Thursday 19th October 2023

Soulliac to Rouffhilac to Sarlat

A late start today with sunrise about 800 and not due to be briefed until 900, so it was a pack up, leisurely breakfast and a cheerio to the crew we met last night, before a transfer to Rouffhilac.

Starting point was right near the swift flowing Dordogne River which we got a great view of from a bridge decorated for Breast Cancer Week. It also provided a peek at the hill we were to traverse for the first hour or so of the morning through beautiful forests.

Luckily the rain predicted for today did not materialise and walking conditions were perfect. A bit of bird life and got buzzed by a very big bird in the shape of a Police helicopter. We mustn’t have looked too threatening and it continued it’s low sweep of the valley.

We passed some majestic homes, old farm buildings and large farm houses sitting on the mountain tops and in valleys as we ‘undulated “ our way forward.

Worked our way down into Carlux where there was a pretty and well preserved ruin of an old castle.

We spent a fair bit of time on paths cutting in and out of pastures and forests , often passing close to the barns of farms, many full of recently gathered fodder for winter- neat stacking was not a necessity.

Whilst there were still heaps of beautifully preserved houses it was tragic to come across a grand chateau which was razed by Nazi’s in WW2.

Thankfully as part of a national pro to restore many historical buildings, this one is earmarked for renovation.

Lots more forests to negotiate and a log in the middle of one proved an ideal lunch spot. Lunch caused a little bit of brain fade and along with little or no markings we spent a while testing paths to find the right way forward. Even after a 45 minute push up hill to a road we were still uncertain – thankfully the app , not the notes, confirmed our location.

We were soon back in the forest where major logging of small trees was clearly evident by the swathes of denuded slopes and stockpiles of timber destined for a logburner.

As we worked our way out of forests Sarlat came into view and it was very different to towns we had visited , it was as though the world stood still in the 1500’s, with little sign of modern buildings.

That said there were new buildings but built in the old style.

We were soon making our way down a steep roads and avoiding oncoming cars, unlike the car which backed out into traffic and got collected by one just adjacent to us. We didn’t bother to stay and wait for the discussion of who was at fault.

Soon arrived in town and it was magnificent – you were waiting for a knight to ride up the street on a white steed. Even the light outside Gendarmerie had a chandelier.

Aftet 6.5 hours and 19 kilometers in our proverbial saddle we arrived at yet another great hotel, with a lift.

Typical small but well presented room, adjacent to a lovely sunroom looking out into the square.

Left early for dinner and the ambiance of the medieval town was simply amazing. Cobblestone paths, little alleys leading to quaint houses and restaurants and enough restaurants to satisfy the needs of anyone visiting the town to test it’s “food”heaven reputation. A quiet drink in a local bar was a nice entree.

It was no surprise that the food at our restaurant was superb yet different- who could imagine a foie gras spring roll. The fish and pork mains were yummy.

The recommended wine was pretty good as well, along with fabulous service. Interesting one waiter was born and bred here and never travelled- guess that happens when you live in a time cspsule.

Walked home past a few art shops and reckon I found the next cup for The Everest – will need to send PV a note and he can organize a Research Tour for ATC and NRL executive.

Home to check out weather for tomorrow and looks mildly positive with rain not predicted until noon.