14th October

What a day to look forward to, heading up to 3400 feet and then plotting a way down through mountainous terrain – who would not be excited.

Farewelled  the Saffies and it was in the car for a call to the bakers  to buy two huge bags of bread, which was a bit puzzling until after dinner our host said he provides bread to the shepherds in the hills 3 times a week.

We then proceeded on a slalom course,up the hill, on a road about one and a half cars wide, taking hairpin bends at ridiculous speed. We stopped on a 25 degree gradient to pass over some bread whilst Jane and  I looked nervously over the edge. That was followed by a little off-road excursion to point out some track entrances and yes a reversal back to main road with a 2000 feet drop awaiting  and poor steering.

Reached the top and got  out to be greeted by a huge dog resembling a lion. He put his paws on my shoulder, looking for a pat.  The dogs over here have that sad look in their eye and respond marvelously to a simple bit of affection. 

A bread drop off for our host and some unexpected instructions- “ it’s a 2.5 walk up those hills to the ruins where you start todays walk’.

It was a scary walk on a very narrow edge hugging path, made difficult by the scree and it’s stony nature. After just under an hour we arrive at the ruins. Not quite as big as others but interesting all the same.

The goats enjoyed sitting on top of them as if it was a sphinx. I tested out a tomb/ tub and realised they didn’t make them in my size back those days.

At least we knew the way back and made better time heading down. We met the shephetd who was filling the feed bins for the  penned up sheep and goats, eager to eat . 

She opened the gate and it was the charge of the white brigade, surprisingly they hit the feed trough and not one bit of food was eaten. We surmised they were only after a drink as the dam level showed almost zero. That said they were shorn and in good condition.

The trip down hill was shared with goats, a couple of shepherds, trucks , scooters and cars. One bloke on a scooter seemed to be trying to arrange a taxi and one of the cars stopped and offered a ride- we declined both.

Most of the walk had been on the road as access down to the trail was too treacherous to consider. The danger was illustrated by a picture of a 40 year old guy who had been killed recently  where we were considering joining the track because it looked a tad easier.

That was enough to make up our minds to stay on the road for the 7 or 8 Kms left to the bottom.

That sobering moment had us stopping at a well and pulling out the packed lunch – it was a mini green grocer  store and had bread to boot.

It was ironic that we watched the ants gathering up our droppings of bread etc and in 25 minutes time people deep in the valley looked about the same size,

The trip down was an absolute thigh burner and found the creaky bits in the knees Looking over the edge was dizzying and the bottom never seemed to get closer. 

At that height I did solve the mystery of the offshore construction from yesterday – it turned out to be two islands with heaps of boats moored around them.

After 2.5 hours we reached the bottom and Jane plonked on a bus seat- probably one which replaced  the original  one we saw now sitting in shephetds yard up the hill.

It was ironic that after yesterdays tortoise hunt one sidled up to us while on bus seat,

Whilst sitting there a message , not a call to prayer, rang out across town. Given nobody rushed into the streets we presumed it was neither an earthquake nor foreign invasion and added that to the post of unsold mysteries.

In town found a cafe and enjoyed some yummy cakes before strolling through the middle of town with its usual myriad of illegal parkets causing traffic havoc. Jane spied the owner of the local hardware shop

Sound asleep in his chair outside the shop- suppose it was late Friday afternoon.

The town is a mass of construction, primarily driven by the influx of refugees from Ukraine, Russia and other annexed areas looking for a peaceful existence . It’s apparently tripled rents. 

On the way home mine host spotted us trudging along the road and promptly did a u-turn and drove us home. He and is wife have been wonderful hosts.

Afternoon spent doing a little bit of planning for tomorrow which is a flat 30 km walk and things to do in Istanbul , in between sipping

a couple of coldies on tne balcony.

Enjoyed a nice traditional dinner, this time with our first dessert – some yummy sugary thing full of syrup.

Bit of Sydney weather on the way with 6 days of rain forecast. We will have to take each day as it comes, especially when there is some remote mountain walking and river crossing,


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