Tuesday 17th October 2023

Toulouse Town

Hard to handle these days without a backpack and some dirt under your feet, but there is always good food and drink and today was no exception.

French breakfast, bread, croissant and coffee was plenty on a day where our main activity was a 3 hour food tour of the Victor Hugo Covered Market, which was a 1000 start.

Did a bit of a wander around the area and ran across parents taking kids to school in there various contraptions – there was no line- up here of SUV’s and traffic wardens.

Worked our way over to the starting point and met the lady with the wicker basket who would be our guide.

She was an American and its a sideline for her as she and her American husband both work in jobs associated with aerospace – not unusual in the city which is Capital of the industry.

Five others on the tour, 4 Americans and a German vegan who was unlikely to get fat on what she could consume at the market. The market is huge with one market floor, a second floor full of restaurants and several floors of paid parking atop.

Got a good rundown on the history of the market and one particular qualification people who work with their hands can earn. It’s pretty tough going to earn one and failed participants have to wait a further 4 years before applying. It was called the MOF or Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

It’s a title which goes with an individual and they take it with them wherever they work – it’s not like a a Michelin Star earned by restaurants.

The operator of the boulangerie whete we tasted bread and a chocolate infused croisssnt had one. Both samples were nice and a good starter for the day. We passed several other bakeries where amazing varieties of bread were sold including huge loaves that would last a week. Interestingly law says traditional baguettes must be sold for €1.30. You can charge what you want for others.

Next section was the fresh meat which was sectioned off into animal type and cuts, including every limb, ear and gizzards. Onebshop specialised in offal. Tomahawk steaks sold for near on €70 per kilo.

Next we were off to the pastry outlet which specialised in infusing crystallised violets into their products – it was a delightful taste in crystal form and as an additive in the cakes designed especially for the famous local cycle race – hence the shape of the cake. We sampled a couple more later in the tour.

Next we had a breeze through of the seafood area , which we did not sample. It had a great array of oysters and other fish.

The French are big on cured meets and the next stop was a third generation producer of aged hams. He was a MOF and after assuring himself we were neither South African or Kiwi rugby referees ,after France’s demise the other night.

He proudly talked his way through his process, array of famous customers (including Lionel Messi and King of Spain) , plus skited about being European champion producer.

When a guy can sell ham that has been cured for up to 4 years for €270 a kilo who was not prepared to listen. Some hams sold whole for €1025- can’t imagine taking one of those home from the Xmas raffle.

We got to taste a bit the size of your finger nail and it was delicious.

Next it was off to the cheese producers. What a selection. We were fortunate enough to taste 5 later in the tour.
Their selection and presentation was amazing.

Aforementioned oysters below.

Ran into a few Aussies staying in Toulouse for the entire World Cup – the market had become their favourite haunt.

Next it was outside to fruit and vegetables. The mushrooms were plentiful and even at €22 a kilo had heaps of people carefully running their eye over each one before buying.

The tour culminated with a wine tasting complemented by the fare the guide had collected along the way.

There was a group of 3 men who apparently frequent the bar everyday to eat, drink and solve the problems of the world. I am sure I spied Tony Simon’s twin nearby

Tour over we did a bit more sightseeing, including booking tonight’s restaurant – a 1 Michelin Star joint famous for producing the best version of the local favourite cassoulet.

Nearing home we passed the same old man from yesterday, must be in his 80’s or 90’s.He was sitting in the middle of path on a rickety old chair in a dishevelled state – but still breathing. Today he was in the shade yesterday the sunlight. Must be a pretty lousy existence.

After a little siesta we went in search of the railway station where we leave from tomorrow heading to our next walking destination Soulliac. Looking at weather forecast we are in for wet bums for the next week or so.

Walked through an area where many shops had Sex in the title and footpaths had a few girls standing around looking glamorous – not sure we haven’t been living in the equivalent of Kings Cross.

We found station and then embarked on another canal walk which again meant playing ‘dodge the bike’.

Still not much boating activity just a few moored and a punt mowing edges and pruning trees. The canal experience is still a bit underwhelming- other than an enormous fish mural. A few more of these might enhance the experience.

Ventured off the water into a beautiful park which had been themed for the Rugby World Cup with team plaques around a fountain and a statue of guys doing the kaka- could not help but to join in.

We wandered further through town where they are extending the Metro, with one station directly underneath a monument they have gone to great lengths to protect. The statuen next door looks to have averted the rail route.

Nearing home we got closer to Jane fulfilling her dream of a carousel ride – only to find it closed for the day.

We headed to the bar where we watched the RWC the other night and there is not a sign of televisions, posters or bunting- seems with France out it is now a non event- except the whining about refereeing.

Later in the evening we went to Emerley restaurant and enjoyed the famous cassoulet and a nice little Rose. The place was packed with locals and a few tourists and business people.

Was then home to bed for the last sleep in Toulouse which is a town that seems to have lost a bit of its soul – not too many smiling people, streets are dirty and not much love with buildings- was a bit surprising given it was one of the RWC host cities.