Thursday 3rd October 2024

Novigrad to Groznjan to Motovun

The local forecasters got it right with rain all night and the whole day to have constant falls up to 45mm.

When we had breakfast and then when collected to be taken to our high hill start the quizzical look on peoples faces said it all – ‘are you sure you don’t want a taxi all the way through’.

A 30 minute trip, during which the driver gave us a quick history lesson , gave us the opportunity to reconsider. We decided to walk the 18 Kms. Even though 2 other walkers quickly jumped into a cab and bolted when we got to our starting point.

The town of Groznjan has a deep history associated with artists and of course the truffle. Other than the supermarket it was truffle shops and galleries. It was also a town serviced by the now defunct Parenzana railway and had 3 miniature trains taking pride of place in the square. The Parenzana railway was destroyed by Mussolini so he had steel for weapons manufacture. We actually walked on parts of it today and scheduled to do similarly tomorrow.

Jane plonked herself in the church door way, to check directions, though I suspect she was looking for divine intervention. The town had a great view down into the valleys   if only you could see through the rain and clouds.

A lap of town was followed by a long haul up even higher and the first of many old houses being renovated by returning expats and foreigners. It was sad to see equally as many derelict, as families can’t afford to renovate.

Real estate isn’t cheap – a penthouse in Novigrad with no views was circa A$900k.

It was a view through drips off a soaked rain hat all day that that we enjoyed as we visited every town named after a Saint who I didn’t cover in my Bible studies classes. They were all quaint with only a few houses and the obligatory church.

Tracks ranged from tarmac roads to forest trails and muddy gravel roads. Other than the short cut that Jane spied, which was basically a creek bed that took and hour and three quarters to descend. 

We did stop for lunch in the pretty town of  Portole where we enjoyed a coffee and then a picnic in a cupola with magnificent views back to where we had started . It’s amazing that it’s 10 Kms from start to finish today by car- our trip is 18.

Lots more walking, including the aforementioned short cut, with not a lot of dialogue. Mused over what different structures were and where possible looked back to reflect where we had been. We also realised it was hunting season hence dogs barking and roosts spruced up.

We kicked a couple of mushrooms along the way which appeared in the middle of the track.

Finally reached the penultimate town of today Livade, which is famous for a resident finding the biggest ever truffle. Not surprisingly there was an international gourmet festival celebrating the truffle.

High in the hills was the castle town of Motovun whose claim to fame is it being the hometown of the Andretti racing car family. If he had a rallying background you could understand as the road wound its way up the hill and then into the castle area with its narrow cobblestone roads only wide enough for one car. The gates into the castle were barely wide enough for a car and when it’s full of Japanese tourists navigation is even more difficult. Perhaps it’s appropriate to mention that we did get a ride from the bottom of the hill- only dry part of walk all day.

Montobun does also hold mantle of best preserved medieval town in Croatia.

Found a great artistic impression of the hilltop city in our hotel.

The Kastel hotel is also a Wellness centre and hopefully after our walk tomorrow we will get a chance to use the facilities.

Room looked like a Chinese laundry after we hung everything out to dry and we were glad for the hot shower.

Feeling the effect of the lurgi Jane had passed on meant a little kip before a nice dinner.