Thursday 19th September 2024

A watershed day on the trip with no planes, trains or automobiles , just good old Shanks Pony to get us around.

Could not feel anything but fresh after the sleep we had, so it was out the door to one of the recommended cafe’s we would visit today. The Bonbonierre was full of the most delicious looking treats you could imagine and selecting one was difficult indeed. A pistachio cream filled croissant with a capuchino and a little surprise shot glass of melted chocolate was a delicious start to the day.

We wandered the ‘pedestrian only’ streets full of cafes, with crowds flowing out onto the street and patrons doing what Italians do best – watch the world go by. Many had dogs of unknown parentage, along with pure breeds and all welcome patrons.

No time for lingering on the cafe express and we headed for the age old San Marco cafe come book shop, which appeared to be full of many young university students and professionals. Chose not to have a drink and continued to take in the sights and sounds of town, including the barrage of scooters.

Next stop was the Cafe Vergnano which opened in the late 1800’s. Tiny but full of charm and even at 1030 the patrons were drinking coffee, Campari and pilsner, all enjoying the ambiance. Our poison was the yummiest blended iced coffee, which was sadly only served in shot glass portions – pretty sure a schooner glass would be just right.

Not a particularly healthy start to the day, but it was enough calories to power us up the myriad of winding stairs to the Cathedral and Castle sitting high above the tunnel beneath the hill.

The castle was still in amazing condition and we did a walk through the gallery of ancient armaments before crossing the huge courtyard ( now used for theatre productions and exhibitions) before walking the parapet and getting a 360 degree view of the city.

Thankfully we had beaten the crowds off the cruise liner which must have arrived late yesterday or early this morning.

We left the castle via the castle keep and drawbridge lorded over by a couple of famous Captains and protected by a single cannon and headed for the Cathedral.

Getting into the Cathedral with 3-4 bus loads of tourists arriving was a mission impossible, so we picked our way down a steep cobbled road to another old part of town where a single remnant of the past stood attached to an apartment block- thank God for preservation orders.

With the descent finished we headed down to the port passing through what is supposed to be the biggest seaside piazza in Italy. It was amazingly devoid of people, other than the obligatory guided tour.

We wandered along the harbour and past the cruise liner in search of a seafood restaurant on the marina.

Not one materialised in the 30 minute walk, so it was off to the back streets littered with cafes, restaurants and our favourites the osteria’s which are typically family run places with menu’s with limited offerings that change regularly depending on what is available.

A couple of local entrees and a fish and calamari main were washed down with a mix of local beer and wine.

Al Fresco dining was happening everywhere as we picked our way towards home passing a wacky tabaccy shop that was open 24 hours a day,

Kept looking for the Sapori bars famed for coffee roasting and brewing, plus doing great late afternoon apéritif’s with nibbles. We spotted a few likely prospects, if we could get past the next attraction the Trieste Beer Festival which had seemingly popped up overnight, along the side of the Grand Canal, right next to the water polo ‘pool’

Got home late afternoon and cracked a mini bottle of Prosecco and did a bit of planning for next few days.

With darkness impending came another trip to the Grand Canal and we found the water polo or at least a derivative of it played in kayaks.

The beer festival was only just starting to warm up so we headed for Aperotif Countty and managed to find 2 spots for an Aperol and nibbles and then finished off ‘dinner’ with a gelato.

The streets were still packed with families enjoying that traditional time where all generations get together. Given the number of babies around it wasn’t as surprising as expected to walk into a Mum breast feeding ( all tanks out) as she strolled along.

The cruise ship had left so nowhere near as many tourists.

Did another lap of the Beer Festival tents, without embibing, and headed off home after a long days touring.

Another half day here before heading up to Julian Alps to start the walk in a town called Kobarid.