Tuesday 22nd  October 2024

Santa Centarea Terme to Marritima

Decided on an early start to try and beat the heat, so getting to the breakfast room for an 800am dig-in was imperative.

No typical Italian breakfast here it was the full gamut and I am sure some will have smuggled some out for a lunch time smorgasbord today.

Made our way back up the steep slope we traversed yesterday and I went to check the time- oops the dreaded thought ‘did I leave the watch on the bed?’

I decided to trust the honesty of staff or find it when I rooted through my bag at days end.

It was a meandering walk through the fields of olives, again on paths flattened by the cyclists. There were plenty of derelict buildings and vacant stony fields signalling the demise of some farms. There seemed to be endless Vendesi ( for sale) signs along the way.

Some farmers obviously diversified during the tough times and planted pine, for their nuts not timber. One planting had high fences which went for 850 metres down one side. It also had the obligatory fancy gate.

Much to our surprise we came across a large footy stadium, not more than 5kms from the deserted one. It was the new home ground for the Serie D local team. 

We eventually got back onto the coast and entered the outskirts of Castro. It was the town where the bike race concluded. There was obviously money in this town with huge mansions and strings of new apartment buildings, many with panoramic ocean views. That said there were still very few people around.

Passed a recommended lunch stop restaurant which opened 80 years ago – unfortunately it was closed, but outside was a cute little Bambino car with a luggage rack to boot. 

There was also a cute little kid Jane gave a kangaroo pin to, along with a pretty poor impression of one. The bemused kid wandered off into the supermarket quizzing her Mum. Not sure she even had the answer to what a hopping adult was.

Stopped for coffee in the old town with a beautiful view before setting off down some rickety stairs, behind what was declared to be Minerva’s  chapel, to the harbour where the cycle race finished. It was pretty quiet other than a lone fishing boat coming in with its catch. 

The town was a bit more lively, but again more closed shops than open ones. It was a pretty harbour with crystal clear water.

Whilst there we were buzzed by a Police helicopter and then a low flying Air Force jet fighter like one we had seen yesterday.

Then after leaving the harbour and heading into the suburbs there was a miracle, Jane decided against buying a handmade Xmas decoration from a lady who invited us into her backyard.

After more road walking we reached what was one of the highlights of the day – Aquaviva- which unlike yesterdays hot thermal springs was a seaside beach where sea water was infused with freezing spring water. Not sure of the curative powers but as my Dad would’ve said- cold enough to tighten your nuts- and he was right.

Aside from being cold it was an awkward entry into the water with swirling water disguising the rocks below. I was not the  only one toppling over in knee deep water.

Jane needed a bit of cajoling to get in, but did so and was able to tick off another activity on her daily to do list.

The beach was pretty busy and made even busier when a bike group of 20 or so arrived. Not many went for a swim but they commandeered all of the chairs at the cafe and ate their own food without spending a cent.

Changerooms, if you could call them that, were up the hill. Outside the facility Jane instead of doing a kangaroo impression, did one of a felled tree, when she missed a step and came a cropper. Despite the heavy fall it was almost harmless other than skin off the knees and embarsssment.

Thankfully we were only two or three kilometres down the hill from town and were able to have a soft run home.

Home was Marittima which has to be one of the weirdest towns we have come across. It’s huge, lots of narrow streets with old houses, hardly a shop to be seen, full of cats and a castle.

Guess accommodation was scant for the tour operator and twas the castle where we stayed. The castle itself had seen better days and was in need of a revamp and probably a more committed and interested operator. Rooms were at least clean and quite large but everywhere else indicated a distinct disinterest. Positive news was my watch was in my suitcase.

We were only staying there so looked for a restaurant for dinner, bar for a drink and ATM. It was slim pickings all round one restaurant that was closed from 15/9 /24, going by the sign and one cafe and one bar. We did find an ATM.

We went back to the bar and it was an hours entertainment you could not buy, as all of the over 65 men converged to play cards. Play might be an overstatement as 4 played and 9 hovered around watching providing plenty of sideline advice. We got the evil eye taking up a table with 4 chairs and despite offering two up there was no takers- just lingering glances.  Interestingly Jane was the only female. 

The barman was full of advice and actually told us that the closed restaurant was the best in town and opened at 730. We mentioned the sign and he dismissed us and said – just go it will be ok.

Go we did, after sprucing up, and as we passed the bar all of the men were heading off home – obviously Mumma had given them strict instructions. The change of guard changed the demographic with younger people, including women filling the seats.

The ‘now open’ restaurant was well patronised and served good wholesome food at a reasonable price. 

We wandered home to bed in our room which could best be described as close to transport.