1st November

How unAustralian, we can’t even get to see the Cup here because none of the betting agencies or racing authorities have a broadcast deal.

Today was markets day, so out on the usual route, now on first name basis with all of the touts. We took a slightly different route to check out the Turkish Bath we are going to on Friday morning before heading off to London in the evening.

Baths look amazing based on promotional films out the front, I am just hoping I don’t get the giant who was massaging the client with such gusto he was nearly coming off the table.

We made our appointments and headed for the Grand Bazaar. Grand is an apt description, it rambles on in a grid fashion with so many shops selling the same products you needed to check the faces to see whether you were retreading old ground.

Gold, silver, ceramics , watches, clothes and any Turkish based trinket you can imagine. Pretty sure each and every designer bag, perfume, clothes or watches were knock offs and assessing the quality of jewelry was anyone guess.

The two stand outs were that there was no prices shown, the hawker would turn the item over and quote a starting price and then the haggling began. Looking at the back of some products there was only a barcode no value, so effectively they were imaginary prices.

We had a bit of fun haggling but probably paid overs, as we found some products cheaper in local markets.

The second thing was most sellers were not particularly aggressive and seemed more interested in drinking tea. The guy running around with a tray full of tea was probably busiest person in the market.

After a few hours we journeyed out into the adjacent streets where more of the locals shop and prices were definitely cheaper. The crowds were even bigger and as usual there was lots of argy bargy as there is no protocol for what side of the footpath or car free road in this instance, that you walked on.

I think I saw the smallest adult ever when a man swished past at just over waist height.

We did a little bit of shopping, with Jane now the expert haggler – think I will call her Marvin after the boxer – then headed down the hill to the Spice Market.

What a fascinating place, much smaller than the Bazaar but selling an amazing array of spices, sweets and food based products.

Prices were a bit more evident and owners more engaging . You could have filled up just on the samples. We bought some wares and were treated to some very tasty pomegranate tea.

It was amuch different experience to the Bazaar.


Armed with our bagful of bargains, at least in our minds, it was off on another tram before heading to local cafe for what proved to be another expensive dining experience. Think we are now convinced it’s time to ‘suck it up Susan’ and just eat and enjoy.

A little rest and we reset the compass to head over to the other side of town with a train ride over the bridge , followed by a funicular ride up into the Beyoğlu and Kasimpada areas.


The huge square with magnificent statue and a quaint ancient tram cloaked the fact this was the trendier part of town. A much younger crowd dressed more modernly and every second shop was high end. The cafe’s were smarter in decor and staff dressed immaculately.

The cafe’s had a selection of sweets to turn you into a diabetic just looking in the window. No window shopping for us , we were in having a late afternoon coffee and cake that were scrumptious.

We walked the length of the avenue side stepping a sea of people heading in the opposite direction and got serenaded by the swag of street performers along the way.

A bit more retail therapy , including a stop at potato food shop with great butter sculpture and we were on the downward trip of the funicular and another tram to the start of the bridge.

The place was packed with camera operators filming a Turkish soapier, so maybe we will end up on TV.

We popped down to an underhang of the bridge full of restaurants with magnificent views of the Bosporus . We popped back up halfway along to be greeted by wall to wall anglers all dangling lines about 50 metres down to the water. Looking at their buckets it was difficult to asses whether it was a catch or spare bait.


Another tram ride to the Sultanate area which was still abuzz with people visiting Sophia Hagia and wandering around the avenue. We now know it was the ancient hippodrome where chariot racing was conducted.

Thete will be different racing there on Sunday when the Istanbul Marathon finishes. It’s the only marathon which crosses two continents , starting in Asia and finishing in Europe.

Off home to sleep and dream of tomorrow’s boat trip on the Bosphorus.


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