Monday 28th October 2024

In Matera

For the second morning in a row it was a pea soup start with the 700 am sun a dim beacon in the sky.

Had been an interrupted sleep as Jane had woken during the night and thought she had a severe eye problem when she tried to check the time on her phone and it was a haze. After a mild panic she realised sun glasses do mute the light.

Getting used to these terrace breakfasts, albeit in the full sight of the builders doing a major renovation next door where three houses are being converted to a hotel.

No coffee as we were off on our walk down and across the valley. After 300 metres down a steep and slippery path with a big drop off, my courage failed me and we called the walk off. It wasn’t worth the risk so close to going home.

Back up the track and down the Passion   of Christ  stairway to the main square below the Rock Church. Met a couple of Aussies from Port Hesfland who were holidaying but also sussing out towns in Italy where the Government is encouraging people to take up residence and enjoy 7% tax rates on all income. 

Whilst in one square we were gobsmacked to run into two of our walking companions from Salento who had changed plans and decided a visit to Matera was a must – can’t help but second that opinion. It was a bit reminiscent of last years stay in Rocamadour.

We met them later in the morning for a coffee in a now very busy main square before they headed off to catch a train and we explored the Barisano area. 

Managed to find a restaurant for dinner and then enjoy one of the best experiences in Matera –  Cave Casa. It was an old underground quarry that had now been converted into a theatre. There was a fabulous video on its construction and the celebration of St Mary’s Day on July 2nd each year.

She is revered in the town and one of the major activities is a procession through town where a huge float carrying a paper mache religious scene is towed through the streets. It’s a magnificent piece of workmanship which experiences an unusual fate. At the end of the route hundreds of people clamber onto the float and tear it apart because a piece guarantees a year good luck , as  the story goes.  It’s a bit reminiscent of the annual event in Gubbio. Both are worth a Google.

The cave also had some interesting art.

It was back onto the streets to find a quaint lunch spot where best lunch on tour was taken. Naturally a dairy finish was necessary and this time it was flavoured yoghurt .

Found another area of town to explore where the flash 5 star hotels are housed. Most have little courtesy vans that move customers luggage around to avoid the cobblestone tango.

Interestingly many don’t have views like ours, but the price we paid was the relentless up and down on the stairs – to be honest it was worthwhile given our facilities.

Had a little siesta, wrote some blogs and caught up with news. 

The evening dinner was quite a walk. On the way we struck about 30 Japanese struggling to their 5 star hotel with luggage in tow – they must have missed the memo.

There was the great flow of locals enjoying the evening stroll and large groups of old men standing below their ‘ tree of knowledge’ solving the problems of the world. 

We ventured up into the new town with its modern high rise buildings and high end shops. Despite its history of poverty things seem to have changed.

Headed down to our cave restaurant, where US tourists seemed to dominate. Like other international tourists who don’t do the research on places they visit comments like ‘ why is the menu in Italian’ and ‘why is there so much pasta on the menu’ make you giggle.

Our waiter was the master of upselling and what we thought was an explanation of what was available ended up with three starters. It was a struggle to get through the main. With a 10 minute gap between mine and Jane’s arriving we were almost hoping they had forgotten . They hadn’t it was just assigned to the wrong table.

No room for dolci , the only space left was in the wallet.

Walked home in much quieter, but mistier , surroundings other than a bar where kids we passed on the way over who were celebrating graduation with a street opera were still at it singing and knocking back the cocktails.

Took our last look from the Doumo square before heading down the stairs, passing a sculpture of a cooper making wine barrels -(which was appropriate given amount of wine we had consumed) , for our last sleep in Matera and  penultimate sleep in Italy.