stretch on Monday.

What a great start to the first part of the walk when the steepest hill in the first 2 hours was coming up the driveway of the B and B

The walk was basically flat to slightly uphill on forest paths and rural roads, with an estimated timeframe of 3 hours.

We were always looking up at the huge mountains that were our costant left hand side buddies. Many were pock marked where huge faces had peeled off and created landslides that had badly damaged the road  in several spots only allowing foot or bike traffic. Several tree falls also blocked the way.

Coming to the end we came across 4 jeeps  full of hikers , obviously getting a head start for the day.  Just as we entered town there were 20-30 more at a huge hostel and who knows how many more at the old castle now converted into a camping ground.

We made incredible time reaching  our first stop off  point iin 2 hours- pretty slick for two old warriors.

Whilst resting and stocking up we were inundated with motor bikes of all shapes and sizes which we attributed to boys having a ride. Wrong – they were arriving for some racing on the hills and bends of the highway and we saw and or heard them for most of the next 3 hours.

Our fantastic race pace soon suffered a hit as we went up  about 600 metres on a very rocky track, with oower poles our only friends. That was other than our first wild boar, which thankfully lay dead and rotting on the side of the track. Not sure what bought about it’s demise.

Top of the hill allowed us to play chicken with a few of the riders before finding our first big flat spot of land under crops with no hothouses.

Flat ground did not last long and it was more ankle twisting stuff till we finally found a road, which although longer allowed safe and faster passage.

Another huge mosque for a town of about 10 houses and the best preserved road leading to it from all directions.

Reached what we thought was town only to be told our accommodation was down there.

A pretty apt description as we clambered over a stile with wonky holding on supports to start a down hill descent through rocks, creeks and muddy patches which was downright dangerous. In some spots a bum slide was the only option. 

Made it down to another road,with a couple of minor injuries, wichhad a sign Doga Camping 2kms. Was pretty annoying when we were already a kilometre into tomorrow’s trail and had been going neigh on 4 hours for second half of walk.

Next conundrum was whether to stay on track or follow the road. Unanswered  calls to owner and tour operator did not help,  so we took the road.

Then there it was the Rural Hilton, even had our baggage in the back of a tractor, along with smiling owner. Our 4×3 wooden bungalow wascosy to say the least and like a Chinese laundry trying to dry wet clothes 

We were soon joined by lots of weary travellers – mainly Russians, including a 50 something walking in socks and sandals for some reason. Reckon his Day 2 will be a challenge.

Some opted for the bungalows and others camped- it  would be a cold night in a tent , so small mercy in having our bungalow

Thunder and lightning, fortunately were not accompanied by rain as we have several tricky river crossings tomorrow, along with ladder climbs and rope bridges – sound like a SAS celebrity show. On top of that we are scheduled to stay in a place in the National Park Canyon not quite the equal of today.

700pm dinner was brought forward to 630 to cater for several sittings. Boy what a and soirée, alphabet soup, rice, salad fot for a Biafran refugee and 4 meatballs the size of a 50 cent piece – not what we needed after a cracker and tea lunch. Thankfully there was seconds on rice and Turkish tea.

Looimg forward to tomorrow’s now shortened day in what appears ideal temps.

Jane slept well after her pole dancing and I am getting used to the Nursing Home bed time of 830. With no television or newspapers and a general desire to disconnect from the world , it’s blogging and sleeping.

Today we had the most difficult walk to date. Even without spending a further 4 hours to go to and return from the absolute summit of the mountain, it’s still 1500 metres up and down and 7.5 hours of hiking.

Had thought about abandoning walk and going with luggage to take  a cable car ride, but instead put a tablespoon of cement in the tea to harden up and take on the mountain.

All the talk about cable car ended in a miscommunication and host arranged a driver. Rather than disappoint them we suggested a 3 km lift up the road. Suddenly she was too busy and the alternate driver took off without us. We found him at a watering hole we fell into after some of the toughest walking either of us had ever done. An hour and a half for 3 Kms was hardly greyhound like. The 20 or so Russians we passed going down hill had hardly raised a  sweat

Interesting water stop, when I went to fill  my water bottle out of a trough I managed to notice it had fish in it. Though it had not killed them I searched and found a more drinkable option.

Because this guy at the water stop had built over the track, we needed to scurry over a less than robust thing posing as a ladder to get back on the route. 

Route was hardly appropriate for a walk which went through, landslips, forests, creek beds and muddy slippery spots – predominantly uphill and in some spots around 30 degrees.

It was another episode of not being able to take in scenery, although the presence of the giant hill on our right was ever present. When we did stop it was fabulous, with views back to the coast and across the mountain range.

Passed a couple of Aussies and swapped notes and his comment about ‘your trip from here is still very interesting’ rang in my ears going up and down. 

Arrived at the top in 4 and a quarter hours and travelled less than 6 Kms. Must say it was spectacular and the view and thought of some downhill lifted the spirits.

Second part  of downward journey was on a road and finished in a hut erected by a local farmer as a camping spot or just somewhere to rest the weary bones.

After that lunch stop we looked forward to the downward journey of 6 Kms more. It was not much better than the up side, with similar terrain, but much wetter and slipperieru. Track marking were poor and we needed to be looking for pole marks made by other walkers to ensure we were on track.

The valleys and canyons we could see were magnificent with huge land slips and fabulous groves of Cyprus trees, some hanging precariously close to crumbling off a cliff face. we traversed at one stage.

A couple of hours later we hit a dirt rod which took us into our home base. Passed an aging Russian couple at about 400pm, hoping to make a campsite at the top of the hill. With fading light and a fog rolling in as well they were very ambitious plans.

Finished our day in just over 7.5 hours and celebrated with a beer and a great chat to our host who spoke perfect English.

Lovely accommodation and a shower to die for. The thought of 5 meatball meals n 7 days was in the back of our minds, but he surprised us with hearty soup and stuffed  eggplant , both welcome on a chilly evening in the mountains   Ironically at the same altitude we left this morning.

Tomorrow looks the same in walking time, but with half the elevation and a town in the middle, not the absolute isolation halfway bought today.

It was food and coffee for us at breakfast, but our Russian guests added a shot of Vodka. The Russian presence carried on for the entire day with groups of 6-10 passing us going in the opposite direction 

With all these fit young men here you wonder who is making up their military,

Needed an early star for a walk which essentially went from sea level to 1100 meters over an expected 7 hours of walking.

Early part saw the fit and healthy trend with lots of walkers and joggers. The other trend was non observance of the road rules. Firstly a Mum driving with a baby no older than 9 months tucked between her legs and then a granny with a jozzed up mobility scooter with three kids in a trailer arrangement – obviously the school bus.

Weather was very pleasant and we soon reached the national park where there are natural gas fires burning out of the rocks and have done so for 2000 years. 

Too early for ticket man, but soon punished with a kilometer uphill walk on a Roman road to the top. Interesting 100 meter distance markers – they were plastic garbages.

There were six or seven obvious chimneys and the heat was pretty intense.

That kilometer up started the trend for the day with our 3 hour walk leading up to lunch being 95% uphill on very challenging ground. Had a hare and tortoise chase with one young guy who we saw right throughout the day.

It was hot and humid and within 2 hours we were sweaty messes.

The only down part was pretty rugged, with lots of rockfalls and fallen trees  to negotiate, plus a creek crossing on slippery rocks- we both stayed dry.

Found a bit of relief with some dirt road walking into our half way point where we stopped for lunch at a trout hatchery  and naturally had a lamb shush. Main reason was the dead and ailing trout in the pool below our table not being very appealing.

Got ripped off for the first time with operator charging us different prices to what was on the menu and his inability, real or feigned, to speak English made arguing difficult.

Second part of trip was 9 kilometers and an expected completion time of 4.5 hours.

A couple of trail misadventures saw us lose some time early , but we picked it up on some good gravel local roads. Finally found a farmer picking the pomegranate crop. A couple of teams of four were busy transferring boxes from tractors onto transport trucks.

After a solid hour of road walking and scrambling we were both taking less photos, talking less and constantly checking the bearings.

The last hours were a blur as we weaved our way up the side of the mountain often trying to find a foothold. At one stage I think we both would have been happy to be consumed by a wolf. 

A bit of a second wind got us going and we finally broke out onto a main road, which like all trails today wound steeply into town. Our hotel, which also served as the grocery store, had definitely seen better days, but It had a dribble of hot water, clean sheets and prospects of a hearty dinner.

Jane’s bed had an interesting arrangement which was either holding up the ceiling or letting her practice her pole dancing. Her impromptu display after dinner suggests her best pole dancing days are behind her.

We are heading towards the summit at 7700 feet tomorrow, so it will be upwards and onwards again. With quite heavy rain starting just after we arrived it will add an element of challenge we could likely do withou should it continue.

No ride on the cable car for me as the road does not go to the top of the mountain to termination station. You can only gain access at bottom unless you add 4 hours hiking.

I was feeling sorry for our tortoise and hare mate camping out, but the vet yea he announced himself and said he was camping here under cover.

Dinner was a first, no animals hovering around our feet. 

Early to bed and most parts of body aching, already had a couple of cramps in the thigh and suspect a few more tonight. 

It seems the CTP goes a bit later up here in the mountains and it’s right outside our window. Jane and I have started putting our own interpretation to the words. 

Today was a road option rather than the steep and dangerous cliffs, even though it meant an extra couple of kilometres to track end. Then to our chagrin the accommodation was about 1.5km out of town.

Bade farewell to our new Yukon buddies , the cats, dogs, chocks  and forlorn boat captains, with no business,  to tread a busy rural road for about 5 Kms.

Rural is rural and wives and grandma’s still don’t merit a ride up front in truck or tractor, they are dispatched to the tray or the trailer while the male sits up front.

It is a real subsistence environment with many of the houses having little fruit displays they either man or leave an honesty box at.

Our road route was overlooked by the main track high in the rugged mountains and any glance upward cemented the view we made the right decision.

Walking was hot in 27 degree temperatures, with the occasional gust of wind. Air quality was terrible and haze like conditions  often spoilt picture quality or the view.

Even out here building new houses was a priority with order of importance the view, fence, gate, retaining wall- size of house- seemed irrelevant. One development was 5 or 6 tiers up the hillside.

Aside from farming there was a bit of forestry, with something like 7 million trees planted after the area near Olympos was  devestates by bushfires in 2016. There was a great memorial about  the fires with picnic tables, ironically we had sat on a pile of dirt 300 metres beforehand for a break after about 3 hours of walking.

Olympos village was another example of the enormous number of pensions (B and B’s) built in this part of the world. Many are cute bungalow types often with small cafes and bars on the roadside.

We stopped at one outside a camping ground with a gelato sign outside and tried to get a tasty treat. The guy had no idea of the flavours and when he did open the lid they were frozen solid. On reflection we think he may have been one of the campers trying to make a lira.

Down the road was a museum of American collectibles including a gas station. Snapped my first 2 pictures of the place, to be reminded by owner to read the sign ‘no photography’. Hard to think it was very enforceable and the place wasn’t open anyway.

The closer we got to Olympos  ruins the more dense the accommodation and cafes became. Many sat on the edge of a dry river, directly below the towering cliffs. One even had treehouse accommodation.

End of season is pretty obvious with 90% closed and most traffic heading to the ruins. The mountains directly above provided great opportunities for a couple of rock climbers.

The ruins dated back to 300BC and were in pretty good condition. It was an interesting hour climbing through them. Olympos was certainly a major riverside town in its day with access to the sea as well. 

At the end of the ruins it was another world as you popped out onto an amazing beach with torquoise water and a dumping shore break.

The pebbly beach was actually packed with a whole lot of body beautiful’s and it was a much younger demographic than other places. Interestingly water on the edge was full of rubbish so not many swimmers.

Trod the river bed into Corali and there was a local market . In Cirali there was not a bit of spare room on each side of the road. It was a true ‘build and they will come’with accommodation and food. The  place was buzzing with people in cars and on bicycles and a lot of restaurants had good custom.

We enjoyed lunch and then played find the accommodation. You would think the Plaj or Beach Hotel would be right there within touching distance of the water. After at least 5 different sets of directions we walked for 1.5 kilometres without a sign. We even thought about asking police but they and ambulance crew were tied up with a drama on the beach. One last attempt and believe it or not we were 50 metres from home. Not going to be a good starting point for tomorrow with track well to the North.

Found host and it was a 200 metre walk to a very impressive ground floor unit. The whole complex was well populated with about 30 turning up for dinner including another guided group of 7 Russians walking trail in the opposite direction.

Another great shower, but a defective hair dryer which was a slight problem for Jane which turned a little worse when I returned from shopping excursion and mentioned mine host was fanning the coals of his BBQ with one which worked perfectly.

A visit to local shop confirmed the demographic, with me being only one over 30 on both outward and return trip, passing many running or cycling- I was the one hobbling,.

We topped off our vegetarian dinner guest list with one cat and beli be it ot not a hedgehog- the wolf or wild boar must still be coming. Cow and pig are long .odds to turn up.

Our hopes of a cable car ride the day after next were dashed in a discussion with a local guide who politely said that our knees would not make the walk back down.

Tomorrow has a couple of sizable, but manageable, uphills and there is no ‘take the road’ bailout.