Tuesday 24th September 2024

Bovec to Lake Fusine to Kranjski Gora

The pitter patter of rain on the tin roof and the booming echo’s of the thunder made for a disrupted sleep,  and with the accumulation  of the remnants of jet lag it is leaving us a bit bleary eyed.

The weather still hadn’t cleared but the forecast looked positive for a 14-15 km walk, after a 50 minute cab ride to the starting point of Lake Fusine- doesn’t sound Slavic, that is because it’s in Italy. Our final destination name looks like it was constructed from all of the least used letters in the alphabet.

From a scenery perspective it’s probably the best 50 minutes I have spent peering out a car window. Spectacular scenery was on both sides as we took a serpentine route to the top of Predl Pass.

The overnight rain had created a myriad of cascades in the mountainside and the low cloud over the top of the mountains provided an eerie look, with the craggy peaks occasionally poking their tops out.

After passing through the border crossing into Italy at the top (3000ft high) the trip down the other side was equally picturesque and exciting as we negotiated tight hairpin bends, overtook on blind corners over double lines and came perilously close to guard rails.

Sadly we can’t share the experience and will have to hold the memories in our human photo album as snapping pictures was impossible – the only thing snapping was our necks. Anyone with motion sickness would have been looking for the sick bag.

With respect to our driver I can only say he would be an ideal stunt double for Fred Johnson from The Fugitive, because at no stage on the whole journey did he have two hands on the wheel. He was either holding a sandwich, fiddling with papers or changing the radio station. 

It was an amazing difference once you hit Italy the pristine streets were grubby and quaint looking houses were replaced by large concrete unit blocks, with several backing onto industrial sites.

After just under an hour we reached Lake Fusine, which is actually two lakes Superiore and Inferiore. We were dropped off at the latter and despite the lack of sun the reflections on the lake were amazing.

We decided to do a lap of the lake . Despite all of the beauty the trail was treacherous after overnight rain with slippery roots and rocks requiring you to watch every step. 

After the lake we followed a swift flowing stream that was being fed by little rivulets about 10 metres apart which were capturing the runoff from the stony hills above.

Got to the bottom of the hill and meandered along earthen paths and then a disused train track which was converted into a bike/walk way. There were plenty of bikers, but no other walkers.

The alpine forests were a green carpet covering the whole of the mountainside.

As the mist started to settle in we reached another border checkpoint (unmanned) for bikers and walkers which led us back into Slovenia. There was a more formal car crossing with proper guards about 200 metres away.

We ended up on the right side of the border at what we thought was a supermarket. It turned out to be a Duty Free store in the middle of nowhere, right next to a petrol station . Apparently the Italians visit to fill up and buy cheap cigarettes. We bought neither and pushed along to a pretty small town called Racete.

Popped into a supetmarket and bought lunch- a roll with 4 price tags- one for each ingredient.

Jane managed to find a little tacker to give a kangaroo pin, which he accepted with great excitement, though did struggle to know the difference between a kangaroo and a koala.

As we headed out of town we passed a little old lady who had to be in her eighties wandering though town with backpack and walking poles – destination unknown but wherever it was would take a long time to reach.

Out of town, passing more colourfully painted beehives before entering the Zelenci Nature Park. With a small lake, marshes and a boardwalk it was a little underwhelming.

The size of the mountains were starting to grow again and we came across our first chairlift and small ski slope. It was the start of a long line of lifts which ranged from Poma lifts to 3 person chairlifts. 

The slopes became quite steep as we neared Podkoren which undoubtedly survived on the winter ski season – photos can’t seem to do justice to how steep or high the runs are. You need to crane your neck to see where they start atop the mountain.

Most of them have been groomed for the coming season and one job not to be volunteered for would be mowing them. 

The township was a mix of quaint houses,old and restored, along with ski lodges, apartments and the odd hotel. We sat under an old.

Linden tree and enjoyed our lunch, after battling to remove the multitude of price stickers.

Left town and wandered through farm land where stock included cows, sheep, ducks, horses and a real odd one ostriches.

Thankfully as the weather turned chilly we reached our final destination – Kranjski Gora. It’s huge and looks a bit like a Snowy Mountains town ie designed solely for the winter sports enthusiasts. The rugged mountain backdrop is certainly spectacular.

Wandered through town and found our apartment where we were warmly greeted and offered a little drop of plum schnapps. The place has a strong ski hetitage with the owner being a World Cup medal winner in the 90’s. In more modern times it’s been the base for the Japanese Women’s Skijump team, with 2 actually in the foyer when we arrived.

We again got a spacious apartment with views up the valley into the mountains.

Had been a long day so we cleaned up, planned tomorrow’s walk and perhaps Thursday will be a game of golf. The next few days look ok, Friday for our big descent into the lakes district looks problematic with 60mm of rain. Hopefully we enjoy the same fortune as the last few days with the Bureau getting it totally wrong.

Had a smashing dinner at a local restaurant where the theme of friendly, efficient and engaging service was provided.  It’s common practice at all restaurants for a Gift from The Kitchen in the form of a canapé to be offered.

Had a couple of interesting things happen. The adjacent table had 4 people and a huge Samoyd dog eating with them- can’t have been very enjoyable for them as they took turns to walk him outside because of his barking.

Then when we paid, the card machine had a display where you could nominate a tip amount. It started at 5% went to 25% then other. There was no straight amount  – sounds like too many Yanks are visiting.

Headed home in light rain and this time the pitter patter of light rain was a calming sound and 600am was the next thing I remember.