Thursday 12th October 2023

Kirschzaten and Surrounds

After yesterdays hot weather and even hotter forecast for today we almost beat the cook to the breakfast room in search of an early start.

Getting hard to fault any of the meals put before us at the hotels and we again enjoyed a great offering.- they even had a toaster.

We were on the 758 bus headed for the top of the mountain today, which is predominantly ski fields.

It was a 30 minute trip and for most of it we were the only passengers, as the bus went through little hamlets before snaking it’s way towards the top.

We had a little surprise in store when the bus did not go right to the top where the cable car started, we had to work our way across the mountain for 2.5 extra kilometres.

Again a camera cannot do the scenery justice , everywhere you looked there were meadows that were for grazing animals or winter ski runs. It would be a skiers heaven living up here.

A lot of the road runoffs had camper vans set up taking in the views. Some small slopes had their own ski lifts.

We were essentially the only walkers on this trail, that you didn’t want to leave- it was the ultimate alpine walking environment.

Whilst it’s farming and skiing up here the area has a rich history in mining and many of the hills are home to kilometres of mining shafts. Just near the chairlift was a Minimg Museum, which unfortunately was closed. There was a small remnant on the side of the track

Whilst the track dropped off we continued our upward journey in an area dotted with crazy wooden carvings and steel sculptures to honour the spirits of the forest. When I first read that terminology I thought we were in for a morning drink, with some local moonshine.

About 150 metres up a steep track was an observation tower with magnificent views. We took the detour and arrived to find the tower closed – the only view we got was a camper pulling up his duds after morning ablutions.

Even without a 5 storey walk to the top we enjoyed great panoramic views over the whole region. On the way down we came across a huge weather vane which was spinning in winds of about 30kph.

We started our downward journey with some forest paths ducking in and out onto meadows- could even be ski slopes with a bit of imagination.

We often spied hunters stands either secreted in small rough shelters or in tall structures resembling lifesavers towers at the beach. Maybe they had more luck than us in hunting season as fauna has been almost non existent, other than the occasional bird chirp.

Downhill progress was pretty slow , as they managed to throw a few upslopes in through some dark forests, which probably illustrated why it is called the Black Forest.

The forests look to be selectively harvested and there is often clear evidence of recent logging, but we have encountered no loggers, just lots of logs.

Took a rest on a stack of logs after a tortuous walk down a steep hill, washed away with runoff and worsened by mountain bikers who seem to be able to ride down any terrain. One confused one joined us and asked for directions – we didn’t see him again so not sure if he made it home or is still pedalling aimlessly.

It was very slow progress for the next hour or so on forest trails often running at a constant 45 degree slope,with either roots or scree which tested the balance. Signs were almost non exsistent and we used our notes and the App to stay on track. Thankfully some responsible loggers moved signs off felled trees to help guide our way.

We did find one flat bit where they were building a new weather research centre – it gave the muscles a little reprieve.

The notes for the next forest path could not have been more accurate “ zig zag steeply down hill and then very steeply down a gravel path before reaching the top of a meadow”

In the middle of a forest most views were the same, so all the concentration was on the next place to put your foot. It worked marvellously through the zig zags, but stepping off the roots onto the ball bearing like scree was not quite as successful. With no poles, due to the lingering rib injury , balancing was not easy and I took the first tumble on tour.

Aside from a few abrasions and more sore ribs, it was the ego that suffered most, especially when every attempt to right yourself on the scree meant sliding further down the hill.

With a bit of moral support from the poled up leader at the bottom of the hill, I tippytoed my way to the bottom, to take in the magnificent meadow view and apply a little first aid.

We wandered down the meadow path negotiating our way through a string contraption which we think was to deter the cows. Not so sure 5 bits of string work – shit unless they are electrified. There was a second set later, that at least had a side gate.

There was plenty of activity in the valley with local farmers doing their thing and parents on bikes with trolleys on the back going to pick up kids from kindy.

Interesting to see the level of solar power being installed right through the region. There are only a few windmills.

Happy to reach flat ground we entered the outskirts of town where a circus, not your Ringlimg Bros, wete setting up for the weekend. The camping area still had a healthy fill, but local pool was closed. We passed what must have been one of the oldest houses in town, looking for a lot of love.

We ended up back in town at about 100pm and then headed up the road with 60 odd school kids to get a Kransky on a roll for lunch.

A bit bruised and battered I had a siesta and Jane popped off for some shopping – but still remains Xmas decoration free at this point.

Had a pre dinner drink in a back street bar, where Responsible Service of Alcohol may not have been taught yet, looking at one fellows wine glass. Nothing like a pint of Reisling.

From there it was back to the hotel for dinner where we enjoyed rabbit and duck plus a nice bottle of burgundy. I just love the way beer is served here – you are guaranteed of a froth moustache.

Then off to bed to toss and turn thinking about tomorrows walk to Freiburg, a little doddle of 17 Kms to finish off our tour.