Identity Crisis in Strasbourg

Sunday 25th September 2023

In and around Strasbourg and Germany

It was an early start for the ‘proper ‘ tourists today, with no boot walking it was a chance to take in the charm and elegance of Strasbourg and its environs.

Sunday seemed to be a little quieter, well that was until we reached the Cathedral area where both churchgoers and tourists filled the square.

The beautifully attired Church Wardens we’re making sure it was only worshippers and not sightseers who got in, so armed with the map we did a circumlocution of the town in hope of returning to get a glimpse between masses.

By the end of walk there were not many red points of interest on the map we did not get to visit, in a city where identity still remains confused after years of annexation by the French and Germans.

Even street signs bear names in both languages.

The walk around the canal with its locks and barrages and plenty of boat trippers was a great experience.

There were lots of organised tours doing the rounds but we managed to dodge and weave our way around and get an understanding of how the city evolved. Whilst we walked the route many took the oppprtunity to see things by water – a delight we experienced later in the day.

The river had a lock system made for the boat and a separate run right along side, where fish made their way down rapids.

The four pillars around the barrages were the only ones left out of the original 50 or so, which used to fortify the city.

The prettiest area was undoubtedly Little France or a touch of Venice as the locals say. Once a flourishing industrial area with abattoirs and tanneries it’s been transformed into a picture postcard setting.

Story has it that the area was named Little France after the soldiers bought the Germans an unwelcomed ptesent in the form of Syphillis ( forgive spelling it’s one disease I have never contracted) which spread rapidly in the brothels that serviced the manual workers.

The little back streets were full of quaint houses and quirky bars and restaurants , along with a park where I got a photo with one Albert Schweitzer- the Nobel Prize winner in 1952.

We gradually wend our way back to the Cathedral , but with no luck as there was a midday mass. So it was off to the boat dock to tour the city by boat. With 140 crammed on one launch and 15 different languages it was an eclectic gathering.

From the water it gave a different perspective, but we also a lot of information from the audio about the evolution of Strasbourg. The trip took us to the other more modern end of town where the unique buildings housing the European Parliament and International Court of Human Rights were.


Also down there was social housing to die for – the NIMBY’s of Sydney had better beware if it’s used as a model for the Minns Govt.

The boat trip over, it was another failed attempt on the Cathedral, so we decided on a bit of border hopping by taking the tram over the Rhine into what could only be described as an austere precinct in Germany, when compared to Strasbourg. The place was deserted and trying to find a lunch spot proved difficult.

Luckily on our way back we came across a Greek influenced restaurant with a very broad menu. Jane opted for the scampi and I went for what I thought was steak. Can’t imagine the offering ever lived the life of a bovine. We both scratched our head and I dined out on the generous helping of vegetables – chips. Sorrows of the unknown food were drowned out by a very long and cold pilsner.

Back on the trail again and we crossed the Freedom Bridge, which is a two lane construction with separate lanes for walkers and bikes, though not many people observed the directions.

Both sides of the river had huge tracts of parklands with very few people. The Rhine was a little more active with a luxury river cruiser plying it’s way southward to destinations unknown.

Hopped back on the tram, back to Cathedral for another luckless visit. Decided on some souvenir shopping with a wide selection of Brothers Grimm characters in the form of magnets and Xmas decorations. Finished it off with a visit to the gingerbread store to stock up on a few trail treats for the upcoming week.

Brief late afternoon nap was followed by a walk into town for a light snack, which ended up down near the railway station where a French flat bread pizza and a couple of Aperol Spritz finished the day.

On the way home we walked past a pretty amazing sculpture of a girl climbing a flagpole- a little 5 year old tacker walking with us unsuccessfully tried to emulate the feat.

Back home had all intentions to watch Rugby World Cup. but thankfully fell asleep.


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