Saturday 28th September 2024

Around Lake Bohinjska

Woke early and listened to the Swan’s demise until just after half time. Couldn’t see them coming back from such an inept performance. The inevitable commentary will come from lounge warriors pushing to sack the coach and a few players.

The rain had eased overnight but the lake was still flooded, with many of the boat moorings still under water and craft unable to be accessed.

A very large crowd of visitors filled the breakfast room ranging from hikers to bikers to the bus people. The Japanese and Americans have certainly discovered Slovenia.

Headed off on a lakeside path with the lake starting to show its best as the sun poked through the clouds. The famous golden goat statue holds pride of place at the wharf.

A few of the canoes left right side up had filled with water and were submerged on the shoreline.

If we felt inclined we could have challenged the climbing wall, but unfortunately left my chalk bag back in Australia.

The lake is dotted with lots of small hotels, all looking to have plenty of vacancies at this end of the season.

Across the lake was a huge hole in the mountains spewing water into the lake and providing a great show.

Lots of walkers and joggers on our trail and after 4 or so kilometres we reached the Vogel, otherwise known as the cable car.

With 20 others we backed our way up the hill capturing a magnificent panorama of the lake and mountains. We were able to trace our steps from top to bottom  from yesterday and it cemented in our minds that we had certainly come down from the clouds.

The top of the mountain at 1535 metres opened up onto a winter wonderland with ski runs, walking paths, all sorts of alpine adventures for the thrill seekers and even a disc golf course.

A mini zoo had a collection of alpine dwellers including a lama that looked as though it had cross bred with a panda. Thankfully all of the wild animals were wooden carvings which was heartening after reading a story about a bear devouring two people and 30 dogs somewhere in Europe.

Wandered around before an equally beautiful ride down. Wasn’t the same for a height challenged young American who spent the entire trip clinging to a pole with his eyes shut and being comforted by his girlfriend.

Met a few Aussies on way down who were touring similar territory to us albeit by bus- they were equally impressed by Slovenia from the scenery to people and food/wine/beer.

Stopped for lunch at a restaurant slightly above the flood line before making enquiries if we could complete the full circuit of the lake. The words of local campsite operator made it quite clear

‘ if waterfall flow you no go’.

Pretty timely advice as we were just about to do the return walk when a strong thunderstorm hit with pretty heavy rain, flashes of lightning and thunder that echoed through the valley.

Option was bus, so we and a crew of bikers waited in the bus shelter for 40 minutes or so.

We took the bus and they took their chances. 

We wondered what happened to those people who set off into the hills at the top of the chairlift.

That rain will only serve to top up the already swollen lake and river.

Arrived back in town and did a lap of the shops searching not for food, but more Xmas decorations.

Dinner was in a local restaurant where again the local fare and beer and wine were a nice finish to another day in a spectacular setting.

Sunday 29th September

Lake Bohinjska to Lake Bled

Another cosmopolitan breakfast and then a quick lap outside to see how the water level was and capture some pictures of the most photographed church in Slovenia and the monument to the mountaineers who first conquered  Mt Triglav- the highest point in Slovenia.

The water level had dropped a bit but it was still going under the bridge at a pretty swift rate.

We had a late pick up and transfer to our starting point, tucked into a lovely valley.

It was an interesting trip as we followed the main train line that snaked its way in the hills above the town and in spots had protective structures in the event of rockfalls.

Having read the track notes, that wasn’t a particularly good sign as we need to go up 500 metres in the first 3 kilometres.

After a map misinterpretation and some help from a local we were heading up through the meadows to a main road.

Made steady progress on a snaking hill, passed by the occasional car and biker. We both let out a collective sigh when we passed house number 5 which signified the top of the climb and delivered us in a quaint little village of about 20 houses and of course a church hidden amongst a copse of trees. The local fire station had an interest logo out the front.

It was a pretty spectacular view over to the Slovenian/Austrian border with the distant alps noticeably higher. We got our first glimpses of the castle in Lake Bled before we dropped back down into the forest and had our second encounter with a deer who had been sunning himself- oblivious to the hunters roost camouflaged in the adjacent field.

Landed on level farm ground and sloshed our way along puddled paths next to flooded field. Ran into a few families hiking up into the forests and also farmer Radic towing some freshly hewn logs down from the hills.

We then came across the biggest collection of animals in a paddock we had encountered.

They were adjacent to a bridge crossing a raging river. In a quick discussion with a guy on the bridge he explained that the river had broken its banks the day before and animals had been repositioned three times to avoid the water. Whether it was hearing or a language interpretation problem he suggested water was running with 60 times the normal volume. 

Crossed the bridge and did a bit more forest hopping before entering a quaint little village where one of the houses had a stream running through its garden- wondered what it might have been like yesterday.

Stopped for a snack under some trees on welcomed seats before meandering down the hill with ever increasing glimpses of the churches and the castle in Lake Bled. The corn drying on the racks was a bit of a tease, but we stuck with biscuits, fruit and chocolate.

Missed the recommended farm styled restaurant and ended up lunching in a hotel right on the shores of the lake with an absolutely amazing view.

The boats which ferried people to the island, using manpower, were all tied up awaiting some customers.

I always thought bees made honey, not so here we had two almost drown in the honey bowl we had as a complement to our cheese plate. Acting veterinarian Jane gently manouvered them out and let them stagger around on her plate before they fluttered away.

Then it was off to find out hotel, which came with an amazing history, having been built for the communist regime of Tito and company. Then refurbished 20 years ago.

We found a huge metal gate leading up side stairway and ended up in a hotel very reminiscent of the Hydro Majestic , but on steroids.

Staff running around dressed to the nines. Lobbies and sitting areas furnished with immaculate furniture and restaurants set up for fine dining. Our room was great with a perfect view across to the island and famous church.

The hotel had its own beach and you had access to a row boat. It also had a separate cafe higher up in the 1.5 acre estate with panoramic views, including the rowing complex where many a championship has been conducted. It was the last day of the season and we were it’s last customers.

Did a tour around the gardens before returning to the restaurant for a fine dining experience which was part of the tour. We only had to buy the matched wines with each course. 

That ended another great day and tomorrow we attack the gorge and the island and its historic church. If there is any spare time and energy we might visit the castle.