Thursday 24th October 2024

Marina Serra to Gagliano 

Last day of the walk and about 14 Kms to conquer with a lot of coastal walking on what was described as ‘sometimes difficult to follow because of heavy overgrowth’. There was also a need to finish by about 100pm to allow collection of luggage from a cafe and get to station by 200pm.

We had dined with another group of walkers last night and they beat us to the punch for a very typical Italian breakfast, with slim pickings left. 

We were in a Refuggio so 5 star digs and food was not expected. We got what we expected clean and comfortable room and food cooked as if you were part of the family, plus wonderful hospitality.

Altered the route a bit to avoid an early difficult stair start, but we had our share of hills on the road before heading into the olive groves.

Lots of smoke as farmers pulled out old trees and burnt them off, which probably explained yesterdays smoke. Also lots of cranky dogs who thankfully remained behind the fences whilst they earned their keep guarding farms.

Route took a very circuitous way around the fields and we were tempted to climb a few fences and use a farm road. Ultimately we stuck to the map and continued along, saying a few hellos to farmers picking the last of the crop.

Passed through a small town where a few Eels supporters obviously lived and there was not a soul around.

Headed back down to just above the coast  for the rest of the walk. It was for most part along very narrow pathways close to drystone walls and often beneath heavy foliage 

One section aptly named Ambush Pass had us ducking and weaving and climbing  over many piles of rocks where walls had collapsed. 

Navigational errors were aplenty with the lack of signs, overgrowth and in one instance my inability as head scout to take orders from Vasco with the map. It had us climbing through thick undergrowth and forging our own way forward before finally coming upon  a field- albeit a fenced one with no gate.

Found the lowest part of the wall and executed a very inelegant crossing, much like a tiring Grand National jumper. To add insult to injury the track was only about 30 metres away  through a patch of blackberries.

Slightly scratched we were finally back on track on a gravel road with a view to a very inviting blue sea. 

Almost on time we had our daily buzzing from the Air Force jet which was the only noise in an otherwise serene setting.

Just when the spirits were high it was back on the rocky trail for the final push towards the last seaside point of the walk. Two things to focus on in the notes were a red gate to turn up onto the tarmac  and a bar near the grotto that was always open.

After what seemed an eternity on an unusually hot day we found the gate and slogged our way to heaven- the always open bar. The area around the bar was full of cyclists all getting ready to head down the stairs to the grotto for a swim.

We chose the panini and beer option as fuel to get us up 400 feet out of the grotto, without a swim, due to time pressure.

We snapped a few end of coast pictures before heading down into the grotto and enjoying a look at a great swimming opportunity. Then we felt like people from the Land of Lilliput as we took giant strides to make our way up the wide stairs to the top. It was then all uphill for last kilometer into town. We were cheered on by Snow White and Co as we trod the last 500 metres to town.

It was another kilometre through town, which was basically closed for siesta, to reach the cafe. I thought it was a gee up when they said turn right at the traffic lights because we had not seen one in 6 days. I would have believed a 20 metre high statue .

Found the cafe at 120pm, but unfortunately not the baggage. Due to a misunderstanding ours and that of two others in our group had been swapped and placed in a car heading to a different location.  

Thankfully the owner was able to retrieve them and we were at  the station, a mere 800 metre walk away, in time for our 2 hour trip to Lecce. 

Thanks to the unreliability of Trenitalia we stopped one station short of home and waited just on an hour while a broken down train was moved.

Finally off the train and a 200 metre walk had us at the aptly named Grand Hotel. Pretty lavish inside and out and after 9 hours we didn’t care if the shower was a garden hose, as long as it was hot. As I said to Jane on the way to the train’ even I wouldn’t like to sit  next to me on the train smelling like this”.

Cleaned up we headed for a late walk around town to be accosted by beggars and Africans selling trinkets. We found the recommended restaurant next to the Duomo and enjoyed dinner firstly with an Aussie couple and then a couple of Central Americans.

Picked  our way home through streets full of gorgeous Baroque buildings before collapsing into bed to officially finish the walk.