Busted On The Coast


Thursday 10th October 2024

Rijeka to Split via Bus

Well the bus delay messages were only outdisappointed by the cold shower we had to take before  lugging the bags downhill to the bus station at 715, just in case they picked up time.

The only one not suffering my disappointment was the dead black cat placed neatly on the steps of the business right next door. I must say it did invoke the thought of whether it may be an omen.

Arrived and with no office per se at the station it was difficult to get any information, even from other drivers of FlixBus vehicles waiting there. Best I got was’ it’s late, it could make up time, it will come- just wait and look at bus number.”

Right it was scheduled for 8 then 9, then 10 and then 1008 so at 748 we have a lot of waiting to do.  The opposition had a 9 bus going but it was full, so wait it was.  

Armed with  breakfast consisting of a pastry thing, coffee and a keen sense of alertness we ventured into the Waiting Room – 8 plastic chairs between the luggage room and the toilet.

After 30 minutes we paid the holding fee for the bag, and did a lap of the area within sight of the station. Managed another view of boats and trod the stairs to the Cathedral. A look was all you could get because blinding lights prevented any photos of what was a huge, but strangely unpretentious, building with only one parishioner and us.

A green bus had us scampering down the stairs, but was not ours- it was off to Perugia. Had to wrestle Jane to the ground so she didn’t jump on and go to her favourite place in Italy.

So at 9 we grab a coffee and sit next to three other travellers who just happened to be Aussie. They had missed yesterday’s bus because a red not the usual green FlixBus had arrived and they let it go, so they had a double whammy. As chance may have it they were on a Face Time call to relatives , in where but Concord 500 metres from our place.

Beep- that’s a message that signalled another 30 minute delay . I could not stomach another coffe else it would have me pulling out the catheter with a 7 hour bus trip to come.

Hallelujah 1034 the double decker bus from Frankfurt arrived, disembarked the weary and onboarded the frustrated.

That started an absolute scenic feast as we travelled both inland and then back to the coast along some fantastic motorways.

I hadn’t appreciated how mountainous it was, with huge forested mountains , inland lakes, a minimum of flat and arable land and lots of very small townships. 

Soon lost count of the number of tolls we paid and the tunnels we burrowed through as we soon knocked off the 4 hours to Zadar where our Aussie mates alighted.

A 10 minute break to spend 50 cents and grab a sandwich and we were off again headed for Sibenek.

A strange transformation happened after that stop as we headed onto narrow country roads through long valleys full of small farms. The hilltops were alive with windmills and the telegraph poles with national flags. The area was known for the peasant rebellion in 1950 where the farmers took up arms against the Government. It was a one sided battle with many losing their lives. It ended up being the only rebellion during the Cold War in Europe.

The mountains were always around and we soon popped back on top and burst through a gap to get a magnificent view of the coast with islands, yachts and a plane coming into land at the same height as us.

The view was like the postcards and we took it in as we wound our way down wiggling roads with Split in the distance. From a distance it was much bigger than expected with block after block of high rise around the foreshore.

It was big town traffic and a slow last 10 Kms before we were offloaded at the dockside with the ferries, yachts and cruise liners, after shorter than expected journeys of 6.5 hours. Think we may have forfeited another stop and shortened one, so that might have helped reduce the time. 

The town was abuzz with people, all dressed up for summer, even though it was only 21. Our apartment was in the old town and only 10 minutes from the harbour.

Dumped of the clothes, did a bit of washing and then headed into town for dinner. The restaurants were packed and not sure if it was the influx of cruise boats or just what to expect in this noted tourist town. Couldn’t find a restaurant  in the large square but found one a in a back lane which served some reasonable food at ridiculous prices. 

Another wander around town before heading home. Did a check of emails and it was pretty ironic that the first email I opened before going to bed was from the bus company. 

Hit the pillow after a long and adventurous day. Tomorrow it’s a city food tour and who knows what. 


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