Wednesday 2nd October 2024

Around Novigrad

Novigrad is far from a metropolis and as the hotel owner said 20 minutes and you will see the highlights. It’s not a worry as we were using it as a seaside relax before the next walk.

This is a tourist town where people come to relax in and on the water. Water was the theme for the day, with rain starting early, along with a fairly strong wind. 

With our gortex jackets on we headed off to the seafront. What a difference from yesterday’s millpond conditions, today waves were splashing up and over the waterside path. The change and shower stations were both getting inundated. Waves were even spraying up into some of the seaside restaurant outside terraces. At one spot water was rushing up stairways to the street.

The railings down into the water were similarly going under water. 

On the water things were equally different with yachts heading into sheltered coves and also seeking protection behind the breakwater. One yacht with 5 onboard tried to head out to see but had some sort of mishap and needed towing into the inner harbour.

Another brave yacht headed out to sea under motor and was last seen bobbing around like a cork in 1 to 2 metre swell.

We left the seaside and visited the local chapel and the bell tower. Right next door was a distillery famous for its brandy. It had a shop selling anything and everything alcoholic or related to truffles,the latter is a major industry in this area. Nothing like a brandy tasting at 10am to salve a sore throat.

They even had a crate of old fashioned soda symphons out the front

It’s amazing how the new and the old sit together , with brand new cars parked under ancient sundials. Decrepit old houses with satellite dishes, all mixed in with some houses renovated or waiting to be renovated. There was even a Lavender inspired hose.

The streets around this area were adorned with umbrellas which was ironic given the weather. With none ourselves and rain increasing we headed for a local cafe for a lingering coffee.

Even the Town Hall got into the decoration theme.

Warmed up we did a bit of shopping and looking for prospective dining spots.

Another walk around the port showed that it is a harbour of three groups, the fishermen, the recreational yachties/boaters and the serious big boys toys.

Whilst the trawling fleet looks aged some boats had great aids to assist with sorting the catch, including conveyor belts with species sorting shoots. 

With seasons end coming for tourism, many business have closed down and others are operating at limited capacity. It didn’t stop us finding a nice harbour side cafe for lunch. Given 40% of residents are Italian in this region we decided a Bruschetta and frappe would suffice. 

Had an interesting lunch mate in the form of a woman in her 80’s who walked in took a table and dined on a bowl of nuts and a cigarette- perhaps it is an alternative Mediterranean Diet. 

Having done the city tour we headed home to do some more planning for the next 6 days, where walking might be a little challenging with weather and what had been described as ‘very muddy tracks and hills that may need to be crossed in a switchback method’.

At around 530 the light rain turned into torrential rain with lightning and thunder. Rethinking best laid plans already.

Managed to find a break in the weather and head for seaside restaurant. Didn’t need to look for the way the noise of crashing waves was guide enough,

Found Leonardo’s and shared a meat platter for two and a local bottle of wine. Had a bit of banter with four guys who were on a Casino visit. Thought they were all German and committed the ultimate sin when one popped over for a chat and I said ‘are you all German ‘. I was quickly put in my place when he explained he was Austrian. At that stage I guessed it was the wrong time to mention the war.

Finished dinner with a complimentary Schapps or espresso – no guessing who opted for the former.

Lingered until the weather improved and puddle hopped our way home for another pre 900pm lights out.